Eh not really, but I was driving around today and the check engine light came on so I went ahead and did the key dance and thats what popped up. So I popped the hood to do a quick inspection of my engine and found that the hose from the intake to the passenger side valve cover had ripped and almost fallen off of the intake. Could this be causing the code or do I need to dig deeper?
Been kind of busy recently but I got the hose replaced that runs to the intake and I still have the misfire but no check engine light. PCV valve replacement should be getting done tomorrow along with installing a new A/C belt. Might even check out the water pump and such just to see how that stuff is going just because I will have the whole front torn off anyway.
Take it for a drive and try to hold the engine at the rpm is misfiring the most at. As soon as the pcm registers so many misfires it will trip the codes you want. P0300 being a random and a p030? with the ? being the affected cylinder number. Ive had many cars come running rough and a quick test drive doing the above will always get the codes i want. If you had a decent scan tool it would let you look at pids data such as individual cylinders and see the mosfire count.
I would pull at least 2 plugs, 1 from each bank. Check gap and condition. If they got some mileage on them it's possible they're breaking down now. I've also seen people install standard plugs where platinum is required. They never run right and if they do, not for long.
Alright I will go ahead and check some of them. The plugs have just a little over 2,000 miles on them now but I will check 'em anyway. Still gotta pull the front off and put another belt off and check the water pump condition
Well all I got done today was getting the check engine light to come back on! I was a little happy to see it coming back on but dissapointed to see that after the key dance it was still just P0300 in there. I guess I will take it in for a scan.
Alright so tomorrow should be the day stuff gets done (schedule permitting). Gonna pull some plugs, Replace PCV, and via recommendation from another site(http://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0300(scroll to lean misfire)) checking EGR, MAF, and the fuel filter. Hopefully after running through these, one of them is the problem (I'm rooting for one of the cheaper ones).
I've been helping my neighbor with the same random misfire on his 04 300M. Googled "Chrysler random misfire" and it pointed to a bad "auto shutdown relay", crank position sensor, cam position sensor.
Replacing the plugs did nothing. We replaced the ASD relay two days ago and so far so good. If that fails, we'll move on to the crank position sensor, then cam position sensor.
It has been over a week now and the check engine light has not come on. Looks like the ASD relay solved the "random misfire" code.
The best part of the "fix" is that it didn't cost anything since all we did was swap out the radiator fan relay for the ASD relay. The plugs that he replaced was his idea and was against my recommendation.
Alright so I changed the PCV and no change and I also yanked the plugs out. Half of them have some rust on it (not the tip or threads, I assume it spread from the walls of the inside of the plugs) and pretty much all of them had some oil on the threads and some burnt on the tips (the worst one were from the left side). So I looked it up in the Chilton and it says its a sign of worn down piston rings....is this true? Am I looking at tearing her down and slapping in new rings?
Can you post a pic? Kinda hard to tell what's going on from your description. There shouldn't be rust on the plugs, but the porcelain can be stained/dirty a rusty color. Are you sure it's oil and not just carbon mixed with some unburnt fuel from misfiring? Is the ground electrode clean but worn? If it's worn it's hard to tell because the cylinder isn't firing properly. If you had oil on the plugs you would most likely see blue smoke from the tailpipe anyway. Chilton is like WebMD. Don't trust either.
Well my phone doesnt like connecting with my computer so right now I have no pics. But the part that is rusty is the part that the socket fits on to twist the plug out. I am pretty sure it is oil because the threads were wet with it along with some close to the firing tip. I am gonna be running a compression text in the next few days. As far as I am concerned I have no smokes of any color....
If there's an engine problem, it is much more likely to be bad valve stem seals than bad rings, especially if you have the 2.7 (you don't say which engine you have).
Agree with Sycoholic - no aftermarket manuals. If all it mentions is rings, then that's an example of why.
I'd run some tests to prove rings before doing all that work (possibly for nothing). What's the maintenance history (mainly oil and filter change) on the engine?
Well, here is my story. It all started 4 months ago. engine light and misfire. I did all the obvious, coils, plugs, computer, cleaned injectors, no help. I fought the thing all winter. Problem would come and go. Random misfires (p0300, P030x, P035x), the codes listed at times 12 different codes. They would come and go. The problem would move around. I started getting desperate. The battery was weak, so I changed it thinking it would cause a weak spark. Checked fuel pressure. It was OK. Vacuum leaks. Fixed them all. Nothing helped. Then the other night I was reading the Haynes manual in a completely different section... It mentioned the one thing that I had missed. (read on...)
It was late, so I called it quits for the night. I went to the shower smelling like I has spilled the gas can on myself. I was so frusterated. I know I am not that smart, but I AM smarter than a danged car... I thought to myself. So I started thinking about it. What could cause a random problem that comes and goes? It has to be something COMMON to all the COILS. I started thinking about how the voltage gets to the coils to cause the spark. Battery positive to fuse to ASD relay to coil positive to PMC to ground... what??? ASD RELAY?!?!? Here is the ONE THING that is common to all coils, and if it is weak or the contact is worn can cause a weak spark by not supplying enough power to the coils... It is not mentioned as an integral part of the ignition circuit. It is not out in the open where it tcan be easily seen. Out of sight out of mind. So I changed it. The misfire immediately went away. Within 2 hours the light went out. It has more power than it had in ages. Mileage better, too (thanks to the fixed vaccuum leaks no doubt.). CHEAP FIX that costed me a small fortune!!! ASD relay in the engine compartment fuse box. Tell all your friends!!! ASD RELAY!!!!"
I always tell people that the ASD relay seems to be the first thing people suspect, yet it almost never is the problem. Certainly not true in your case.
I'd guess your tube seals are leaking, but the Rusty on the out side of the plugs indicates that is not it...
But, rust does indicate excessive moisture. This would cause miss fires and poor burn conditions. Poor burn conditions would look like black wet deposits on the plugs, and could smell of oil. Couple that with possibly slightly loose plugs, and I'd expect to see what you see. Was this engine exposed to the elements any time? Is this a junk yard engine?
Replace your plugs, replace your plug wires (boots), and make sure your cold are firmly attached. I'd use a good coating of dielectric grease on everything that is an electrical connection too.
Yeah it beats me. When I bought the car the tubes were rusted but I don't remember there being any rust on the plugs but then again I didnt pay much attention to it.
Alright well I decided to run a compression test on the engine and everything checked out just fine. So could this all have just been a matter of not tightening the plugs all the way or something?
I'd say it was a combination of age and rust and maybe not being tight... Put new factory type plugs in it, use plenty of dielectric grease on the boots (or replace and use grease too), put a little grease on the bottom of the coil mating surface where it connects to the valve cover, and then see what happens from there.
Alright well I forgot to get some dielectric grease but right now it still does the funky shakey idle. If its still there after i put on the grease where should I go next? EGR? Do I have to clear the codes for the engine to run fine (apparently some cars will still run funky even though you fixed the problem but didnt clear the codes, just not sure if this includes my car)?
Also started doing some more in depth research and there were a few things that popped up that peaked my interest....
In this thread (http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=170214) posts number nine, eleven, twenty, twenty-one. Post #9 being the bolded section in the quotes, #11 for the oil filled intake reference (my old PCV was rather wet and so was the tube behind it, #20 for the MAP sensor PCM reference (still have the 2.7 PCM but it should not cause a problem), and #21 for the Lucas fuel injector cleaner reference.
I figured I would probably pull off the intake and check to see if there is and how much oil is in it. Also thinking maybe I should pit some lucas in the tank just because it is rather inexpensive but I'm not a big fan of putting adatives in my tank.
This whole fiasco is a big pain in my side because I really need something fuel efficient to drive to and from work (making 7.50 an hour at Bk and working five days a week which is stressful enough as it is) but having issues with this car and then having to shell out more money each week to put gas in my 350 Camaro which is only getting 6 mpg because of a big exhaust leak is not helping. I also drive my little brother to and from school everyday.
I guess tomorrow I will work on pulling the plenum off (I have seen a thread in the past that had something about making a catch can for the oil that came out the plenum, does anyone have the link for that) and then finding a different job (hopefully in automotive ).
So any advice on the different plans I have to try for the car?
So I pulled the plenum and got a little bit of oil to come out and so I bolted it all back up and started it and it still had the misfire. So today I went ahead and bought some lucas so we shall see how that works out....
Have been running Lucas maybe 40 miles and no difference yet. I was thinking about running seafoam through this baby. Anyone got a how to on which vacuum line to use and how to let the engine "drink" it up? I was just thinking about running it through the vac lines unless someone else thinks I should put it in other places too....
Use the small plastic elbow on top of the plenum just in front of the throttle body. Don't let it go in too fast or you can hydrolock the engine (cylinders with too much uncompressible liquid) - can cause serious damage.
Just let that suck it out of a cup then but in little bursts? Should I have someone keep the revs up at like 1.5-2k just so it does not stall out? Also I never asked but what is the normal compression these cars should have per cylinder?
You do eventually want to let it stall out and then let it sit for several minutes - that's to give it wet exposure for a few minutes to dissolve stuff. Then start it up and run it until it clears up.
Best to time this with an oil change because stuff will release and find its way into the crankcase during the cleanout. Also should replace spark plugs afterwards too because they can get fouled - but you could just wait on that and see if they do.
I Know that you need to shut it down for about five minutes or so but I thought that letting it stall on its own is not the best but to instead shut it off after you finish feeding it.
I am getting close enough to an oil change as it is and I still have the box with my old plugs in it so I can just throw those back in during the process....anything else peva?
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