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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-05-2012, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Hard Engine start when hot--- anyone else?

Hey guys just tossing this out there... I've got a 2.7 with 280 000+ KM and as of late I've been having problems starting. After driving around for a bit (warm days) (car operates just under half way mark on temp) I turn off the car came back a few min later and it has a hard start. All electrical comes on, tries to crank once or twice then stops (electrical still on)

Usually on the second try it goes. when it's a cold start or not that warm it goes on first try. No service codes, car seems to be fine exept for that.

Any suggestions?
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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-05-2012, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wishihadacharger View Post
...tries to crank once or twice then stops (electrical still on)...
I'll assume you mean the starter spins the engine, but it won't run on its own? Sounds like crank sensor (could be cam sensor also but probably crank sensor). Any codes? Bad sensors often times don't set codes.

Whatever you do, if you replace sensors: OEM ONLY!

If that's your problem, coincidentally, the crank sensor suddenly went out on my 2.7 with 250+k miles on it about a mongth ago. Coincidence . . .
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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-05-2012, 09:10 PM
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Mine was actually a faulty fuel line that I only found out after my headgasket blew!
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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-05-2012, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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it cranks but chugs then the stater just stops as though the battery is dead.. Replaced the cam & crank sensors about 2 years ago..It's not throwing any codes... just cleaned up the battery terminals and connectors tonight and loaded some dielectric grease on them gonna see how that fairs...

I'll keep you guys posted.
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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-05-2012, 09:30 PM
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It's the cluster!
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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-05-2012, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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What does the cluster have to do with it? I just put a new one in from a 300
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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wishihadacharger View Post
...Replaced the cam & crank sensors about 2 years ago..
I *have* to ask - OEM or aftermarket?

Quote:
It's not throwing any codes...
Doesn't mean a sensor isn't bad.

Last edited by peva; 09-06-2012 at 06:44 AM.
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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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My bad it was the cam sensor I changed. Got from dealer so I'm assumuming OEM. As for the crank sensor would I have the same symptoms when the engine is cold? Again it only happens when ive Ben driving for a bit.
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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-10-2012, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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So out driving today and it happened again. Had to jump the car, took it in got the system checked and the battery was toast. Odd cause I just bought it about a year and half ago. Any ways good thing for warranties.
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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-14-2012, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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So today I noticed that my car was a little slow to start again.. (same symptoms as before) did a small test turned on everything I could think of in the car at idle and noticed that the voltage was only 12.1, I also have a guage that plugs into the lighter and notifies me if it's bat or alt... the alt light was flickering... my question is 12.1 too low for the alt? (indicating a fail?)
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post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 09:23 AM
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Yes, that is a weak alternator.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using AutoGuide.Com Free App
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post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 10:08 AM
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Might be bad fuslible link, bad alternator, or something else. Have alternator tested off car.
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post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Had it tested this morning on car with massive load , ( stereo 1000w &1200 w amps) ac,rear defrost. Pretty much anything that could be turned on and draw power and it passed with flying colors. The guy that tested it noticed that the engine ground fed off of the ground post at strut and not off the bat so he suggested that I run a direct ground. Did that and bam voltage jumped to 14. Gonna keep an eye on it for a bit and clean up the post. Was also thinking of running another ground to the chassis to the strut mount.
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post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wishihadacharger View Post
The guy that tested it noticed that the engine ground fed off of the ground post at strut and not off the bat so he suggested that I run a direct ground. Did that and bam voltage jumped to 14. Gonna keep an eye on it for a bit and clean up the post. Was also thinking of running another ground to the chassis to the strut mount.
The ground is basically running straight off the battery's negative. There is a cable going from the negative post to the strut post and another cable going from the strut post to somewhere else. If the voltage changed, just by hooking directly to the battery, then it seems the jumper post and possibly the eyelets need a thorough cleaning.
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post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 08:11 PM
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Likely the braided ground straps from the body to the engine block are torn in half. The neg. jump post grounds to the body at the strut, and the braided engine ground strap connects to the body near the neg. jump post to the block.

Some years have the braided engine ground strap on both sides, some just on the passenger side.

Last edited by peva; 09-15-2012 at 08:13 PM.
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