Door/Window Trim - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 1 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-01-2012, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Modder
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Cheyenne, WY
Posts: 631
Feedback: 0 / 50%
               
Door/Window Trim

How do you remove the surrounding rubber for the back glass? Mine is cut, in several places, and needs replacing.

For the front doors, it looks like mine are bent, but I am not sure if it is the door or the molding. See pictures (check out the weather ). I was wondering if anyone else experienced this and if so had some suggestions.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCN2297.JPG (131.6 KB, 46 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN2298.JPG (174.1 KB, 42 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN2299.jpg (47.9 KB, 42 views)
BatCaveTrep is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-01-2012, 12:47 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Virginia, U.S.
Posts: 14,192
Feedback: 4 / 83%
                     
The back glass is a different part number for the Intrepid, but if it's made like the one in the Concorde and M, the rubber is permanently bonded to the glass. I do believe that auto glass shops can slice it off flush and glue some universal aftermarket stripping on there, but it may look like crap and almost certainly will be obviously not the factory rubber.

When I just recently restored the paint and trim on my '98 Concorde, there were a couple of bad places on the rear window rubber. I cut a whole rear window out of a junker and paid a glass shop to swap them out (new ones are $400-$600 just for the glass I'm told!). That will probably be the only way to get a factory-looking job without breaking the bank. I will say that it waw a pain cutting the one out since I never had done it and didn't have professional tools for that - no biggie for someone who works for a shop - maybe you know someone who would do that for you if you pay them for their time?

As far as the door moldings - it's just the moldings bent. Make sure all their screws are in. They probably are, and it might be best to remove the molding part completely and straighten them out by hand - they are easy to bend (which is why they are bent (just from slamming the doors a few hundred times over the years). They can be tricky to get off and on - rears are worse than the fronts, but it's probably only the fronts that need tweaking anyway. You might not have to totally remove - just get enough screws out that you can pull them away from the door a little to try to straighten them.

You might still talk to a shop about aftermarket stripping to glue on, but you;re really going to have to decide if you're goning to be happy with the results.


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs
peva is offline  
post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-01-2012, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Modder
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Cheyenne, WY
Posts: 631
Feedback: 0 / 50%
               
Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
The back glass is a different part number for the Intrepid, but if it's made like the one in the Concorde and M, the rubber is permanently bonded to the glass. I do believe that auto glass shops can slice it off flush and glue some universal aftermarket stripping on there, but it may look like crap and almost certainly will be obviously not the factory rubber.
After a closer look, it's like other LHs, and that sucks. I wonder what causes the stripping to rip and if it is preventable.

Quote:
When I just recently restored the paint and trim on my '98 Concorde, there were a couple of bad places on the rear window rubber. I cut a whole rear window out of a junker and paid a glass shop to swap them out (new ones are $400-$600 just for the glass I'm told!). That will probably be the only way to get a factory-looking job without breaking the bank. I will say that it waw a pain cutting the one out since I never had done it and didn't have professional tools for that - no biggie for someone who works for a shop - maybe you know someone who would do that for you if you pay them for their time?
I think I'm going to brainstorm and try something simplier. If all else fails, maybe a tree branch will give the window a "kiss". lol

Quote:
As far as the door moldings - it's just the moldings bent. Make sure all their screws are in. They probably are, and it might be best to remove the molding part completely and straighten them out by hand - they are easy to bend (which is why they are bent (just from slamming the doors a few hundred times over the years). They can be tricky to get off and on - rears are worse than the fronts, but it's probably only the fronts that need tweaking anyway. You might not have to totally remove - just get enough screws out that you can pull them away from the door a little to try to straighten them.
Glad to know it is something minor. Since I'm taking them off, I may look into refinishing them. Any tips?
BatCaveTrep is offline  
post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-01-2012, 08:53 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
Squilliam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Greater Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 15,038
Feedback: 2 / 100%
                     
Huh, I've never seen that moulding rip before. Not even on abused ones. Thats different.
Squilliam is offline  
post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-02-2012, 12:09 AM
I hit shit with sticks!


 
Daytrepper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Zebulon, NC
Posts: 34,200
Feedback: 20 / 100%
                     
Garage
Ran right into this mess on my Intrepid.

That trim on the doors has to be removed as a "window frame" assembly. All of that rubber and trim comes off in an one piece. First, you have to remove the window glass, and all the weatherstripping around the window, then there are several studs and screws that stick thru the door, with nuts on them that have to be removed, just below the window level on the door frame. You will see all the fasteners once you pull all the door panels off and remove the glass.

The "raised" part you see is not uncommon. After years in the elements they tend to warp and stick out a bit. Your door is not bent, the window frame assy is.

The whole mess is only available as an assembly, as far as the dealer is concerned, if it hasnt been discontinued. Other than that, find a car at the yard with good window frames, and you'll be good. Likely they will need to be repainted, they are prone to fading....but if the car has been garaged, the rubber wont be a mess. There is a slight difference in 01+ frames, but it is hardly noticeable, and seems to be the better quality and easier to locate in good condition in the yard.

As far as the rear glass, the weatherstripping/rubber is glued in with the window. Have to cut and pull the glass basically. It was included with the glass from Dodge as of 06, but also available in the aftermarket....not sure what the situation is now.

The southern sun is a bitch on rubber.


1998 Dodge Intrepid
Ram Logistics Director; Danbo Truck & Diesel, Inc.
Proud sponsor of Just Junk It, LLC
President, Danbo Drumming Ventures, GmbH; Danbo-On-Drums

Last edited by Daytrepper; 10-02-2012 at 12:18 AM.
Daytrepper is offline  
post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-02-2012, 07:52 AM
Intrepid Pro
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Virginia, U.S.
Posts: 14,192
Feedback: 4 / 83%
                     
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daytrepper View Post
Ran right into this mess on my Intrepid.

That trim on the doors has to be removed as a "window frame" assembly. All of that rubber and trim comes off in an one piece. First, you have to remove the window glass, and all the weatherstripping around the window, then there are several studs and screws that stick thru the door, with nuts on them that have to be removed, just below the window level on the door frame. You will see all the fasteners once you pull all the door panels off and remove the glass.
I think other than the outer skin, the front doors on the Intrepid are the same as the Concorde and 300M. If so, the glass does not need to come out - all the screws along the lower horizontal strip are accessible with the glass in place. The weatherstripping has that black goey stuff holding them to the door - that can be a mess. On the rears - yeah - the glass and the rear track have to come out - a very precise order has to be followed as it all fits like a puzzle - go in the wrong order and things jam up - the key is to go slow with a lot of patience and back up when you need to to change the order in which the pieces are being moved around/extracted - if doing more then one, you'll learn the pattern - BTDT. That's why I said the fronts are a lot easier than the rears.

Quote:
The whole mess is only available as an assembly, as far as the dealer is concerned, if it hasnt been discontinued.
I priced them new a few years ago, and they were typically in the $125 to $175 each range - likely higher now *if* as you say they are even available. Was moot then as I wasn't going to put several hundred dollars into those.

Quote:
Other than that, find a car at the yard with good window frames, and you'll be good. Likely they will need to be repainted, they are prone to fading....but if the car has been garaged, the rubber wont be a mess. There is a slight difference in 01+ frames, but it is hardly noticeable, and seems to be the better quality and easier to locate in good condition in the yard.
Dan - are you speaking of your '98? I know that on the Concordes, the rubber they used that year was inferior and came to pieces - not so on 99's and up. I did what you said recently in restoring my '98 - hand picked good ones from 99's from salvage yards - that way the rubber edging is in good shape. I also found that you can restore the finish on those by scrubbing real good with Back to Black and Mr. Clean rubbing pads. They all cleaned up beautifully, and there was no damage or wear thru of the original black finish.

Quote:
As far as the rear glass, the weatherstripping/rubber is glued in with the window. Have to cut and pull the glass basically. It was included with the glass from Dodge as of 06, but also available in the aftermarket....not sure what the situation is now.

The southern sun is a bitch on rubber.
Yeah - I attributed that to the low quality rubber they used on the '98 MY - I could be wrong about that, but is based on what I've consistently seen in salvage yards on '98 vs. '99 and up. Like I said earlier - the replacement window used to be $400 to $600, OEM and aftermarket, plus install labor! I don't know what they go for now. AFAIK, the rubber is not available separately (other than "universal" aftermarket strips that can be glued in place - really look like crap even from a distance).

Here are photos from my recent restore on my '98. I replaced the rear window with one I cut out of a junker - see before and after in first two photos. I had a professional glass company do the R&R (remove before painting, replace after painting) of the rear window for $125. Also, I replaced all 4 door window-frame moldings with ones hand picked from 99's in the salvage yard purely because of the rubber edging problems on the 98's (see 3rd photo - all 4 moldings were that bad). The finish on all cleaned up beautifully with Mr. Clean sponges and Back to Black. I prefer the appearance of the '98-'99 window moldings, and was glad to be able to restore those well and easily with the Mr. Clean and Back to Black. I don't have any close-ups of the window moldings, but the last 2 photos show the overall result:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 07 - Before - rear window molding closeup.JPG (109.8 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg 08 - After - rear window molding.jpg (85.0 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg 05 - Before - door molding edging.jpg (123.2 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg 02 - Finished - front shot reduced.jpg (132.9 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg 03 - Finished - rear shot reduced.jpg (105.4 KB, 21 views)


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs
peva is offline  
post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-02-2012, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Modder
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Cheyenne, WY
Posts: 631
Feedback: 0 / 50%
               
The rear molding is completely different. Your's just wraps around with the window, while the Intrepid's has to be all funky. I'm going to try a simple solution, since the molding isn't chewed up and has 3 little tears. If that doesn't work, I'm sure a tree branch will "fix" it for me. lol

In regards to door and trunk weatherstripping, is there a certain year or car I should look at? I'm planning a Knoxville yard trip. Is there such a thing as non-shrinking weatherstripping?
BatCaveTrep is offline  
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-02-2012, 12:32 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Virginia, U.S.
Posts: 14,192
Feedback: 4 / 83%
                     
Quote:
Originally Posted by BatCaveTrep View Post
The rear molding is completely different. Your's just wraps around with the window, while the Intrepid's has to be all funky...
Ahh - OK. I assumed they were similar.
peva is offline  
post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-06-2012, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Modder
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Cheyenne, WY
Posts: 631
Feedback: 0 / 50%
               
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daytrepper View Post
That trim on the doors has to be removed as a "window frame" assembly. All of that rubber and trim comes off in an one piece.

The southern sun is a bitch on rubber.
If you look at Peva's 3rd picture, it shows some rubber hanging down. Is that what you are referring to as being one with the trim? How do the trims differ from the years? Is there any modifications needed? I plan on removing the trim, Monday, since rain is expected and I don't know if there will be leakage with them removed. Any tips on repainting them?
BatCaveTrep is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Member names may only be composed of alpha-numeric characters. (A-Z and 0-9)

!!ATTENTION ADVERTISERS!! If you intend on advertising anything on this forum, whatsoever, you are required to first contact us here . Additionaly, we do NOT allow BUSINESS NAMES unless you are an Authorized Vendor. If you own a business, and want to do sales on this site via posting or private message, you will need to follow the rules. Shops, Stores, Distributors, Group Buys without being authorized will see your account terminated.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome