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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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Tie rod bushings

Found out yesterday that I need to replace the tie rod bushings on my 99 ES. It has 251K miles and these are the original bushings still in there. The service shop down the street quoted me a price of $540 that includes replacing the bushings and a four wheel alignment. Tech told me almost all of the cost is labor since the parts are very inexpensive. Now I have done various work on my car, (replaced brake calipers, pads, rotors, replaced radiator cooling fans, replaced wheel studs, drilled out broken studs), but never anything requiring removal of wiper blades and cowling. I have read through the forum and am deciding if it is a project I can complete on a Saturday afternoon. Any thoughts or suggestions?
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 08:53 AM
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You can easily start and finish on a Saturday afternoon.

There is an excellent how-to on it: Step by Step Inner Tie Rod Bushing for 300M / Special

There is, absolutely, no reason to pay $540 to have this done.
The parts should be less than $25.

Last edited by tgs; 10-10-2012 at 09:08 AM.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 09:42 AM
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Found out yesterday that I need to replace the tie rod bushings on my 99 ES. It has 251K miles and these are the original bushings still in there. The service shop down the street quoted me a price of $540 that includes replacing the bushings and a four wheel alignment. Tech told me almost all of the cost is labor since the parts are very inexpensive. Now I have done various work on my car, (replaced brake calipers, pads, rotors, replaced radiator cooling fans, replaced wheel studs, drilled out broken studs), but never anything requiring removal of wiper blades and cowling. I have read through the forum and am deciding if it is a project I can complete on a Saturday afternoon. Any thoughts or suggestions?
There is no need for an alignment if replacing the inner bushings. It also helps to have one front wheel off the ground, replace that bushing last, so you have free movement of the wheel. Removing the cowl and wipers, is just some screws, nuts and bolts. Although not require, but for ease, you may want to remove the plenum.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 10:07 AM
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Really not that hard to do. Just did mine a week or so back. The cowl & cross member come off pretty easily. I did not have to raise the car or remove the plenum. Just turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, and that provides easy access to both bolts. Replace one at a time, so there is always one bolt in place (although you have to loosen to free the retainer up). Just make sure you replace the washer, bracket & retainer in the right order. Also, you may want to have someone there when you replace each of the bolts to nudge the steering wheel just a bit to properly center the bolt so it threads in smoothly. Don't want to cross thread. Then torque 'em up properly and you are good to go.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Any chance I can get that part number for the bushings and where I can purchase it and also have it by Saturday. Thanks.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 01:18 PM
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Not sure of the part number, but you can get a kit pretty easily at Advance Auto..includes bushings, retainer, etc. I'd go with the Moog set. The old bushings might be a bit of a pain to remove since they are pressed in. I just used a pair of slip-joint pliers to break them apart. The new ones are two-piece and fit in from either side,with the metal sleeve through the middle. Also, when you tighten the bolts, be sure the rubber boot on the rack doesn't get caught up behind the washer.
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 02:57 PM
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MOOG Part # K7408

For $540 I'll fly up and fix it for you, parts included.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Picked up Napa equivalent to the Moog part and will install on Sat. I will certainly post any questions or pleas for help if need be. Thanks again for the suggestions.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 09:47 PM
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dont even have to remove the cowl,, turn the wheel all the way to the left,, remove the air box,, look!! theres the bolts,, ONE AT A TIME,,, 30-45 mins
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 01:02 AM
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What is the NAPA number you got?
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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Napa part #274-9338
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 11:12 AM
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The worst part is removing the old stuff.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 11:40 AM
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Thanks - I just ordered the K7408 equivalent, he charged me like $14 for them.
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDodge View Post
dont even have to remove the cowl,, turn the wheel all the way to the left,, remove the air box,, look!! theres the bolts,, ONE AT A TIME,,, 30-45 mins
Doctor, Doctor, Doctor, you do mean all the way to the right, don't you?

Last edited by tgs; 10-12-2012 at 04:55 PM.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 12:27 PM
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I would suggest laying a rag or cloth of some kind under the inner tie rod bolts.If you drop something or it falls out it will want to migrate down the transmission housing and its not easy to reach them there.
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