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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Electrical Problem

Long story short: Fixed my cluster problem, which was my fault. Fixed my starting problem, which had to do with some "Locktronic" thing that was spliced in. After fixing that, everything worked, but now nothing works. No interior lights turn on, no dinging when key is left in ignition, absolutely nothing...except the oil light turns on when the key is turned. At first I thought dead battery, but hooking up jumper cables and still nothing turns on. I tested the battery with a multimeter and it read the amps being at 4 (I'll double check that later), so that tells me dead battery. Any input? Only other electrical, that I did, was t-tap the analog clock.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 04:08 PM
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did you run amp meter inline for testing current flow? could there be some primary fuse or fuses in the engine compartment that went bad ? what about voltage at the fuses in block inside door? t-tap do you mean you ran pwr off it to other item? just trying to throw options to you.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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did you run amp meter inline for testing current flow? could there be some primary fuse or fuses in the engine compartment that went bad ? what about voltage at the fuses in block inside door? t-tap do you mean you ran pwr off it to other item? just trying to throw options to you.
Instead of retesting the battery, I threw a new one and still no progress. I have checked the dash fuses and haven't found a bad one...yet. The PDC fuses look good, but haven't really looked at them. I rechecked harness connections, since I had pulled the dash, and they are all seated. I rechecked the jumper post connections and they are fine. However, when reattaching the ground, there is no spark and the horn doesn't make a sound. Yeah, I simply tapped into the power, illumination and ground wires.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 05:51 PM
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Did you check the connection at the right inner fender, near the strut tower? That might be loose?
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Did you check the connection at the right inner fender, near the strut tower? That might be loose?
How are you referring to "right"? I always refer to passenger as the right side, but that's just me. The dash is "getting" power, because the oil light comes on when you turn the ignition. However, nothing else works and I am completely lost now.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 06:43 PM
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Yes, right = passenger side.

I would start the wiggle tests and see if you can raise something along the way where you took things apart.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 08:32 PM
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I think you might have missed the plug/s in the back of the cluster I did that at 4Am when changing the evap. after staying up working on it for 20 hours! Mine did the same thing you have to put the cluster straight in or they wont plug in properly! Try turning on the headlights if they don't work its a ground problem!
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, right = passenger side.

I would start the wiggle tests and see if you can raise something along the way where you took things apart.
That's the odd part; everything was working and then it wasn't. I wasn't sitting in the car and everything shut off. One day, it works, the next it doesn't.

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I think you might have missed the plug/s in the back of the cluster I did that at 4Am when changing the evap. after staying up working on it for 20 hours! Mine did the same thing you have to put the cluster straight in or they wont plug in properly! Try turning on the headlights if they don't work its a ground problem!
That was my initial cluster problem. I had to swap the dash harness and forgot to put the cluster plugs in their holders. I don't understand how it can be a ground issue when the cluster is getting power by the indication of the oil light when turning the key, but nothing else (ding noise, courtesy lights, radio, other cluster lights, atc, horn honk when reconnecting the ground to the strut tower) has power.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 09:30 PM
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Grounds do funny things when you have a bad connection! I think there is a ground under the dash near the fuse panel! You could also have a pinched wire! (it happens to the best of us) also check the fuses with a meter and check for corrosion on the contact! Don't jump around I would check and clean all the grounds starting at the battery and coat with die-electric grease!
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 09:32 PM
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Remember power is lazy it will take the path of least resistance!
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 10:50 PM
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The low oil pressure light will work fine even if there is no ground at all to the cluster. The cluster provides +12V to one side of the LED, and the ground is provided thru the wire to the oil pressure switch - ground is provided by the engine block. No computers are involved in running that LED - it is a hardwired function with the oil pressure switch turning it on by grounding the single wire.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-13-2012, 12:41 AM
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The low oil pressure light will work fine even if there is no ground at all to the cluster. The cluster provides +12V to one side of the LED, and the ground is provided thru the wire to the oil pressure switch - ground is provided by the engine block. No computers are involved in running that LED - it is a hardwired function with the oil pressure switch turning it on by grounding the single wire.
There is your sign. If the oil light is the only thing on then ground is probably the issue. Double check the two ground posts that the dash harness goes to by where the gas pedal is under the dash. You said yourself the battery was dead, so that should explain the no spark on reconnecting the ground under the hood, and if you forgot the dash grounds that would explain everything else.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-13-2012, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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The low oil pressure light will work fine even if there is no ground at all to the cluster. The cluster provides +12V to one side of the LED, and the ground is provided thru the wire to the oil pressure switch - ground is provided by the engine block. No computers are involved in running that LED - it is a hardwired function with the oil pressure switch turning it on by grounding the single wire.
Of course it does... That explains a lot now. It's like the door locks; they won't work unless both the fronts are plugged in. Sheesh!

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There is your sign. If the oil light is the only thing on then ground is probably the issue. Double check the two ground posts that the dash harness goes to by where the gas pedal is under the dash. You said yourself the battery was dead, so that should explain the no spark on reconnecting the ground under the hood, and if you forgot the dash grounds that would explain everything else.
I've double checked the grounds by the gas pedal. I have also tried a new battery and still no luck. I have music, so the wiggle test will begin soon.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-13-2012, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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Resolved. After much wiggling, nothing changed, so I started repressing connections together and everything started working. Not sure if it was a loose connection or a "wiggle" caused it. Back to making progress.

Last edited by BatCaveTrep; 11-13-2012 at 06:27 PM. Reason: spelling correction
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-13-2012, 06:23 PM
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