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post #31 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-06-2013, 10:17 PM
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ATF+4 from all MFG must meet the Chrysler spec. Walmart has ATF+ 4 for the best $$ at least in NJ.
If the seller is so confident they have never had a failure, how do they explain selling so many reman parts that Chrysler could not get to last "forever" From my experiance and not really being able to find the "smoking gun" evidence of what fails, OEM new solenoid & OEM reman valve body are the patrs of choice..
The DTC is set if one of flee pressure switches are open or closed at the wrong time in a given gear.


From Alldata causes for 841

Last edited by Firem; 05-07-2013 at 07:22 AM.
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post #32 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 07:41 PM
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Flyingboat, could you update us on how your second solenoid replacement and reman valve body turned out?

I’m late to this thread however I have comments that hopefully will help other readers. It’s a long post.

P0841 relates to the solenoid. P1776 relates to either the solenoid or valve body. You had both codes and the solenoid is the common element. I suspect that your first replacement solenoid was bad. I know that TransmissionPartsUSA told you they have never shipped a bad one. However, “never” is a very strong word to use.

The reason your shop advised you to replace the valve body was because they assumed that the first replacement solenoid was good and since you have a P1776 then it must be the valve body that is causing the P1776. Valid logic assuming the solenoid is good. The question remains as to whether the first replacement solenoid was in fact good or bad.

BTW, when your shop installed the first replacement solenoid pack did they use a new solenoid pack filter/screen? Presumably the unit from TransmissionPartsUSA came with one. A screen with a faulty seal can cause the codes you experienced. If your original screen was reused by mistake it could account for the first replacement solenoid failing.

The fact that you are putting on a reman valve body and a second replacement solenoid means you are covering your bases and have likely solved your P1776/P0841 issue. However, you’ll never know whether it was the first replacement solenoid that was bad or not.

In the case of a P1776, because of the possibility of the issue being the solenoid or the valve body, and because the labour to change both is the same as the labour to change only one or the other, most people replace both to be sure.

All of that talk is a complete load of rubbish!! All and i mean all of the a606 solenoid blocks and valve bodys our company sells never come back period. Its one of our biggest selling products and all of that build date talk is just that talk.
Chrysler had a reason for advising that if you experience a P1776 then a solenoid within the cited date code range should be changed. If Chrysler had a reason for recommending this then why take a chance? Personally I would make sure that a replacement solenoid does not fall within the cited date code range. On the other hand, just because your solenoid falls later in time doesn’t mean it is not the solenoid that is at fault. I replaced a solenoid that was outside the date range and it solved my P1776. I did not replace the valve body which is what Chrysler’s bulletin recommended. I have read other similar examples of solenoids outside the date code range still being the problem.

Originally Posted by peva View Post
Does what the seller is saying contradict the fact that we definitely see a lot more failures of the valve body on later-year cars and almost never on earlier years?
Bill, while it seems true from accounts on the forums that later year cars experience P1776 more than earlier years, I have not seen data that shows it to be usually the valve body that has failed. Most people replace both valve body and solenoid at the same time so they never find out which was the failure. On this point I am not surprised by the statement of TransmissionPartsUSA that it is usually the solenoid pack. Just my feeling.

These solenoids rebuilt or new have the possibility of failing once in the life time of the vehicle because it is an electrical part which will burn out over time updated or otherwise. That is the nature of these parts.
The solenoid pack is an electrical part, an electro-mechanical part and a hydraulic part. I would be interested in data, if it exists at all, that shows a part of the solenoid “burns” out. My failed solenoid certainly did not burn out. I disassembled my failed solenoid pack several times and there is nothing about its design that leads me to believe that it is “the nature of these parts” to burn out.

I hope these comments help.
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post #33 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 08:37 PM
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Enrique Castillo SR apparently doesn't sell very many 42LE Solenoids. Despite the ironic/moronic statement about it being his #1 seller! I would go ahead though and replace the Valve Body along with that solenoid just to be safe.

8 quarts will get you in the ball park. 9 to be extra safe.

Last edited by Adpros; 05-17-2013 at 08:41 PM.
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