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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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P0700 p1776

I just had the TB/WP and Full Tranny Flush done 2K miles ago at Chrysler shop but as a side job by a mechanic. It is an 04 2.7 Concorde with 96K miles.

Son was driving it and he said the engine light was on and the car revved real high, like it down shifted. He got off the road, stopped and restarted it and it drove fine home. The engine light is still on.

I just took it to Autozone and it is the P0700 and P1776 codes.

Transmission fluid looks too high to me. Whether Hot or Cold it is above the Hot line.
Could this flush or overfilling have caused this problem?

Not sure where to bring it now. Back to the guy who worked on it or to a Transmission shop.
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 07:51 PM
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I'd start by getting that fluid level back to where its supposed to be. High oil level will cause aeration because of the rotating parts hitting the oil. That will cause low fluid flow through the valve body and low pressure (or no pressure) being applied to the clutch packs. Engine will rev high because the transmission is basically in neutral. Once you've got the fluid level reasonably close, get it hot and check it again. Checking the tranny fluid level when its hot is most accurate because thats the condition (and level) that it will be at during most driving.
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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 08:53 PM
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I think the P1776 code is pretty specific, and that others who've had it will be telling you exactly what needs to be done. Seems like I remember seeing recent discussions of it.
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 12:03 AM
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search "valve body"
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 01:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
I think the P1776 code is pretty specific, and that others who've had it will be telling you exactly what needs to be done. Seems like I remember seeing recent discussions of it.
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Originally Posted by 300maximilien View Post
search "valve body"
From a search of "P1776", I think these are the recent discussions I was thinking of - pretty detailed info. here:

http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthr...31#post2031031

http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthr...94#post2028894
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
I think the P1776 code is pretty specific, and that others who've had it will be telling you exactly what needs to be done. Seems like I remember seeing recent discussions of it.
your right. memory failed me. for some reason I was thinking that code was for the tcm not seeing the correct output speed for a given ratio.
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, so it looks like I may be OK to replace the solenoid pack if it is within the range, and I see other people say to do both this and the valve body, or even to clean out the solenoid pack and replace it.

Is it OK to drive with it as it is, or could it cause more problems damage?

Just wondering if I can use the car until I get it fixed. It went into the limp mode just one time so far.
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 06:29 PM
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As long as it doesn't go back into limp mode, you're fine. In fact, it may not go back into limp mode.

The only danger that I've found with driving in limp mode is that it stresses the engine out as you drive down the interstate doing 70 in second gear
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 08:28 PM
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As long as it doesn't go back into limp mode, you're fine. In fact, it may not go back into limp mode.

The only danger that I've found with driving in limp mode is that it stresses the engine out as you drive down the interstate doing 70 in second gear
Actually with a 1776, it wont go into second until you hit 35. I found with my old trans that it would lock itself into a gear until it gets to a lower speed, then goes into limp.
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 10:22 PM
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Transmission fluid looks too high to me. Whether Hot or Cold it is above the Hot line.
Could this flush or overfilling have caused this problem?
Did you check the trans fluid with the engine running (trans at operating temp) and in neutral? As for flushing the trans I have always been told that could be a bad thing if the trans has high mile on it, possibility of clogging up small oil journals or lodging a loose particle in a valve. A fluid and filter change should be all that is needed.
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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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Transmission level looked right on after warming up and in a level spot. Drove it again for a bit and the same thing happened.

Yes, it looks like I definitely should not have done the Transmission Flush done. So much for being proactive.

I am going to look into having the solenoid pack replaced if it is in range.
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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by FlyingBoat View Post
Transmission level looked right on after warming up and in a level spot. Drove it again for a bit and the same thing happened.

Yes, it looks like I definitely should not have done the Transmission Flush done. So much for being proactive.

I am going to look into having the solenoid pack replaced if it is in range.
Although I'm not a big fan of machine flushes (manual flushes by disconnecting the cooler lines and starting the engine 5 s at a time is fine), I highly doubt it caused the pressure sensor error.

These late model solenoid packs are poorly constructed, and fail randomly. Mine went at 70k, and the transmission was maintained religiously, with a shift kit installed at 38k.
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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 10:55 PM
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Although I'm not a big fan of machine flushes (manual flushes by disconnecting the cooler lines and starting the engine 5 s at a time is fine), I highly doubt it caused the pressure sensor error.
I doubt that the cooling circuit is full flow. I'd have to double check to be 100% sure, but I think if you were to flush your transmission that way then you would only be mixing new and used fluid.
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 12:17 AM
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I doubt that the cooling circuit is full flow. I'd have to double check to be 100% sure, but I think if you were to flush your transmission that way then you would only be mixing new and used fluid.
No different than if you hooked a machine to the cooler lines and did a forced flush.

Nothing is 100% replacement, but if I had to make an educated guess, I'd say 95% based on 1), the flowrate out of the line (takes 5 seconds / quart at idle speed, that's a LOT of flow); and 2) the definite change in color that occurs as old fluid turns to new.

Between a potentially harmful reverse machine flush, a 50% pan drop replacement, and a near 100%, yet highly safe (not to mention cheap) flush, what would you choose?
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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 12:58 AM
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Actually with a 1776, it wont go into second until you hit 35. I found with my old trans that it would lock itself into a gear until it gets to a lower speed, then goes into limp.
Limp-in is 2nd and that's that. If your trans is making any shifts, it isn't in limp-in.

However, a key cycle may inhibit limp-in the first time.
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