Timing belt - Page 2 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by MrBigE View Post
If you have it in a vice, once you feel tension on the plunger, just give it 1/2 to 3/4 turn of the handle, wait 5 mins... repeat.

It should take you about 15 mins to fully depress the plunger. Any faster and it can be compromised.
^^^ Probably good advice. ^^^



Although, I've done several without taking more than a minute to fully compress them in a vise. So far, so good.
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012, 05:21 PM
That rhythm is INFECTIOUS.


 
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There are others who don't bother to re-compress the tensioner, but re-install fully extended, then slowly tighten the two bolts that hold it in place. Same idea applies - give it a full turn on each bolt... wait a moment or two, repeat until tight. YMMV.

FSM says to slowly compress, re-insert pin, then install.
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so its good! Or is it just a better idea to replace it at 206000 miles?
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012, 05:41 PM
That rhythm is INFECTIOUS.


 
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Maintenance schedule calls for a hydraulic tensioner replacement every other TB change, IIRC.

Most say if it's not leaking, re-use it.

I chose to replace mine when I did the same maintenance a few months ago for 200K maintenance.
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micholob View Post

Although, I've done several without taking more than a minute to fully compress them in a vise. So far, so good.
all of them like this i've compressed, i've used the vice til you feel it get hard, stop a few seconds, then about an 1/8 turn, stop a sec, repeat til its in far enough to insert a pin. usually takes less than 30 secs.
thing is, don't try and compress it faster than it will bleed down. even real slow steady turning will get it done.
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks guys I will put it back together tomorrow!
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-02-2012, 01:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBigE View Post
There are others who don't bother to re-compress the tensioner, but re-install fully extended, then slowly tighten the two bolts that hold it in place. Same idea applies - give it a full turn on each bolt... wait a moment or two, repeat until tight. YMMV.

FSM says to slowly compress, re-insert pin, then install.
i use this method its very convenient esp since i don't have a "working" vice also i always have a hard time judging how far that right side cam shaft moves when you tighten the tensioner so this way you can readjust the timing easily if its now how you want it.... and if you have tensioner as far out with the bolts as it can without coming out then you can take on and off the belt.

edit: opps sorry im out of my lines dont know if this is the same from 2nd to 1st gen and while i think the belt may have just been streched its much safer to just buy a new tensioner at around $15 then worry about the one you have going bad and having to go again or destroy your engine

Last edited by Ruggels; 12-02-2012 at 01:07 AM.
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-02-2012, 10:09 PM
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Just got my 01 done but they told me that they had a updated tensioner and did not uses the old one even with 38k on it. Never heard of this but they put it in,
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-02-2012, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
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...its much safer to just buy a new tensioner at around $15 then worry about the one you have going bad and having to go again or destroy your engine
Where are you finding them for $15?!

More like $75 for a new one. That's why they don't need replaced unless they were leaking.
Also, new doesn't always mean good. I would feel better having one that was used, but known good.

Edit: $110 for an OEM one on Ebay.

Last edited by micholob; 12-02-2012 at 11:10 PM.
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-02-2012, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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Its all done and running good Now we will have to see about them hard starts! I did find the crank gear was off one tooth!
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 07:21 AM
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Where are you finding them for $15?!...
Maybe he means the tensioner pulley (and bracket). People - and aftermarket sellers - often use the word 'tenionser' interchangeably for the tensioner pulley (and bracket) and the hydraulic tensioner. Creates a lot of confusion.
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 09:24 AM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
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^^^What he said. Very frustrating till you start looking at pictures.
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Still starts hard!!!! OMG
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