Oil leak above the oil filter - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Oil leak above the oil filter

I have an oil leak above the oil filter and below the valve covers! Any Ideas?
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 10:49 PM
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First thing I would check is the oil pressure sender, very common leak point....it is just above and to the left of the oil filter if viewed from below....if this is the case make sure you get one from the dealer, the aftermarket ones are known to cause the oil light to flicker at idle....
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Where do the oil cooling lines go in to the engine?
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firemnted View Post
Where do the oil cooling lines go in to the engine?
Are you talking about the aux oil cooler? If so, one line branches from the fitting in the oil sender tree and, heads off to the right side of the radiator.

The return line dumps into the right side of the oil pan.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 07:24 AM
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That tee fitting for the cooler lines at the oil pressure switch can leak - are a pain to replace and can be hard to find in the dealer network and are *expensive*. But hopefully your switch is leaking - which is more likely the problem.

Last edited by peva; 12-04-2012 at 07:27 AM.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 10:39 AM
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When/if you change the sender unit, it screws into the that tee fitting. The tee fitting rotates, so you need to be sure to hold it with a wrench while you remove/replace the sender. If you let it spin, it can start leaking, or it can screw up the oil cooler line...both of which are a MAJOR PITA. Mine started leaking in a big way (flowing out, not dripping). When I was trying to find a replacement, it was almost impossible. It was back-ordered forever. My dealer searched, and found only ONE in Wisconsin, that was available only because the woman found it on the wrong shelf!!!

Only other option would have been to bypass the cooler, which has been mentioned in a few other threads.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronbiggs View Post
When/if you change the sender unit, it screws into the that tee fitting. The tee fitting rotates, so you need to be sure to hold it with a wrench while you remove/replace the sender...
Good point.

Quote:
Only other option would have been to bypass the cooler, which has been mentioned in a few other threads.
Though mine never leaked, I disconnected the cooler on my 3.2. I had read a few too many posts about the restrictor in the cooler line spilling its guts into the oil pan, so the cooler would then be hogging too much oil away from the engine - you know - that thing we're trying to protect! LOL!

I'll take my chances, and am sleeping better at night, with no cooler rather than risk all the trouble and expense of its potential problems.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
Good point.

Though mine never leaked, I disconnected the cooler on my 3.2. I had read a few too many posts about the restrictor in the cooler line spilling its guts into the oil pan, so the cooler would then be hogging too much oil away from the engine - you know - that thing we're trying to protect! LOL!

I'll take my chances, and am sleeping better at night, with no cooler rather than risk all the trouble and expense of its potential problems.
Yeah..and like when my radiator blew, and started pumping coolant through the oil cooler return hose
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-05-2012, 11:03 AM
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I also decided to bypass the Oil cooler due to the accident. Looking at the design I just don't see how it can be very effective anyway.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-05-2012, 05:35 PM
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I also decided to bypass the Oil cooler due to the accident. Looking at the design I just don't see how it can be very effective anyway.
Hah! Yeah let's *cool* the engine oil with 210+F water!
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-08-2012, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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Does anyone know what the valve is called that the oil switch fits in to it also has a cooling line coming off of it! Trying to find a new one dealer wants $245.00!!!!! W.T.H.!!!
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-08-2012, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firemnted View Post
Does anyone know what the valve is called that the oil switch fits in to it also has a cooling line coming off of it! Trying to find a new one dealer wants $245.00!!!!! W.T.H.!!!
See post #4 + #5
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-08-2012, 04:59 PM
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"VALVE PACKAGE, Oil Cooler Pressure Control" - P/N 5014313AA

Is that tee leaking, or come apart inside (would find a ball and spring in the oil pan if so)? If so, ready to eliminate the cooler plumbing yet?

http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=26076

Item no. 33. No. 32 is the return fitting at the pan - there may be parts inside both pieces - the parts that were found in the oil pan may actually be from the the return fitting:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 00lh178 oil blowup.jpg (125.4 KB, 29 views)

Last edited by peva; 12-08-2012 at 05:17 PM.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-08-2012, 06:09 PM
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I thought he was talking about the fitting the oil pressure switch screws into. It is expensive too as it has a tube that leads of to the oil cooler. Last time I tried to price one, (At the dealer), it was over $250. And, it is a couple parts in the package that end up as an assembly. Sort of like a one-time install and then you are unable to take it apart in its assembled state.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-08-2012, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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It didn't come apart I was trying to change the switch and slipped with the wrench and broke the cooler line off! I got a friend thats going to try to Tig weld it! Does any one know where I can get a NEW one cheaper?
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