Interior windows icing up - funky damp smell from vents/defrost - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Interior windows icing up - funky damp smell from vents/defrost

Having a problem with interior windows fogging and icing up on my 2003. If I run vents or floor the interior fogs immediately. Must run defrost 100% of time to try to stay ahead of icing. Defroster works but only clears 2/3rds of windshield. Unable to clear any other windows. Smell from ventiliation smells very damp and musty whenever turned on. Smelled the same from A/C in summer. Dealer replaced Control Head and Calibrated the System in March but didn't seem to fix the problem. Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 12:47 PM
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Your Evaporator Core has a leak and your A/C system in not working properly. In defrost the A/C system is run to remove moisture out of the air. This helps defrost the inside of the windows more efficiently.


The odor is the rotting of debris/mildew on your EVAP.

Dash removal is required to fix this.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 12:52 PM
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Also....this is a very common issue on these cars
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help. Dash removal is 6-7 hours from what I'm told. The cold is on it's way.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 03:07 PM
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On it's way? It was 4 degrees in Laramie at 8pm Sunday night.
How cold does it have to be before you Minnesotans say the cold is here --------- LOL
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 04:31 PM
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notice: you could always run the fan on full blast, in the a/c mode, and spray lysol down the air inlet, making sure that the windows are open. then use febreeze if desired. worked for me.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 06:18 PM
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Double check your recirc door actuator and see if it has stopped functioning too. It is on the right hand side of the HVAC housing. Test the actuator by putting it in outside / inside air modes. An actuator stuck can also cause this symptom.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95intrepid99kid View Post
notice: you could always run the fan on full blast, in the a/c mode, and spray lysol down the air inlet, making sure that the windows are open. then use febreeze if desired. worked for me.
You are kidding right?
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgs View Post
On it's way? It was 4 degrees in Laramie at 8pm Sunday night.
How cold does it have to be before you Minnesotans say the cold is here --------- LOL
My answer is -20F
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 08:51 PM
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mines done this for years....my A/C works just fine....the smell only barely comes and goes....I have found that if you turn on the heat just to defrost right away with the car not near fully warmed up, it fogs up the entire windshield and VERY SLOWLY defrosts it but it never seems to get all the fog from the entire windshield...my suggestion to you, which works for my 00' R/T is this:
1. make sure before u turn the car off, turn the defrost fan all the way off...
2. when u start the car and its cold outside, let the car warm at least 70% fully up...if not 100%
3. do NOT turn on the defrost before that amount of engine heat
4. slightly crack open the front window or windows, 1/4" or so...not even below the seal so snow can get inside, just enough to get a very slight breeze
5. once warm, turn on defrost to 3rd click, not full blast...seems to do worse at full blast
6. give it about 2 minutes, u r good to go....
I have found this method to work fine...sounds like a pain in the ass but its actually not....just cracking the windows a tad helps move air around and definitey helps defrost the windshield...I think the seals are bad on these windshields after so many years and if u don't replace it the fogging along the edges continually gets worse by the winter.....but evaporator cores, heater cores def a problem in these...dash removal isn't 7 hours...there are quite a bit of write-ups on the site to help u out...basic tools and patience and a helper will get u done alot quicker
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 09:50 PM
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Have you checked the EVAP drain hole/hose to see if they are plugged?
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
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notice: you could always run the fan on full blast, in the a/c mode, and spray lysol down the air inlet, making sure that the windows are open. then use febreeze if desired. worked for me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTXKen View Post
You are kidding right?
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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Yep - I wouldn't consider myself even a Sunday mechanic, however if I have the right information I usually don't have any trouble with the repairs. So regarding "Have you checked the EVAP drain hole/hose to see if they are plugged?" Does this require dash removal to get at the drain hole/hose or can you give me a rough idea where it may be?
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 06:03 PM
That rhythm is INFECTIOUS.


 
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Drain is in the engine bay, coming out of the back wall, pointing straight down.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 06:14 PM
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same on a 1G?
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