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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 09:14 AM
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Most common cause of mystery coolant loss on our cars is hairline cracks in the coolant reservoir. If it's never been replaced (or even if it has several years ago), it's almost 100% certainty to be the problem. Don't get any aftermarket reservoirs - all are made by Dorman even if third-party labeled (like the NAPA Balkamp-branded one). You'll pay a little more from an on-line discount dealer, but it will last a lot longer..
So you suggesting I get one from dealer? or can I go look online? if they are all made my Dorman whats the diff? (obvious price dealer lists at $130 compared to online..)

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It could also be the cap leaking - but, again, if the reservoir is old, it's likely the problem, and they come with a new cap.
Good to know..

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Also, check for seeping around the coolant outlet housing and bleeder - they also are famous for failing - usually seep for a while, then suddenly are a huge leak. Sometimes the bleeder seat separates from the housing top, sometimes the housing top separates from the housing. (Yours is an '04, so the bleeder is probably the later design in which the bleeder was moved to the metal pipe, but even on those, the top of the plastic housing top can separate from the housing.)
Should have clearified.. the by-pass tube on mine comes in two parts.. the tube that runs under the plenum & the part your talking about above. however even though they can be separated all the dealers in my area sell it as one part (bleeder housing and pipe), the bleeder can be purchased separate (rockauto.com) but when it goes I just go to dealer. I know they are notorious for leaking (replaced it twice in 5 years)

I'll deffinately check out the resovoir.

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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 10:11 AM
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I know you said you checked the hoses, but one other thing you might want to check is the outlet hose on the bottom of the coolant bottle. I was losing small amount of coolant, and when I felt underneath the bottom of the bottle, it was wet. The hose was original, and had gotten so hard & brittle that it would not seal against the outlet nipple on the bottle...no matter how much I tightened the screw clamp that I put on (might have also had a small crack in the hose). It wasn't spraying out...just a small drip. Anyway, I changed it out, and took that as a sign, and changed out all the heater hoses while I was back there.
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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I was able to get the price down to 900!!! i havent had alot of time to look at the miss yet i should have taken it to auto zone during the test drive to get the codes read. Dumb move on my part, but will see what happens.
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 08:26 PM
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So you suggesting I get one from dealer? or can I go look online? if they are all made my Dorman whats the diff? (obvious price dealer lists at $130 compared to online..)
Yes - from dealer. On-line discount Chrysler dealer sells the OEM part - *not* Dorman. On line discount dealer (www.wholesalemopar.com) price is $65. Hmm - your dealer must either charge way higher than even list price, or you're in Canada - Ahh yes - I see you're in ON.

Dorman's supplier uses inferior material and probably has less stringent process/quality controls - doesn't last as long.

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...however even though they can be separated all the dealers in my area sell it as one part (bleeder housing and pipe), the bleeder can be purchased separate (rockauto.com)...
Oh boy!! That's also a Dorman part that does not last long. Besides not lasting as long, it is of the older poor factory design in which the metal bleeder seat is molded into the plastic housing. Only the OEM later design part is made with the metal bleeder seat welded instead to the metal pipe like yours came from the factory - so better design, and, being OEM, better plastic material and manufacturing quality.

The reason they sell it with the metal pipe is because if people with earlier year cars were to buy just the housing (new design, no bleeder because it was moved to the metal pipe), they'd end up with *no* bleeder.

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but when it goes I just go to dealer. I know they are notorious for leaking (replaced it twice in 5 years)...
Yep - that's Dorman for you.


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Last edited by peva; 01-03-2013 at 08:41 PM.
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 10:11 AM
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Then my dealer is selling the Doorman one because both times when I went to dealer they sold me the one with the plastic housing and bleeder screw in it.
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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 10:43 AM
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PEVA thanks for the website (http://www.wholesalemopar.com/) ordered the resovoir from there....
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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 10:44 AM
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Another good side with reasonable USPS shipping to Canada is:

http://www.factorymoparparts.com/
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 11:11 AM
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Then my dealer is selling the Doorman one because both times when I went to dealer they sold me the one with the plastic housing and bleeder screw in it.
That would be surprising, but that may be. When I plug in just the part number for the housing (4792329) in the on-line dealers, it supercedes to the part number for new design housing and tube (5017183AB). Pretty sure that is to force people to go with the new (improved) design (bleeder moved to the tube).

How long ago did you get yours with the bleeder in the housing? Maybe it was before they discontinued that one. If it was recent, it would apper that they are in fact selling the Dorman part (but not thru the Chrysler system). If so, they may think they are helping the customer by doing so (saving money by not needing a new tube), but it really would be a dis-srevice. Did it come in the typical sealed Chrysler part plastic bag?

Yours being a 2004, did yours originally have the bleeder in the housing? If so, perhaps the new design didn't happen until the LX platfrom. That may be the case since the parts pdf's I have for '99 and '04 both have the old design housing part number.

(Here's a discussion we had in Aug. 2010 on the subject: 2.7 coolant outlet housing parts info. thread - see AdamT's post no. 2. And mopardiscountparts.com doesn't exist anymore.)

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PEVA thanks for the website (http://www.wholesalemopar.com/) ordered the resovoir from there....
You're welcome - they've been around for a while and are good - not the lowest prices, but close enough (on-line discount dealer prices are typcially 25 to 35% below list). Occasionally they send out emails with a code for additional discount (5% IIRC) - now that you're in their system, you'll probably get those.


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Last edited by peva; 01-05-2013 at 11:23 AM.
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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 12:15 PM
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well with shipping $30 it came up to $90 still cheaper then dealer... as for the by-pass just replace it last month.
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 12:32 PM
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well with shipping $30 it came up to $90 still cheaper then dealer... as for the by-pass just replace it last month.
Just make sure it's USPS not UPS or another carrier because you'll get rapped when the package crosses the border.
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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 12:33 PM
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I was able to get the price down to 900!!! i havent had alot of time to look at the miss yet i should have taken it to auto zone during the test drive to get the codes read. Dumb move on my part, but will see what happens.
Sweet!! Let us know how it goes!!
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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 01:29 PM
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Yeah unfortunately they only listed it as "ground shipping".

EDIT: Just confirmed USPS

Last edited by Intrepticon; 01-05-2013 at 04:01 PM.
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