As far as I understand, copper rtv(in aresole too) is a higher pressure formula. It's described as being used for forced induction engines. I love using it on nearly everything. I use black if its seen and/or isn't a pressured seal.
Unfortunately it's hard to find U.S. made parts. I mainly just go for what I know I've never had problems in the past. Many of the "name brands" have been bought and sold within the last few years. And a lot more manufacturing has moved out of the country. With my 2.7 tear down I was lucky and only had one part that didn't fit. A gates idler pulley was a complete different shape and I had to use a smaller head bolt and washer.
I didn't catch the first read you used the stop block. It's good insurance. I think you'll notice the noise still if the tensioner goes bad, but you can at least make it home and not blow the engine. I made one out of flat stock.
The 2.7 sludge problems are easily avoided with synthetic oil or a good synthetic blend.
IDK why everyone is making the connection to "RTV" What I coated the head gaskets with is NOT RTV in the least; the only RTV I used in the entire job was to smear a finger-full onto each of 3 places; one was the O ring on the thermostat housing, another was the water outlet at engine end of upper radiator hose and the 3rd was the O ring on the metal inlet to that housing. that was IT for RTV. By and large I do not believe in it. Typically if there is a "cut" gasket available then that's what I use; If i use anything else with the cut gasket it is something like Indian Head or Permatex Aviation sealer BUT, with the style of gaskets on the 2.7, I did not use any of that on this engine....
the factory service manul SAID to coat the head gaskets with a sealer either spray type or brush on Permatex Hi-Tack, neither of which is anything like RTV.... These sealers have been around way before RTV was dreamed of... so was this copper coat that I used.
the sludge issues won't be an issue even with conventional oil, as long it gets changed regularly, and as long as the water pump doesn't decide to die again; and then be driven with it leaking. This one was caught right as it went bad, and wasn' able to be driven that way, considering how it happened to fail.... In this case I guess you could say it malfunctioned as a "fail safe" but from what I have read this isnt usually how they fail;
This is not my car I will probably turn the owner onto this site I can suggest anything I want but not being my car doesnt mean that they will follow thru. (meaning my suggesting synthetic oil vs regular oil when they have them changed) I have already told them that 3K miles means 3K miles on interval if they have any hope of keeping this car alive.
sounds like they are planning on trying to get around 50K miles from it then "dump" it.... with only 112K on the car in total as of now, I would like to hope that this is a realistic goal; if it were a 318 V8 or a 4.0 inline I would expect at least double that number if I had one with as low of miles as this car has on it..... I have plenty of experience with those engines. For my own use I always look for either of those under the hood when I am shopping for a vehicle; I lost count how many 318s I have gotten cheap, basically left for dead, that gave me 50-60K of good service with literally not much more than catching them up on neglected maintenance, tuneup and such.... I only know 2.7s based on reputation alone, have never owned one and this is my 1st adventure tearing one apart to fix what ailed it....
I took a break from it today to work on my utility trailer; I welded some supports on the tongue and mounted an ATV winch to it within an older metal Craftsman hand carry toolbox and cut a window in the back wall of the box just big enough to pass the hook thru and bolted all that to the tongue. being enclosed within this box will keep the weather off of the winch motor so it has a chance to live.... just gotta cut a flap from some old conveyor belt so that I can put over the window I built the trailer myself from scratch 2 years ago....
I start a new job in 2 weeks and gotta take my big Matco box to the new job before then and I ain't gonna be able to just wheel it up the ramp gate.....and I ain't payin a flatbed tow truck $200 to take it there (that may be low; the new job is 40ish miles away and it cost me $50---7 years ago-- to have it brought home that way, a whole 7 miles)
Tomorrow I plan to replace that oil sending unit and change tranny fluid and engine oil again, I may put my remote oil gauge on the engine via the sending unit hole to verify oil pressure if I have the right thread adapter to do so... For now I am putting conventional oil in it as I already told the car owner to have oil changed within a week or so of driving once they get it back from me.... IDK what has been put oil into this car to date other than what was put into it by me 3 days ago. My goal is to have the car back to them by sometime this weekend.