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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-14-2013, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Pressure Light

Hi Everybody! I need some help. The problem is that the oil pressure light starts lights up(not flashing) when the engine is hot enough.

There was next events: the day before i want to check my brakes and stopped abruptly to check the ABS. After that the oil pressure lamp starts flashing (how it is connected with braking i dont know, may be oil pump lost pressure because the oil flowed to the part of crankcase????)
Then, after the car was shutdown for 8 hours, & then starts, the oil pressure light did not flashing or light.

Next day i came to service to change the oil (shedule time), and there was found that the oil pressure sensor starts leaking. I had a thought - this was a reason of flashing. After oil and sensor were changed, there was all absolutely normal. But, after about 8-10 km driving the oil pressure lamp first starts flashing on idle speed, then it lights up continuously on <=1000 RPM!

Returned to service, they measured oil pressure after engine shut down(about 5 minutes after), and result was: Idle - 13-15 PSI(0.88-1 atm), 3000 RPM - 65 PSI(4.4-45 atm). It is normal. But, after they connected oil pressure sensor and starts up engine, there was no flashing of oil lamp.
it has been suggested that, on IDLE speed engine do not heated for low pressure, but after city driving, oil temperature increases to the limit, when the viscosity is on the minimum.
This is logical, but i dont understand, how can the oil cool down after 5-7 minutes, when the pressure becomes normal(the oil have low thermal conductivity). Is it really?

The main question of all of that: is it really evidence of low oil pressure or some bug of oil pressure sensor?
How to measure pressure right? Spin up engine for long time to heat it?

p.s.I strongly apologize for language, and really need help.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-14-2013, 04:19 PM
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You need a new oil pressure switch.

Last edited by Ronbo; 07-14-2013 at 05:38 PM.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-14-2013, 05:28 PM
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Go buy the sensor and replace it, don't kick your feet and say it's OK to ignore, change it now. Preferably OEM sensors.

I ignored my oil sensor and on my return home from a long distance trip, completely unaware that it was pushing all my engine oil out on the ground. Sure enough the one day I didn't check my oil this happened, and when I did check it later it was empty and had a bit of a "wobbly" whine to it after (egg shelled the rod bearings).

Being Dodge it would have went on for ever probably but that was my excuse to get my 3.5...
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-14-2013, 08:13 PM
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yep,, bad sensor,, get one from the chrysler dealer, the aftermarket ones , our cars dont like,, ,
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-15-2013, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for answers! In service they install me the original mopar sensor (from USA). This means it is defective? May be i have to buy alternative sensors - "Airtex 1S6670" or "Mitsubishi M04608303
SWITCHENG" or try the new original - "Chrysler 5149098AA"?

p.s. I use Castrol Edge oil 5w30, is it normal for 200K km engine? Or exist recomendations to use 10w40 or 5w40??

Last edited by Lexx_ID; 07-15-2013 at 03:51 PM.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-15-2013, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Lexx_ID View Post
Thanks for answers! In service they install me the original mopar sensor (from USA). This means it is defective? May be i have to buy alternative sensors - "Airtex 1S6670" or "Mitsubishi M04608303
SWITCHENG" or try the new original - "Chrysler 5149098AA"?
If you read the FSM. it says that the oil pressure should be a minimum of 5 psi at idle with the engine at normal operating temperature.

It is certainly possible that you got a bad sensor. I'd try one more time with a Chrysler one. Is it possible that the "thieves in the law" are running a scam with defective or counterfeit (re-boxed aftermarket) parts from U.S. into Mother Russia?

Another possibility is that the connector at the oil pressure switch is still wet with oil from the previous leaking switch. That can conduct enough current to light the low oil pressure light (unlike incandescents, LED's will light visibly from relatively small leakage currents). You may want to try disconnecting the connector and spraying the switch, the inside of the connector, and the wire with brake parts cleaner to get the oil off. Let it dry and put it back on the switch.

Quote:
p.s. I use Castrol Edge oil 5w30, is it normal for 200K km engine? Or exist recomendations to use 10w40 or 5w40??
I think 5W-40 is the perfect oil specification for a high mileage car. I switched over to Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 in all of my cars last year. My 2.7 has 260k miles on it and is still running great.


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs

Last edited by peva; 07-15-2013 at 08:02 PM.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-16-2013, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, thanks for answering!
Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
If you read the FSM. it says that the oil pressure should be a minimum of 5 psi at idle with the engine at normal operating temperature.
"Normal" - means engine working idle without trip?

Quote:
It is certainly possible that you got a bad sensor. I'd try one more time with a Chrysler one. Is it possible that the "thieves in the law" are running a scam with defective or counterfeit (re-boxed aftermarket) parts from U.S. into Mother Russia?
Probability of that, i tnink, is approaching to the minimum), because this parts(not only sensors) shipping from the usa. The sensor was in the package, like this -
May be the dealer parts have more quality, than other ones from i-net shops

Quote:
Another possibility is that the connector at the oil pressure switch is still wet with oil from the previous leaking switch. That can conduct enough current to light the low oil pressure light (unlike incandescents, LED's will light visibly from relatively small leakage currents). You may want to try disconnecting the connector and spraying the switch, the inside of the connector, and the wire with brake parts cleaner to get the oil off. Let it dry and put it back on the switch.
May be, but, before installing, servicemen had sprayed wd-40 on connector, but did not dry it). There is a problem with installing sensor, when the engine is filled with oil, oil leaking when connector switch off, and it is hard to keep this place dry.


Quote:
I think 5W-40 is the perfect oil specification for a high mileage car. I switched over to Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 in all of my cars last year. My 2.7 has 260k miles on it and is still running great.
And how much oil "burns" between replacement of it?

I use the Castrol from USA. Many people say that other "castrol" - piece of sh*t. But there are other ones, who say , that Castrol too liquid. I was advised to use "General Motors" Oil 10w40. But anyway, i think i need originally produced and imported oil, because regional manufacturers are not credible, and there are a lot of counterfeit production.
Could you presented image of your "Shell Rotella" package? I found this -

it looks like an original? ))
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-17-2013, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Lexx_ID View Post
Ok, thanks for answering!

"Normal" - means engine working idle without trip?
Before or after trip, doesn't matter. As long as the temperature gage is at normal reading (just below middle mark).

Quote:
May be the dealer parts have more quality, than other ones from i-net shops
If it's in the Chrysler packaging, it should be OK. Internet Chrysler dealers are local dealers selling the same parts, just over the internet.

Quote:
...And how much oil "burns" between replacement of it?
None on my cars. If you use (burn) oil regardless of the type, if there are no external leaks, it likely means worn out valve stem seals or PCV system needs maintenance (PCV valve or hoses).

Quote:
...Could you presented image of your "Shell Rotella" package? I found this -

it looks like an original? ))
That is exactly what I use.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by peva View Post
None on my cars. If you use (burn) oil regardless of the type, if there are no external leaks, it likely means worn out valve stem seals or PCV system needs maintenance (PCV valve or hoses).
Ok, last sunday the problem was solved! In Service, that was a Chrysler Dealer at the past, specialists had explained me the causes of the pressure light flicker or lighting. As they explained, there was a Chrysler Official bulletin about flicker oil lamp. So, Chrysler recommended use wire 05017800AA, to vent the empty pin in the connector.
So, in service they have done next steps:
1. Measured the pressure - at IDLE - 18-20 PSI, at 3000 - 62 PSI
2. Removed the "sealing dart" from sensor connector
After that lamp do not flicker or lighting anymore.
As recommendation - buy vent wire and install it.

sealing dart -
Attached Images
File Type: jpg sealin dart to oil sensor.jpg (57.8 KB, 23 views)
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