Maintenance for Timing Chain / belt on Intrepids - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-19-2005, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Maintenance for Timing Chain / belt on Intrepids

I have 98 Trep. 2.7 litre with 136000 Km on it. Question: At what kilometers should the Timing Chain be changed ???
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-19-2005, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marif
I have 98 Trep. 2.7 litre with 136000 Km on it. Question: At what kilometers should the Timing Chain be changed ???
Every 90,000 miles.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-19-2005, 06:12 PM
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I have a 1998 concorde 2.7, HI, my timing chain tensior was replaced at 55k along with waterpump. They could not get the tensior to work properly. Could I assume I am good to go because they must have inspected the chain. This was extended warranty work done at dealer. thanks. I now have 61k. No problems switched to mobil 1.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-19-2005, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jessealan
They could not get the tensior to work properly.
Z
If that is the case, then why haven't you brought the vehicle back to them so they can do the job RIGHT?
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-19-2005, 06:41 PM
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Let me clarify. The car was a gift from Grandpa in omaha, along way away from me. THis work was done by dealer there. When they changed the water pump the tensioner was replaced because they could not get it to tighten.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-19-2005, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crombie
Every 90,000 miles.
What do you base the 90k miles on? That sounds a little excessive to me, but I'm willing to listen.
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-19-2005, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by peva
What do you base the 90k miles on? That sounds a little excessive to me, but I'm willing to listen.
That is my recommendation and from others that I have spoken too. It DOESN'T have to be changed out then. But then again... do whatever you guys want to do. Suggest something ... and everybody wants to see hardcore 110% proof.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-19-2005, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by crombie
That is my recommendation and from others that I have spoken too. It DOESN'T have to be changed out then. But then again... do whatever you guys want to do. Suggest something ... and everybody wants to see hardcore 110% proof.
Not at all. I was simply asking for your rationale. Is your recommendation mostly a concern for the water pump?
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-19-2005, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peva
Not at all. I was simply asking for your rationale. Is your recommendation mostly a concern for the water pump?
Sorry that I snapped in my other post. :( Rough night.

Anyways... The following is in my personal opinion. If we all notcie that the ideal goal for the 2.7L to reach is 100,000 miles (and of course more)... when my trep hits 90k Im going to change out the chain. I have another 5-6k to go. Better to change it out early... but not too early... changing it before 100k is the ideal timeframe... that way once it does hit 100k... bam! you can worry about other things... like what mod to do next. ;)
P.S.
Not sure if any of that made sense. If it didn't I apologize.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-19-2005, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crombie
...The following is in my personal opinion. If we all notcie that the ideal goal for the 2.7L to reach is 100,000 miles (and of course more)... when my trep hits 90k Im going to change out the chain. I have another 5-6k to go. Better to change it out early... but not too early... changing it before 100k is the ideal timeframe... that way once it does hit 100k... bam! you can worry about other things... like what mod to do next. ;)
P.S.
Not sure if any of that made sense. If it didn't I apologize.
Heh heh! Makes perfect sense.

When mine was below 100k miles, I remember telling myself that I was going to replace my chain and pump at around 105 to 110k. I'm now at 130+k with the original everything, so you can see how long I stuck to my original plan. I think my philosophy is cross my fingers and shoot for 200k - let whatever happens happen - maybe get a little advance warning like some coolant out the weep hole or some noise, and do it then - right now the pump weep hole is bone dry and not a molecule of residue, runs great and super quiet.

I may chicken out before 200k though.


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Last edited by peva; 01-19-2005 at 09:14 PM.
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-19-2005, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peva
the pump weep hole is bone dry
I have heard of this "peep hole" before. But I am still unclear as to the exact location of it.
Ok, I knwo that it's at the water pump. Is the hole you can see clear as day? Or will some snooping around the pump revel it then?

Last edited by crombie; 01-19-2005 at 09:29 PM.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-19-2005, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crombie
I have heard of this "peep hole" before. But I am still unclear as to the exact location of it.
Ok, I knwo that it's at the water pump. Is the hole you can see clear as day? Or will some snooping around the pump revel it then?
The weep hole is ported into the block - comes out right below the thermostat (on lower side of engine block - driver's side).

In the sketch below - see the 4 small holes in the block, and dotted lines to 3 of those holes indicating where thermostat housing screws go? Well the 4th hole (the one with no dotted line going to it on the lower left of where the thermostat housing sits) is that weep hole. To see it, you'll need to crawl under the driver's side of the car - just ahead of the front wheel with it jacked up - and look to the side of the engine block right behind the alternator to see the thermostat housing and the weep hole - pretty crowded in there, but you can see it. You'll need to do it in daylight to get a good view (and while you're looking at it, try to imagine replacing the thermostat, lower radiator hose, and the short piece of heater hose connecting the thermostat housing to the metal pipe - dang near impossible).



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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-20-2005, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for the wealth of info. Saw the local dealership in Toronto yesterday, and they said it should be changed at 180000 Km which transaltes to approx. 112000 miles, but they said they recommend to do at rou
ghly 150000km which is at 94000 miles, which is what you guys are aware of.
Peva, your diagram is excellent, but for someone novice like myself, is there, you, or anyone else summerise the early warning signs. For example, the reason for me to bring this matter up, even though I have 135000 km on my trep, is, in the past 3 weeks (under cold -25C Toronto temperatures), I am hearing a faint grinding sound precisely between 1200 and 1500 RPMs only. The sound never comes at RPMs outside of the range. I am wondering if this has anything to do with the Timing Chain.
The car has been running fine, although the usage is limited with about 60% of highway driving. Just to help diagnose the problem, My steering wheel causes a faint grinding sound (when turning right, which is where the other sound appears to be concentrated also) in sub-zero temperatures (never in summer) that sounds very similar to the one described above. No leaks of oil nor coolant either.
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-20-2005, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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I AM CONFUSED NOW. I just spoke to two more Chrysler Dealership. One said that the Timing Chain is never required to be replaced. The second one said it is required after 200000 km.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-20-2005, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marif
I AM CONFUSED NOW. I just spoke to two more Chrysler Dealership. One said that the Timing Chain is never required to be replaced. The second one said it is required after 200000 km.
Timing chains are never "required" to be changed. I've never seen a maintenance schedule requiring a timing chain to be replaced as it is a lubricated metal component. They don't typically break but if the tensioner fails or the chain stretches to much, it may slap around in there and you can usually hear that. Timing belts (the 2.7 doesnt have one) on the other hand wear out and do need to be replaced every 60k miles or so. If they snap, the engine may get trashed.

That said, the 2.7 engine does have lubrication concerns and the timing chains or timing chain tensioners have been known to fail. Replacing it at or before 100k miles MAY prevent that from happening. It is not a minor job though. Fairly labor intensive and I suspect it could cost $500 or more to do it.

Personally I wouldn't do it on my car. I use the best oil I can buy (Mobil 1), change it frequently and keep a close watch for any symptoms. I think it is to big a job to do as preventative maintenance. If there ever is a reason to open the front seal on the car (eg. water pump failure or severe oil leak) then while it's open I would replace the timing chain, tensioner, water pump and oil pump.

The growl symptoms you describe probably come from the power steering pump. They tend to get noisy, especially when it's cold out.
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