1999 Intrepid ticking sound! HELP!! - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-02-2006, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Angry 1999 Intrepid ticking sound! HELP!!

I have a 1999 Intrepid with approx. 94k miles. The other day I was driving when I started to hear a clunking noise coming from the motor area. It sounded like I had a desiel motor. It only makes this noise at idle and when the car is at normal operating temperature. When I give it the gas above 1500 rpm the noise goes away. When I let go of the gas the noise is there again. I do not get the noisee when the car is cold. Only at normal operating temperature. I get no check engine or oil pressure light at all. The exhaust is also clean. I am running 10-30 Castrol durablend oil. Any ideas people.

Mark
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-02-2006, 08:33 PM
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Which engine?
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-02-2006, 08:46 PM
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Hmm you might outa try something like STP oil treatment to thicken the oil(I usually save some money and get that Tech 2000 stuff from walmart, same difference). If it has been a while since you last oil + filter change that is a good idea also.

Take it to a mechanic? Not trying to be a jerk but I get a lot of help from other people even if they are not super duper mechanics just asking people what it sounds like to them. You'ld be suprised what a second set of ears can hear.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-02-2006, 08:52 PM
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Agreed, if it is a 2.7, it may very well be a timing chain issue. They are known for it. If your not sure, let your mechanic be the judge.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-02-2006, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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Ticking sound

Its the 2.7 motor. Would'nt you get the deisel sound from the motor from the get go? Would any light go on the dash if it was the chain?
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-02-2006, 10:47 PM
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Not to be the bearer of bad news, but that sounds like a rod knock...quieter when cold and under acceleration, louder at warm idle and deceleration. Sadly, it's a fairly common failure for the 2.7's (Of the ones that fail) Usually, this is due to oil starvation of the rod and/or main bearings, which could be caused by sludge or abuse (like mine! ).
Of course, without hearing it in person, it's hard to tell. It could also be a timing chain/tensioner issue...
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-02-2006, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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The thing that kills me is it still has get up and go and no smoke from the exhaust. I have about 9 months left on my warranty so let the dealer figure it out. I did change the oil the minute I heard this noise!
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2006, 12:46 AM
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Well if you have a warranty it is sort of a waste of time trying to figure it out yourself, just drive it to the dealer.

I am not sure I agree with you about the rod knock sounding better when cold or under acceleration. I just rebuilt mine because of a rod knocking and the sound was always present, of course unless the car was off. Mine has spun the bearing so it was fairly severe but it never tapped it went straight from running fine to sounding like hell. It was definately loudest under acceleration.

I know this might sound wierd mk but a rock knock would sound basier then almost anything else that could go wrong on your car. I guess it really could be quite a few things. Regardless I would take it to a shop you trust.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2006, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys!

Thanks for all your help guys. Its going to the dealer tommorrow. Why not! Its under warranty. Will keep everyone posted on the outcome.

MArk
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-09-2006, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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We'll it turns out to be the timing chain, guides and tensioner that was the problem. Good thing its under warranty. They are also changing the oil switch and vented wire on the switch. Should I run fully synthetic oil now?
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-13-2006, 11:38 PM
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Converting to synthetic

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Originally Posted by mk1966
We'll it turns out to be the timing chain, guides and tensioner that was the problem. Good thing its under warranty. They are also changing the oil switch and vented wire on the switch. Should I run fully synthetic oil now?
Hmmm. Did they say exactly what caused those items to be the problem? 2.7L engines (particularly from years 1998 to 2001) are prone to sludging problems that affect the timing chain, guides, and tensioner. So it is a real good idea to find out exactly what problems they found and if sludging is an issue.

Synthetic oil (I prefer Mobil 1 because it is a true synthetic oil with an excellent reputation, some other brands use modified mineral oil) can reduce or prevent the possibility of sludge damage. However I've seen accounts on this board and elsewhere of engines being ruined after a sudden switch to synthetic caused sludge build up to dislodge quickly and damage to the engine.

Your best bet is to first ensure that there is no sludge in the engine, if possible. Then slowly convert to synthetic oil. There are other posts that describe how to do this successfully. Basically you want to change oil frequently, introducing more and more synthetic with each change until all 5 quarts is synthetic. At each change be on the alert for sludge which may be coming out of the crankcase.

Also there is a TSB out there which has a method for keeping the PCV hoses warm to reduce sludging. I believe later model years incorporated this fix.

Good luck!
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-14-2006, 12:13 AM
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I am having the same problem, had the engine flushed and oil pan dropped sure enough the timing chain guide is broke makes the motor sound like a diesel only after warm up though. 91,000 miles no warranty left it's going in wed. to be fixed. wonder what how much it will set me back.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-14-2006, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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It would have set me back about 1100 dollars without the extended warranty. Labor at the Dodge dealer was about 625.00 dollars and parts were about 250.00. I wouldn't drive it around beacause if the chain skips a tooth or 2 you valves will hit the pistons. Caiught mine just in time!

THey told me that the timing chain guides wore out and the chain was slapping around. They also replaced the tensioner which went bad. Also they replaced some bushng as well. There were 2 tensioner parts they replaced. Basically the timing chain tensioner failed which caused the chain to rattle. All fixed now! Thank the Gods!I am going to put in synthetic oil and people recommend that you don't use fram oil filters. Why is that?

Last edited by mk1966; 01-14-2006 at 01:58 PM.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-15-2006, 02:10 AM
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The guts of the oil filter are critical. The oil filter should maintain a slight resistance as oil passes through it and it has a check valve so oil cannot run through it backwards. Some oil filters even have magnets inside to catch metal particals.

Basically everyone is of the opinion that fram spends the extra $.25 that it would take to make good check valves and magnets on the easy grip coating. Therefore the filter is not as good. I personally like the easy grip coating so for now I am using them. Once I get through the break in cycle on my engine I will probably switch to bosch filters. But since I have changed the oil the twice allready this month I like the easy grip.

I personally don't worry about it too much the check valve is the most important part I think. I am not saying that the actual filter element is not important, but all oil filter material filters down to the very tiniest imaginable sizes. If chunks of my engine are floating around in the oil for the oil filter to catch it is allready too late.

I mean seriously who hasn't found shiney things in their oil when they drain it before. The metal should sink when it gets in the pan. Plus the oil has a long journey to go through before hitting the oil filter so there are plenty of places for it to screw things up before getting to the oil filter.
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