How do you change the coolant on Dodge Intrepid ES 1999 3.2L? - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 5 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-13-2007, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Modder
 
tipstir's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: CT - FL
Posts: 545
Feedback: 0 / 0%
                     
Wink How do you change the coolant on Dodge Intrepid ES 1999 3.2L?

I am the original owner of my car. I got it new back in the middle of 1999. I now have over 120,000 miles which is merely all highway mileage. I had never changed the coolant that was rated at 100,000 miles. Today I got under the car but I don't see where I would drain the coolant there is no P-CK near the radiator? I rather work on the car myself. This way I know it done right. To me it looks like everything is sealed under the car?

Does anyone know change or flush the coolant out of 1999 3.2L engine?

PS: What would be the steps to be taken to do such a job... The new coolants say 5 years or 150,000 miles..
Also how much coolant and water do I use? They have the new type of coolants that have 50/50 mix. Are those good to use in this type of engine thanks in advance!
tipstir is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-13-2007, 07:44 PM
Intrepid Newbie
 
RSchyns's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: CT. River Valley
Posts: 88
Feedback: 0 / 0%
                     
I just replaced my upper and lower radiator hoses. If you only want to drain and refill....
I found that a 19mm deep socket fit right over the drain valve. Its located on the passenger side of the radiator at the bottom. Put on the socket and a short extension, only 1/2 turn counter clockwise. Drains the radiator.
If your gonna try to flush and fill, I would pull the top radiator hose, put a garden hose in it and crank up the pressure. Will make quite a mess and spray coolant all over your belts (not really a good idea). Once you get coolant on the belts you will need to replace them.
The most environmentally friendly would be a flush and fill at a dealer.
RSchyns is offline  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-13-2007, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Modder
 
tipstir's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: CT - FL
Posts: 545
Feedback: 0 / 0%
                     
How did you change the upper and lower radiator hoses? Most of the front end seems covered. I'll try the 19mm deep socket fit as you have described. But can't you just drain the radiator then add the Prestone Flush and use distill water and just run the engine until it gets hot and the pressure builds? Then drain the radiator that way. Other cars I had own that's the way I did it. Have you changed your radiator pressure cap, I had to too mine was gone.
tipstir is offline  
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 05:14 AM
Intrepid Fan
 
Gun5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 224
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tipstir View Post
How did you change the upper and lower radiator hoses? Most of the front end seems covered. I'll try the 19mm deep socket fit as you have described. But can't you just drain the radiator then add the Prestone Flush and use distill water and just run the engine until it gets hot and the pressure builds? Then drain the radiator that way. Other cars I had own that's the way I did it. Have you changed your radiator pressure cap, I had to too mine was gone.
gotta take the radiator support cover off, and if ur gonna pull the radiator or get to anything below like timing belt, wp or a/c lines pull the front bumper (easy 5 minute job on these cars) headlights is 2 bolts each fogs is 1 bumper is like 6 or 8 might as well do it so nothing gets scratched if u like getting wreckless with it lol
Gun5 is offline  
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 07:59 AM
Intrepid Newbie
 
RSchyns's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: CT. River Valley
Posts: 88
Feedback: 0 / 0%
                     
Quote:
Originally Posted by tipstir View Post
How did you change the upper and lower radiator hoses? Most of the front end seems covered.
1. Drain Radiator completely - with cool engine!
2. Remove upper radiator support - requires you to remove two headlights, window wash fill neck, cruise control bracket, about 8 bolts, and a few plastic plugs on the bumper fascia, as you raise the support you can remove two bolts holding on the hood latch. (piece of cake :icon_cry
3. Loosen the nuts on the A/C vbelt idler pulley, Alt/PS idler pump vbelt pulley. Do not remove them. loosen the adjusters, remove the belts. This is so you get more room to work and don't spill any coolant on the belts, it will ruin them.
4. remove the upper trans cooling line from the radiator, you may get a small amount of trans fluid leaking out, plug the line with the proper size bolt and move it out of the way.
5. remove the 4 bolts that hold in the radiator fan module, unplug the fan connector, remove fan module.
6. remove the upper radiator hose.
7. to access the lower radiator hose I removed the alternator - make sure your battery ground is disconnected. I also removed my battery positive connections to be safe. From the alternator remove the electrical cable and plug, then two bolts to persuade the alternator out. Now you can reach the bottom hose a bit easier.
8. Replace the hoses, wash off the vbelt pulley, serpentine belt pulley, harmonic balancer, alternator pulley, and A/C pulley if you got any coolant on them, and allow to dry. (good time to replace belts - $35, and inspect idler pulleys)
9. Reverse the procedure to reassemble.
If you take your time and label things, should take less than 3 hours the first time. I found the toughest part was the lower radiator hose engine connection spring clamp. Tough to get off and back on with the new hose.

Good luck
RSchyns is offline  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Modder
 
tipstir's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: CT - FL
Posts: 545
Feedback: 0 / 0%
                     
Thanks... Sounds like a project... Why did they built this engine like no easy access you got to dig part out remove other parts just get to those hidden parts. The oil Filter I couldn't figure out where the heck that was located, now I know it on the driver side front side at an odd angle.
tipstir is offline  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 01:05 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Virginia, U.S.
Posts: 14,198
Feedback: 4 / 83%
                     
Quote:
Originally Posted by tipstir View Post
Thanks...Why did they built this engine like no easy access you got to dig part out remove other parts just get to those hidden parts...
Between what the government and the buying public is demanding of cars these days (fuel mileage, lightweight, low pollution, safe in a crash, cram every kind of sensor and modern convenience you can think of into it, good handling, good acceleration), we have gotten exactly what we asked for. An unavoidable by-product of having all of those things in a single package is a very high level of integration that makes it very difficult/expensive to work on. It comes under the category of "be careful what you ask for".
peva is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-16-2007, 05:31 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
Fearless 2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: CHICAGO
Posts: 3,963
Feedback: 2 / 100%
                     
When bleeding the coolant, make sure you pinch the black resivour hose.
Fearless 2000 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Member names may only be composed of alpha-numeric characters. (A-Z and 0-9)

!!ATTENTION ADVERTISERS!! If you intend on advertising anything on this forum, whatsoever, you are required to first contact us here . Additionaly, we do NOT allow BUSINESS NAMES unless you are an Authorized Vendor. If you own a business, and want to do sales on this site via posting or private message, you will need to follow the rules. Shops, Stores, Distributors, Group Buys without being authorized will see your account terminated.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome