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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-19-2007, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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flexplate on TC ??

hey guys,

You have been pretty D@mn helpful in this adventrue I've been on. I'm still having the starting issues as in my other post, but thought I'd make a new thread about something I was thinking about. If I mount the flexplate on the Torque Converter 90/180/270 degrees off, will it not start? I have the flexplate mounted the engine based on the witness marks, just not sure if it was that important to match it up to the Torque converter like it was when removed. Will that throw the timing off? Doesn't seem like it would to me.

Also, If the Crankshaft sensor is loose will that have problems? It's pretty firm in it's location, but the screw isn't all the way tightened.

Thanks guys,

Josh
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-19-2007, 08:35 AM
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The flex plate bolts on the motor is one way, any other direction the bolt pattern won't line up. It doesn't matter on the bolt pattern on the flexplate to torque converter. If there was then you would see it in the manual.

It might screw up the crankshaft sensor if it's loose.

Last edited by TCPMeta; 11-19-2007 at 08:46 AM.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-19-2007, 08:43 AM
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or if you removed/installed the engine with the crankshaft sensor still attached some how, and damaged it or the wiring??
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-19-2007, 08:56 AM
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Yeah the FP to crank bolt holes are offset so its impossible to mount it any other way. The FP in relation to the TQ is irrelevant since there is no real reason for timing between the engine and tranny. The only thing I could think of that there might be a reason to align the FP and TQ would have to do with balancing and weight, but I've never heard of anything along those lines between those two parts.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-19-2007, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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That's what I figured guys. I removed the crankshaft sensor prior to removal and installed after the engine install. So that's good. It is loose, but when I put my hand on it when we try to crank the motor it doesn't move. It has a magnetic end, so I don't think it is coming off.

The only code I'm getting is P1289. I realized that my MT valve was wrong. I used the 04 one instead of the my mom's 99. Didn't notice the plug in was slightly different. Changed that to the correct one and still no start. Does try now. You can hear the whooping sound, ya know?

How do I clear current codes to retrieve new ones? Maybe the wire has been cut on the MT valve and I don't see it. I read a thread where a guy had the P1289 code and no start. Changed the ASR relay and bam it worked. I tried swapping one of the other Relays(same size) to see and nothing. I'm pretty sure I get hi-beams too, so that relay should have been good.

I really want to get this done, so I can lay some tracks down in front of the tech at dodge who said the 3.5L to 99 3.2L swap can't be done and will never work. He also said whoever told me this is a liar.

I hate pompous @$$ people like him. I didn't even want to try and explain where he was wrong with my little bit of knowledge I've picked up here, just let it go.

THanks,

Josh
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-26-2007, 01:14 PM
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Clearing Codes

"How do I clear current codes to retrieve new ones? Maybe the wire has been cut on the MT valve and I don't see it. I read a thread where a guy had the P1289 code and no start."

Im not sure what year the ODB II Scanner codes cover, but if you buy a mid-range scanner ($75 at Autozone) it not only reads the codes, gives you the english translation, but also allows you to erase all codes in the car. If you are not a techno gadget collector like I am, or just dont want to spend the money for your own scanner, you can just go to autozone and they will plug a scanner into your car and erase the codes for free.

Bob S
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-26-2007, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jondrew View Post
"How do I clear current codes to retrieve new ones? Maybe the wire has been cut on the MT valve and I don't see it. I read a thread where a guy had the P1289 code and no start."

Im not sure what year the ODB II Scanner codes cover, but if you buy a mid-range scanner ($75 at Autozone) it not only reads the codes, gives you the english translation, but also allows you to erase all codes in the car. If you are not a techno gadget collector like I am, or just dont want to spend the money for your own scanner, you can just go to autozone and they will plug a scanner into your car and erase the codes for free.

Bob S
The easiest way to clear codes is to take the negative cable off the battery for about 15minutes and then put it back on. It should clear your codes until they are thrown again. The battery one will still be there though. I think there is another way, but I'm not sure how that goes, deals with pulling a fuse.
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