3.5 HO K&N Cold Air Intake - Page 6 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #76 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-25-2014, 06:43 AM
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Dodge really hit a home-run with their Intrepid. One of the best looking cars on the road,still.
Thanks NCFRC, Your opinion then on what I've read about in other posts, about in the heavy oily residue found in parts, above the lower intake manifold is a result of a faulty PVC system. What exactly happens when that valve fails? I've read if you take if off and do the shake/rattle test, if its gummed up,no sound. Does it usually stick open or closed? Then what happens?
I've seen pictures of the upper intake manifold that guys have taken off, and the little butterfly flaps that are inside the runners of the plenum are really gummed up. That has to hurt the air flow somewhat? Cleaning those would mean taking the upper manifold off. Is that a big job? Would it be worth the effort?
Thanks, Dave

Last edited by Dave2004; 01-25-2014 at 07:19 AM.
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post #77 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-25-2014, 07:08 AM
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Dodge really hit a home-run with their Intrepid. One of the best looking cars on the road,still.
Thanks NCFRC, Your opinion then on what I've read about in other posts, about in the heavy oily residue found in parts, above the lower intake manifold is a result of a faulty PVC system. What exactly happens when that valve fails? I've read if you take if off and do the shake/rattle test, if its gummed up,no sound. Does it usually stick open or closed? Then what happens?
Thanks, Dave
The PCV valve usually gums up with age , either sticks or just doesn't allow the correct air flow . Shaking is a very dated test and I wouldn't suggest it. Especially that ours screw in and are a little pia to replace, I'd buy a new one. If one wasn't readily available , you could flush it with carb clean and order one. A PCV valve is a controlled vacume leak.
I can't agree more , The 2nd gen Intrepid is still a very sharp car today and rides great.
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post #78 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-25-2014, 08:26 AM
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Check this thread out about flawed OEM PCV valves: ALERT: Check OEM PCV valve for this design flaw...

I don't know how prevalent the problem was, but I do know that I got two like that at different times from a local dealer. I also do not know if the problem was fixed or not - can't say if it is/was a design problem or if it is a manufacturing process, setup, or worn-out tooling issue. I can say that if your PCV valve latches shut like that, it will go thru a lot of oil and the exhaust will smoke a lot under certain conditions. The problem turned on and off like throwing a switch when the defective OEM and then good aftermarket valves were installed. With the valve jam closed, blow-by would pressurize the crankcase and blow oil thru the crankcase vent hose into the intake tube, thru the TB, and into the plenum.


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post #79 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-29-2014, 08:38 AM
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Thanks guys, on another thread, a member said the build-up on the butterfly flaps was more of an accumulation of residue from gas fumes, than PVC. I suppose it's probably both?
If the hose is shot, would a 5/8 heater hose, cut to size work, or a different type hose recommended?
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post #80 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-29-2014, 05:57 PM
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Thanks guys, on another thread, a member said the build-up on the butterfly flaps was more of an accumulation of residue from gas fumes, than PVC. I suppose it's probably both?
If the hose is shot, would a 5/8 heater hose, cut to size work, or a different type hose recommended?
A 5/8" 90 degree heater hose would work but would get soft from the oil fumes.

I bought the OEM hose from Chrysler for $8.00. That's what I'd reccomend.
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post #81 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 05:24 AM
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A 5/8" 90 degree heater hose would work but would get soft from the oil fumes.

I bought the OEM hose from Chrysler for $8.00. That's what I'd recommend.
Thanks, glad I asked! I had read the use of heater hose from other threads. Would be a shame to have a good valve, but having the hose soften in time and collapse on itself, thinking all is good, is a nasty trick.
I couldn't find a part number for that little hose, don't need the whole assembly with pre-heater. Looked at local O'Reilly store, and sure enough, Gates makes PVC hose, Nitrile spiral reinforced construction to resist the fumes and collapse $3.50 a foot. Buy a foot, cut to size.
Although, looking at other posts, I found this:
"The heat exchanger is 1/2". The PCV valve is 5/8" and does not at all fit in the 1/2" hose".
This is what another guy did:
"I went to advance and they sized up the hose and using two feet of universal emission hose that is oil resistant. I also bought a brass 5/8 to 3/8 adapter from home depot".
This is getting way too much, looks like it might be a lot simpler and smarter to just to go factory on this?
I did find CHRYSLER OEM 04792645AC - around $115 online, $75.00 on e-bay. I couldn't find the factory small hose, just the entire unit.

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post #82 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 12:54 PM
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Somewhere I posted the PCV hose P/N (before the heat exchanger was used). People have said they no longer are available, but I bought 2 of them from www.wholesalemopar.com after that - probably about 6 or 8 months ago - were very inexpensive - I'm thinking $10 or $12. You can cut the center section out and throw it away and plug the two end pieces into the heat exchanger. The bends and the diameter away from the ends are the right size for the heat exchanger. Sorry - I'm pressed for time or I'd post the P/N, but I have posted the info. before.


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post #83 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 03:59 PM
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Hi Peva, I think I found the thread:
http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic...276539#p276539
I got the number, 4663961. Went to your site you mentioned, Wholesalemopar.com. Chrysler named it the "CYLINDER HEAD TO INTAKE MAN TUBE" - $11.25, In stock.
Thanks much!
Dave.
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post #84 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 06:09 PM
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You're welcome. (Also post no. 5 here: PCV questions.)
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post #85 of 90 (permalink) Old 02-01-2014, 05:44 AM
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Its amazing the help the internet and forums like this has helped.10 years ago, luck out with a Chilton's, know a good mechanic, or bring it to a dealer.
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post #86 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-16-2014, 06:18 AM
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Been thinking about the intake and plenum on our car. It would be interesting to talk to the group of engineers who had the job. To give the engine enough air, an exhaust to rid the fumes, and on the other hand,to quiet the noise made to levels they wanted.
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post #87 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-16-2014, 04:00 PM
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Been thinking about the intake and plenum on our car. It would be interesting to talk to the group of engineers who had the job. To give the engine enough air, an exhaust to rid the fumes, and on the other hand,to quiet the noise made to levels they wanted.
Everything is a compromise. Their goal was decent power but with a higher priority
on low engine bay noise and exhaust tone.
That's what sold the far majority of these cars ,, being a nice comfortable road trip car.
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post #88 of 90 (permalink) Old 03-16-2014, 04:19 PM
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Think you are right on. It's those very fast, yet quiet, comfortable cars sell to a income range level, as well age range. Powerful, smooth,quiet and very expensive.
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post #89 of 90 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 04:12 AM
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Hi, I was wondering about the factory designed opening in the fender, which I always took for granted as a port, or opening for cooler outside air to flow into the engine compartment for the stock air box or K&N type air filter,
I've never seen the fender off, and can't tell there the outside air enters the fender while the car is in motion for this flow of air to work.
Are we sure this really works like we(or I) think?
Air comes into the compartment from many areas, are we sure air isn't pushed out of that fender hole? Or doesn't really do anything? No doubt all would work just fine if that opening was sealed, just wondering if that works like it appears to? Probably hard to prove now, the factory guys had the all tools/equipment and sensors in engineering the cars.

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post #90 of 90 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
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Hi, I was wondering about the factory designed opening in the fender, which I always took for granted as a port, or opening for cooler outside air to flow into the engine compartment for the stock air box or K&N type air filter,
I've never seen the fender off, and can't tell there the outside air enters the fender while the car is in motion for this flow of air to work.
Are we sure this really works like we(or I) think?
Yes this is how the engine gets its air. In motion and idle. if you remove the air box and stick you hand in there you will feel a curved shield (opens toward the cab.) this is to prevent rain from going into the box..

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Air comes into the compartment from many areas, are we sure air isn't pushed out of that fender hole?
Air does come into the engine compartment but there is only one opening into the Intake plenum. That big long tube going from the air box to the engine is completely sealed. If there was another way that the engine was sucking in air then there would be another filter.

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Or doesn't really do anything? No doubt all would work just fine if that opening was sealed,
Ever try to breath though a pillow... it would be the same effect on the engine.

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just wondering if that works like it appears to? Probably hard to prove now, the factory guys had the all tools/equipment and sensors in engineering the cars.
Yes this is how it works... and not really hard to prove... you can seal the hole and try to start the car..it will run like crap.. your MAP sensor will probably trip, etc.

Now if your looking at a CAI (cold air induction) then the intake is different from the stock. instead of the box your using a cone filter and running it via piping down to the bottom of the engine for cold air (or using a dam) to block off the warm air...

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