Swapping Gauge Clusters - Page 3 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #31 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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OK, those are great pictures! Everything is clear now. Thanks a million! This just got a lot simpler.
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post #32 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 12:24 PM
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You're welcome. Glad to help.
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post #33 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 07:27 PM
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you can't use "stock shifter" for autostick. the autostick base (under bezel) has grooves that allow the stick to go left and right instead of just going to D 3 1. you shouldn't have a problem finding one they are a dime a dozen at the wreckers... you can look in concords, 300M, LHS, and treps anything from 2000+ should work. My trep is an 04 got my autostick from a 2002 and my cluster from an 03 300M.

Took me 10 min to install and wire. Loving it specially in this northern winter & the new traction control.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tgs View Post
Having the mileage stored in the BCM (just above the parking brake) also
solves the kilometer display problem if you have a Canadian cluster.
Just swap in a US cluster and the board in the cluster defaults to MPH,
displaying the correct speed and mileage.
If you Install EVIC there is an option to convert from metic to imperial then it wouldn't matter.

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post #34 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wishihadacharger View Post
you can't use "stock shifter" for autostick. the autostick base (under bezel) has grooves that allow the stick to go left and right instead of just going to D 3 1...
Au contraire! The movement of the A/S shifter left and right simply activates hall effect sensors that momentarily ground the up and down shift wires. He's talking about putting momentary mechanical switches at any place he chooses between those wires and ground to accomplish the same thing. I've been operating my Concordes (still with their original non-A/S shifters) that way for a few years (not using mechanical switches, but using the electronic equivalent outputs of the Puttstick).

Quote:
...you can look in concords, 300M, LHS, and treps anything from 2000+ should work...
No Concorde or LHS ever shipped from the factory with A/S. All 300M's did. Some, but not all, Intrepids did.


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs

Last edited by peva; 02-14-2013 at 07:57 PM.
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post #35 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wishihadacharger View Post
If you Install EVIC there is an option to convert from metic to imperial then it wouldn't matter.
I think it would matter because the Canadian clusters have the
KPH in large font on the outer circle of the speedometer with
MPH in small font on the inner circle.

The U.S. clusters are exactly the opposite (pictured below).

The EVIC is not going to change the painted numerals that circle the speedometer.


Last edited by tgs; 02-14-2013 at 09:22 PM.
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post #36 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, the EVIC will translate the mileage, etc, but not the actual speed. That said, I don't even have an EVIC, literally the only options my car has is a Power Drivers Seat and a "Smoker's Package" which to my understanding is just an ash tray. Regardless, I'm throwing the black Concorde faces on my gauge cluster when I get it. (As well as an OTIS.)

I just hit 33k on it today though, so since I've got a lot of time yet to spend in this car, I figure I might as well make it as good as I can to drive.
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post #37 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 10:49 PM
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Duh brain fart here... TGS thought you were talking about the digital display... totally forgot bout the painted numbers lol....

I would suggest going with an EVIC rather then an OTIS. it would allow you program features that are in your BCM (seats, lights, autolocks, etc.) and the display is a lot nicer. Besides it installs the same as an Otis.

Here is a nice thread with what it looks like and some of the functions.
Added 01 EVIC to 00 Intrepid ES (w/ pics)

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post #38 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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To my understanding they don't work in the SE...or they do work but the extra features don't due to lack of sensors or a different BCM or something. I think I'd need a 2001 SE.

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post #39 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 11:31 PM
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No, they work... I have one in mine 04 intrepid 2.7 SE. Every option that shows works except for the "tilt mirrors down when backing up" only because I don't have the auto mirrors.

I also installed an "auto head light switch" so that enabled the option for auto headlights with wipers.
with the addition of the seat from a 300m and the auto headlight switch.. the evic is functioning as though it was in the donor car it came from.

only thing is you have to make sure it come from certain years.... I believe anything from 2002 down will work for your 2000. I got mine from a 300M. Here's a site that lists the different EVICS

http://www.wjjeeps.com/evic.htm

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post #40 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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Ah, but there's still stuff you can't do supposedly.

He has it pretty much explained here:
OTIS Vs EVIC

I'll look into it, but I'm not gonna go out of my way for the extra features...truth be told, I hate chimes, I hate sentry keys (they make life very difficult when you share a small driveway) so the only thing I'd want really is the easy exit seats, but I like to think I'm not that lazy.

If and when I find the 300M leather seats, if there's one there I'll grab it for the heck of it, I guess. I can always swap 'em out.

I'll be honest though, I do like the idea of the auto-headlight switch...and I want an ATC at some point too...I've really gotta find a decent junkyard.

Last edited by COGlory; 02-14-2013 at 11:57 PM.
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post #41 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 10:14 AM
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I hear you on the chimes brother... evic allows you to disable them lol..at least mine did... I believe what features are available are limited only to what's in your BCM Perhaps someone with a 2000 and installed one can add in here as to what's available and what functions work?
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post #42 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
Au contraire! The movement of the A/S shifter left and right simply activates hall effect sensors that momentarily ground the up and down shift wires. He's talking about putting momentary mechanical switches at any place he chooses between those wires and ground to accomplish the same thing. I've been operating my Concordes (still with their original non-A/S shifters) that way for a few years (not using mechanical switches, but using the electronic equivalent outputs of the Puttstick).

No Concorde or LHS ever shipped from the factory with A/S. All 300M's did. Some, but not all, Intrepids did.
Cool didn't know that you could just use buttons... dang now I'm thinking I should have bought the steering wheel that had the thumb buttons lol...
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post #43 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wishihadacharger View Post
Cool didn't know that you could just use buttons... dang now I'm thinking I should have bought the steering wheel that had the thumb buttons lol...
The sticky wicket there is getting two switch contacts from the steering wheel to the dash wiring. The clock spring is used for that, but a trick is used to get 4 switches read by two wires. You only need to read two of the switches, but the problem is the same. The trick that Chrysler used is called resistor multiplexing - that's where each contact has a resistor in series with it. A special circut reads the value of the resistor across it to determine which switch is being pushed. You could do the same thing by building a circuit to read two of those resistors and creating two ground signals to connect to the up and down shift wires.

You could just remove the resistors, and use the 2 contact closures directly - but, again, how do you get the two signals across the clock spring that only has two wires available for these swtiches? You need two signal wires plus a ground for that to work.

Here's an idea: Use the horn circuit ground to also serve for this ground - that leaves the two radio switch clock spring wires to go to your up and down shift wires. That would work - no special resistor decoding circuit needed.


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs
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