Beeble's 1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z - Page 13 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #181 of 299 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
Bitches be like...


 
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Ok, so I couldn't get a ton done tonight but I was able to check timing, take a look. Found TDC in cylinder 1 (timing belt side) with a screw driver and tweaked it in as close as I could get it watching the end move:



looks dead nuts to me



Honestly hard to tweak in with the screw driver I landed about -1 to 4 degrees on several attempts. The last time it landed right there.



aimed at Cyl 1.



So we can rule out timing as the issue

Tomorrow I'll pick up a spark tester and rent a fuel pressure gauge, and maybe a compression tester. Seems like the cylinders are getting quite a bath in fuel, so I'm thinking at this point it's electrical.
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post #182 of 299 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 10:14 PM
get off my lawn


 
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you may want to pull the plugs and squirt a little oil down each cyl,, and spin it a few times,, dont need raw gas washing off the rings
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post #183 of 299 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 12:05 PM
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Your rotor looks pretty crappy from here (...600miles away so thats probably BS)

good luck man!
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post #184 of 299 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 02:04 PM
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Nate, if she starts giving you crap, just show her this video...

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post #185 of 299 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
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Nate, if she starts giving you crap, just show her this video...

Wow!
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post #186 of 299 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 03:19 PM
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not much left on it,






everything is butchered up, cut and yanked apart, turbo gone ecm gone,, sigh
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post #187 of 299 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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you may want to pull the plugs and squirt a little oil down each cyl,, and spin it a few times,, dont need raw gas washing off the rings
good idea, I'm gonna change the oil too anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chewievette View Post
Your rotor looks pretty crappy from here (...600miles away so thats probably BS)

good luck man!
That's been the prevailing opinion, new rotor and cap ready to go on.

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Nate, if she starts giving you crap, just show her this video...

God that thing was rust free, even on the bottom... what a crime!!

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not much left on it,






everything is butchered up, cut and yanked apart, turbo gone ecm gone,, sigh

Ug. what a shame. nothing worth grabbing eh?
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post #188 of 299 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 03:56 PM
get off my lawn


 
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not really,, only good thing inside was the dash pad,,, underhood was sad
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post #189 of 299 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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not really,, only good thing inside was the dash pad,,, underhood was sad
meh I got two, they seem to age pretty well actually.
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post #190 of 299 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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if the engines out and they are easy to get to the shifter cables are worth having. where the sill plates still there? window scrapers? I forgot to ask about those.
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post #191 of 299 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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Ok. changed the oil and dropped a strawfull of oil onto the rings through the plug holes to try save my rings. The oil was pretty bad already. I hope I didn't do any real damage. to new cap and rotor, with the help of my 4 year old (poor guy can hardly turn the key) I checked spark at the end of the coil cable, seemed consistent, but I could only pull it away from the ground about 3/8 of an inch. Put the ignition tester on the plug wires, 1st one good at 25KV, 2nd one nothing (the second time I got poked too, I think through the frame) 3rd it fired once, but again, nothing, 4th nothing, back to 1st nothing. Went back to the coil again and let it run longer and noticed it seemed to be skipping every now and then, still couldn't pull it further away from 2 different grounds.


so... bad coil?
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post #192 of 299 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 12:33 AM
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Nate if I can still get access to the information on ALLDATA, and you need some wiring diagrams, ect.. Just let me know and I will see if I can locate them..
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post #193 of 299 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Nate if I can still get access to the information on ALLDATA, and you need some wiring diagrams, ect.. Just let me know and I will see if I can locate them..
thank, I have full service manuals... so there shouldn't be too much left to chance.
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post #194 of 299 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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So here's the synopsis of my current debacle:

Engine is flooding badly on cranking, really bad. I can get a few puffs but then the system is buried in fuel and won't start... plugs foul within 10 seconds.


coolant temp tested, good
new rotor and cap.
Plug wires tested good
new plugs, properly gaped.
All grounds seem good.
coil tested good, 12V with ignition, - side is alternating with crank as expected. Getting spark at the wires.
Nothing is 180 out of time, guaranteed, possible off by a tooth somewhere, but sure seems good.
pulled fuel rail, cleaned injectors. cranked car with rail out, pattern and sequence is good, but it's sending a ton of fuel through, like full WOT fuel.
pump is NOT priming fuel pump on key turn (not until crank)
Manual actuation of ASD relay is providing erratic results in the engine bay... fan kicking on and off, other solenoids opening and closing, erratic operation of the fuel pump.
fuel pressure at the rail is good, pressure dropping after the pump is off at a rat of about 10 psi every 15 seconds (unknown if that is bad)
Compression numbers on a stone cold washed down engine Ver y strange numbers)

Cyl. 1 - 150
Cyl. 2 - 110
Cyl. 3 - 150
Cyl. 4 - 110


So yea... no idea... iz broke.
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post #195 of 299 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 04:35 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
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Do you have a harness / computer mis-match? Sounds like a computer that isn't happy, or maybe you have a really dirty ground or bad cable...
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