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Radio Help - Bad audio from left speakers

3K views 22 replies 2 participants last post by  Ronbo 
#1 · (Edited)
I have a 2002 Intrepid and the front left speakers only output a low very static-ey signal if I turn the volume up pretty high (used the balance control to isolate just that channel.)
I'm not sure what sound system I have since from what I've read they should all have rear deck speakers, but I don't have any rear speakers (unless they are just hiding under those humps with no visual grille or anything; regardless fading to rear on the stereo results in no sound at all.) I do have door speakers and in the sails with "premium sound" written on them.

I'm not sure if it's the HU or speakers or the amp (if I even have one?) Pics for sound system reference included. Since both the left door and sail speakers are messed up I would assume HU or amp?

Edit: I already plan on replacing the HU with aftermarket just anyway and don't mind replacing the door speakers with full range ones if needed. Mainly don't know if I have an amp and/or need to bypass or anything???
 

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#2 ·
Upon more research I guess the rear speakers are just "hidden" with no grilles visible making this a mid-line sound system. I went ahead and ordered a new HU but since all the speakers except the right aren't working I imagine it's the amp so if the sound doesn't work with the new HU I'll just bypass the amp and install new door speakers; new speakers or a used replacement amp are about the same price it seems.
 
#3 · (Edited)
You have a 240 watt amp located in the passenger side foot well. Should be some to be found in the junkyard cheap.

If you had a Mid-Line system those speaker pods in the front door wouldn't have "Premium Sound" molded in them. 120 watt amp in the same location as the 240 watt amp.

I doubt it's the Radio causing your issues. The amp is the most likely culprit.

Have you checked fuse 18 in the junction block at the drivers end of the dash? It's a 20A fuse for the amp.
 
#7 ·
Interesting. With the "Premium Sound" Sail speakers and the RAZ radio I would've expected the 240 watt amp.

Is your car an SE?

Can you pull one of the lower door speakers and look at the back of the magnet to see what's printed on there? Or even one of the Sail speaker pods and look at the back of the magnet on that?
 
#8 ·
Also the Midline audio didn't come with Sail Speakers. Did you add them or were they in the car when you bought it?

Same with the RAZ radio...was it already in the car or did you swap it out? RAZ is usually in the Infinity I systems (Premium Sound).

Seems like someone did some mixing/matching of speakers and components for it having the 120 watt Midline amp.

If it's an Infinity I system all the speakers will have the Infinity Logo on the back of the magnet and are 2 ohm speakers.

The Midline system will have Midline printed on the back of the speaker magnets. They're 4 ohm.
 
#9 ·
Everything is how it was when I got the car, no idea what anyone did previously though.

I'll try to check them in the morning. I did download the service manual and it sounds like the midline does have sail speakers, this is a c/p from the manual:

Code:
MIDLINE SYSTEM The Midline System includes:
² AM-FM radio with cassette player.
² AM-FM stereo radio with CD/cassette.
² A compact 120 watt power amplifier with four
output channels.
² Two 2.5 inch, round single-cone speakers in the
lower front corners of the front door windows.
² Two 6.5 inch, round single-cone speakers in the
front doors.
² Two 6 x 9-inch, full range speakers mounted in
the rear shelf panel.
 
#10 ·
What I meant to say was a Midline Audio package wouldn't have door sail speakers that say "Premium Sound" on them. The housings wouldn't have any Logo or markings on them. Just black plastic all over.

I suspect someone swapped the radio and the sail speakers before you got the car.

The markings on the back of the lower door speaker will most likely tell you it's Midline that was in the car originally.

Again is your car an Intrepid SE?
 
#13 ·
Best to use a Midline amp with it then. A 240 watt amp bolts/plugs in but the speaker impedance is different for that amp.
 
#15 ·
Scratch that, the blue wire had pulled out of the wiring adapter (the actual connector, not my crimps); I stuck it back in and taped it so it won't move and I have sound again. Unfortunately no change so I guess it is the speakers after all (or the wiring, but I really really hope not.)
 
#16 ·
Wonder if the previous owner funked up some of the wiring?

You say both the Left door Sail and Lower door speaker don't work? Swap one or both from the right side and do a quick check. If that doesn't do anything....then time to check the wiring.

Did you have the plastic trim covers off when you were dealing with the amp? Wonder if there was some cut/splice going on in that area for the wiring?
 
#17 ·
And when you talked about installing the aftermarket HU you indicated connecting both blue wires? Which exactly were these? I ask because the amp turn on wire from an aftermarket is typically a Blue wire. Do you have a wiring harness adapter for the HU? Was that the other Blue wire you were talking about? Or are you splicing into the factory car wiring? A blue wire in the actual car harness itself?

The amp turn on wire in the car factory harness is a Dark Green wire with a Red stripe. That's where your HU power on/amp on Blue wire should be connected to. If you're connecting to the Dark Blue/White or Orange stripe wires in the car harness that's the output to the right rear speaker!

Check those connections.
 
#18 ·
Everything looked intact in the amp wiring, I just had the one plastic panel off that you have to take off to get to it. If you change the balance to left and crank the volume you can hear sound (but very static-ey) in at least the sail speaker; I'll try swapping the speakers tomorrow too though.

On the blue wire, it is the amp turn on from the aftermarket radio's harness to the OEM-to-aftermarket adapter (Metra) harness; it just fell out of the Metra's connector and I had to push it in and tape it so it wouldn't fall out again. That restored the sound back to how it was with the stock HU.

I wish they made an amp bypass cable, all they would have to do is duplicate the socket on the amp and put in 8 pins. If the speakers work when swapped I'll probably just bypass the sub and install new speakers; just hate to chop up the factory wiring.
 
#19 · (Edited)
I wish they made an amp bypass cable, all they would have to do is duplicate the socket on the amp and put in 8 pins. If the speakers work when swapped I'll probably just bypass the sub and install new speakers; just hate to chop up the factory wiring.
There's a Sub in the car? If so where's the amp for it and how is it connected? That might be your problem right there. The OEM systems don't have a Sub.

You failed to mention that in your earlier posts.
 
#20 ·
PAC Audio used to make a "Amp Bypass" wiring adapter kit. Might still be some to be found on the interwebs. They also used have plug-n-play LOC kits with the wiring adapter to add a Sub easily to the stock system. I think I have one or two of them new laying around.

Otherwise there are cheap wiring adapters on Ebay that you need to solder up and make work.
 
#22 ·
Putting the right door speakers into the left door does result in good sound. I don't know how the previous owners could have blown all the speakers except one door, that's nuts.

Thanks for all your help, hopefully I'll just be installed new speakers and be gtg now.
 
#23 ·
Aftermarket speakers should be 4 ohm same as the OEM Midline if you're going to replace them.
 
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