So I started talking about this in my door pods thread, but I figured now I'm far enough this deserves a thread of it's own.
This whole plan was dependent on getting a DSP to go active. For those of you who aren't sure what I mean, that's using a sound processor to apply the crossovers to the signal before the amps, and then amplify the tweeters and woofers separately. This gives you a whole new world of tuning possibilities compared to using off the shelf audio gear.
My awesome parents who still like to see my smile like a little kid on Christmas got me my miniDSP 2x8 with DigiFP I/O card. Here it is out of the box, just a big circuit board. Look at the RCA connectors on it for a size reference, it's almost as big as a typical amp.
I built a nice little box for it that I'll grab pictures of later that turned out pretty cool for a cheap and functional solution.
I built new RCA interconnects to hook this up to the amps. Nice dual shielded coaxial video wire, professional grade stuff. The DSP being in the trunk also means very short runs and not exposed to really any of the other electronics in the car by proximity. The DSP gets it's signal from a digital sound card in a laptop over a toslink cable.
Here is a sample image of what the software interface looks like. This page is where most of the action happens. The other tabs are activating the right inputs and outputs that you want to use and choosing the correct signal to go to the correct output.
Here is the routing page.
Here is an example of a crossover setup page.
Here is an EQ page. Every single input and output channel has it's own full parametric EQ, so you can correct on a per driver basis as well as a total system basis. This will let me correct for issues like reflections that are unique to the left and right sides separately.
I just spend a couple of hours tuning with the DSP software, wow is this stuff cool. When the laptop connects to the DSP all changes are applied in real time, so I actually could get a decent tune (without EQing) by ear. Mute all channels except corresponding L and R of same driver, and slowly attenuate the near driver down until the sound is coming from the center of the dash. Then do the same thing with the other drivers.
I really like being able to mess with crossover points in real time. I can actually tell very distinct differences in sound when I shift the crossover frequencies, even if only by relatively small margins.
One of the best parts is my noise floor is amazing. On a good audio file it's almost absolutely nothing, even amplified to ear bleeding levels during only vocals.
Now I need to get it to final install phase so I can actually enjoy it. Right now everything is just sitting in the trunk for testing and I need to run a wire to the IGN power circuit for the laptop turn on/power lead. It'll automatically boot up when I turn the key, and not stay on to drain the battery when the car shuts off (It'll hibernate after 15-20 minutes, that way if you're just getting gas or running inside it'll stay on for you off the laptop's battery).
I'll get a ton of pictures for you guys, but for now it's time for a break. I'll be back at it late tonight I'm sure.