Rust help, cost to fix/difficulty - Page 2 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-22-2011, 01:12 PM
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Yep. Nailing down American made is like nailing Jello to a wall! Hondas are certainly made in the U.S. as are many of the other Japanese and Korean cars, but the corporate entity is not American. Many Chryslers are made in Canada or Mexico, and with its Fiat ownership, is it actually an American car company? What about GM and Ford? So, which car company is the most American? From what I recall seeing somewhere, I think one of the Toyota models has the highest % of domestic content. Is a Toyota an American car?

Bottom line is that I'm glad they are employing American workers!
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-22-2011, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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It's blurry, but if you see at the bottom it does say vehicle made in U.S.A. And if you look at the top right it says date of mfg: 8-95. It's a 96 intrepid.
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-22-2011, 01:20 PM
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Cool - you got one of the rare ones. I'll have to check my door this weekend, I've got a 1994.
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-22-2011, 03:34 PM
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I didn't know any were made in the U.S. You can tell from the VIN number also. If it's a "1," it was made in the U.S. Most of our VINs are a "2" for Canada.
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-23-2011, 05:02 AM
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Good to hear

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Originally Posted by Sterling View Post
Haha, I forgot about this old post, but my intrepid's rust has gotten far worse, but it's whatever. The frame is in surprisingly good shape though, I get my car new york state inspected every year and never once had them even mention it. I just had the subframe bushings replaced and transmission mount because they were all rusted and rotten and the car drives so much better. Everything runs well in the car and I hate to see it get junked when it runs so well.
Good to hear you made the right decision and didn't waste a lot of money on the bodywork, but instead put the money into the suspension for safety. Like I said just have the mechanic keep checking the brake and fuel line condition and suspension when you take it in for regular service. The lines are easy to replace when the car is on a lift. And to keep it going, change all those fluids including having the brake fluid flushed/refilled and the system bled of air every couple of years. The brake fluid change isn't in the maintenance schedule but it's very important since the fluid degrades in about two years and can damage the brake parts, especially if you have anti-lock brakes. And hardly anyone ever changes the power steering fluid using the turkey baster like I described, but that helps the power steering pump last longer.

Keeping it clean and waxed will prevent further rusting on the body. In the winter on a warmer day, spray off the underside to remove the road salt and grime to limit any new rust there.

Last edited by pt500; 11-25-2011 at 12:01 PM. Reason: clarify
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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-13-2012, 08:20 AM
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Doesn't matter where it's made. If that were the case, Apple would be a Chinese company.
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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 08:28 PM
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Looks good!

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Originally Posted by 99WhiteTrepES View Post
I'll add to this old thread by posting a few photos from this summer's rust repair of the '99 Intrepid. The only rust was right below the gas filler. It was mostly bubbles until my son (it's his car now) scraped a stone wall and tore into the same area. The photos show the before, during (with different colors of filler) and after photos. The repair looked really good before I painted it, but I decided to paint it with a brush (because I had the right touch-up color). It was just too large an area to do with a brush for the white and the clear coat. It's not too bad for a 20-foot repair. I'm sure it won't last too long, but it will look better for a few years!
That looks pretty good! Yes, this shows that you can do acceptable "10 footer" bodywork on small rust areas at home (i.e. looks decent at those distances) if you remove all the rust, fill with layers of bondo (maybe with some reinforcing screen), sand smooth, prime and paint with a small can of custom mixed lacquer or enamel from an auto paint store and the inexpensive little spray cannisters and jar gizmo that they sell. The lacquer primer/paint/clear coat spray cans (e.g. Dupli-Color) from the regular auto parts stores will sometimes work OK too.

Be aware that any lacquer paint can bubble the adjacent existing factory enamel paint and make a mess that has to be sanded off and re-done. Lacquer can work IF you use many VERY light coats and allow them to fully dry in between - this can avoid the bubbling. Lacquer is easier to shine up with polishing compound than enamel. You do this after the paint coats (wash off all the polishing compound and dry thoroughly) and then top with clear coat and polish again.

The professional auto paint store can mix up a quart of either lacquer or enamel to exactly match your car's year & color of paint (and supply the matching type of primer and clear coat needed) . Especially with the enamel you have to use the multiple light coats to avoid drips which would have to be sanded out when dry, which is a big hassle. Unlike fast-drying lacquer, enamel can take many days to dry before you can sand any defects out. So lacquer is much more forgiving if you can avoid the bubbling. (Also safer if you accidentally breath any of it in.)

Just make sure with either type of paint to use a good filter mask like a 3M with two round organic vapor cartridges to not breath in the paint spray. The paint shop has these masks and cartridges, and some hardware stores have them. Also obviously wear safety goggles or glasses and an old baseball hat (the fine spray will drift into your hair). Some types of professional enamel are not safe to spray this way without a fully enclosed mask/breather set-up, so be sure to ask the paint store for an appropriate paint that you can use just with the 3M mask. Just tell the paint store guy/gal what you want to do; they are usually helpful to do-it-yourselfers (if not, just try another auto paint store).

When sanding the bondo and primer smooth with wet/dry auto sandpaper (working from course to fine grit), use the 3M cartridges made just for particles or the best 3M microfiber particles masks.

Again this isn't going to be a body-shop quality repair, but it can make the car look decent for around $100 in supplies and a little careful work. There are lots of books and on-line guides on how to to these basic body/paint fixes on small rust areas.

Last edited by pt500; 06-30-2012 at 08:44 PM. Reason: add details
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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 10:36 PM
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Just went to body shop number two. "We don't guarantee rust." "Don't bother."
Wow these guys stink.

Better get MAACO. They advertise some advanced anti-rust techniques including acid-etching, whatever that is. If they'll give me a lift, that's where it's going.
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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 02:46 AM
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MAACO can kiss my ass they are the worst at painting
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