How To: Fuel Pump Removal/Replacement - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 03-18-2005, 01:22 PM
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Question How To: Fuel Pump Removal/Replacement

In this How To, we shall replace the Fuel Pump.

Before you begin, know that this is for the first generation LH cars;
1993-1997 year, Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, New Yorker, Vision. Also, make sure that your fuel tank is near empty before doing this. In a perfect world, tank would be completely empty before doing this.
Fuel pump on the First generation includes; Pump, Sender, Fuel Level Sensor. If any of these are giving you problems - or are diagnosed as broken, this is where you will find them.
Also keep in mind that my 1993 Concorde has a different electrical plugs on the pump itself than my 1997 LHS. In 1997 Chrysler changed the connector on the fuel pump for 1997 models. But, as you read, you will see a pic where this change is done. I've posted both.

- Screwdriver (Flathead).
- Sockets set (Metric or SAE).
- A Vaccuum Cleaner (the one with "blow" job capabilities is good too )
- Replacement Fuel Pump
- Lotsa Shop Towels (There will be fuel spilling everywhere. No way around it.)
- Good Lungs for breathing in gas fumes.
- Nicorrette or NicoDerm CQ, or a Fire Extinguisher.

- 2 beers


Here we go:


- Disconnect the Fuel Pump Relay, or Auto Shutdown Relay.
- Crank the engine 3 times in 15 sec. intervals. Make sure that you pause for 60 seconds when you crank between each crank. Point here is to crank the engine, draw the fuel into the engine, but not start it. If you crank for longer than 10-15 seconds, you might damage your starter due to overheating.. SO make sure you pause and let it cool off for about 30 seconds to a minute.
Crank-Crank-Crank...... (for 15 seconds)
PAUSE (60 seconds)
Crank-Crank-Crank...... (15 seconds)
PAUSE (60 Seconds)
Crank-Crank-Crank...... (15 seconds)

This will make sure the fuel lines which you will be disconnecting are not under pressure (or less pressure) before you disconnect the fuel lines.

Now, you're ready to start working:
Fuel pump is located in the fuel tank. Fuel tank access is located in the trunk.

1. Open the trunk.
2. Remove the spare tire.

3. Now remove the carpeting that covers the trunk, not the whole thing, but partially so that you can see the Fuel Access Door. That silver hatch with for nuts holding it, that's what you need to open.

Here is what the access door looks like, up close:

5. Nuts are 10mm I believe. Remove them

6. Now that you removed the nuts, bolts will stick out, you will need a flathead screwdriver to pry the hatch open. Make sure you don't bend it, it is aluminum, and it has some sealing around it. Don't worry, you aren't opening the Fuel Tank just yet.. Opening this hatch will expose the top of the tank which is... Top of the Fuel Pump, yay! Here is the pic what it will look like;

To the Right - Bottom, it's the electrical plug. Small hose next to plug, this is the FUEL VENTING. If there was no fuel venting, tank would squeeze all the gas out and since there is no air to replace this gas volume, tank would crush. Kinda like soda bottle if you don't let it "breathe." Next plastic line is the RETURN line. Top hose line is the FEED line (Goes to the engine.)

Here is the picture of it, up close. Yes it's dirty, so let's look at it:

Now - I don't like to have dirt around where I work. And for sure; I don't want to have dirt enter the fuel tank. So, let's clean it up a bit; now a vacuum cleaner/blower will come in handy. First vacuum clean what you can, then brush off what you can, then put the vacuum cleaner on "blowjob" and blow off any remaining dirt.. Get it as nice as you can.. but don't use any cleaning solutions.

7. Take off the electrical plug next.
You will notice that on 1993-1996 cars, plug is RED.
On 1997 cars, plug is white.
Be careful, don't break this plug..
Plugs are different on 1993 and 1997 cars, therefore fuel pump is not interchangeable. (Unless you rig it, which I don't recommend. FIRE!)
Plug on a 1993 has 5 holes and 4 wires. You see.. Middle spot on the plug is not used.
Plug on a 1997 has 4 holes and 4 wires. Yes, they eliminated that 1 empty spot. Plug is smaller.
Here is a pic of what it will look like on 1993-1996 LH cars;

Here is a picture of the plug from a 1997 Chrysler LHS:

And here is the plug on 1993 Chrysler Concorde:



Before the next step put out all the cigarettes, any flames you have around you or any hot lights that you have close to the car.

I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS or STUPIDITY in the next step! Consider this your WARNING.

9. Locate ring that holds the Fuel Pump Assembly to the fuel tank.

Here is the picture, and where to find it.. It should also give you a rough idea of how to loosen it. Keep in mind that it's not necessary to remove the ring, just loosen it enough.

10. Loosen the ring like this:
You will know when the ring is loose enough, cuz the fuel pump will actually pop up about 2 inches, as if it's jumping out of your trunk.
If it doesn't pop, keep loosening.. If it still doesn't pop, might have to pull the whole thing to make it jump.. LoL.

Yes, that's a 9/32 socket I used to loosen the ring screw. It fits fine. I don't know what it would be in millimeters (mm). I tried all my metric (mm) sockets and they didn't grip as good as 9/32 SAE.

11. Disconnect the Fuel Lines, all lines
Now after the fuel pump pops up, disconnect all the fuel lines that are attached to it. Be careful! Use only your fingers to do this.. Get help if you need to, someone stronger. If you brake the little clips that are on the lines, you are screwed. Hence, use only your hands, don't even think about pliers or screwdrivers. These clips are ABS plastic, and will break if forced. If this happens, you will need to replace your fuel line.. which means A TOW TRUCK TO THE SHOP.

12.Now that pump is loose from the fuel tank, and Lines have been disconnected, start lifting it out.
Now is the time for shop towels. There is about 1 Quart of Fuel still left inside the Fuel Pump Assembly. And it will spill if you tilt the pump.
So, what I do is, tilt the pump left and right, left and right until at least half of the fuel spills back into the tank before I remove the pump.
I mean, fuel will spill, no doubt, get the towels ready.

Once you manage to get the pump out, find a container, dump the remaining fuel in it. Use it later for a BBQ/Fireplace/Sister's wardrobe.. whatever.

The pump looks like this now: Out of the car:

See the little windows on the pump, this is where you'll have to do most fuel spilling. I kno, It's pretty deep. So, be ready for it.

Picture is of a 1997 pump, but 1993 looks the same, with exception of electrical connectors (see pics above.)

Now, if you look carefully, they are made by WALBRO;

This is the picture of the top part of my 1993 Concorde Pump:
You can see the part number on ot as well:

Chrysler Logo.

If you are experiencing problems with the FUEL GAUGE acting up, it's the little circuit board on the side of the pump, it looks like this:

You can't replace it, don't even try, just get a new pump, it's time you did that anyhow. LoL.

As you can see, it's a pretty simple mechanism.

Arm of the pump moves with the level of fuel, and it's scratching the little circuit board made by "DACO". If the tank was 47 thousand times filled and emptied, this board has a lot of wear on it, hence, it won't sometimes display fuel level in your instrument cluster correctly (or at all. Or your gas gauge will jump around..)

I hope by now you see how all systems work.

Installation of a new pump is easier than removal, just make sure that you took off all the plastic/sealing/oil off the new unit befire you install it.
Check inside of the pump as well, there might be dirt in it. Vacuum it if possible, don't wash.

Hope this helps everyone.

Last edited by JE.Electronics; 10-04-2006 at 04:36 PM.
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 09-11-2008, 02:18 PM
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