Bad Inner Tie Rod Bushings - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-20-2016, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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Bad Inner Tie Rod Bushings

Hi, all. First posting for me.

I have a 1996 Chrysler Concorde in need of either new inner tie rods, or inner tie rod bushings.

I have spent much time on Google, YouTube, etc., looking for ways to gain access to the retaining bolts, but the information I have seen so far hasn't helped much. Some have suggested removing the cowling underneath the wiper arms, and even the wiper motor itself, but I see little room to be gained by removing the cowling since it is attached to a protruding part of the firewall. Not sure about the wiper motor just yet.

This car has the big 3.5 engine (LXi model), and I need to remove the plastic air intake tubing behind the aluminum intake plenum before I can even get to the retaining bolts.

How can I get this (tubing) out? Will I have to remove a wiring junction box attached to the passenger side strut area first?

Be glad to post some pictures if need be.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-21-2016, 12:38 PM
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You have to junk the whole car.

Just kidding. I know on the 2nd gen, which is the same rack, you do have to remove the cowling. Never messed with 1st gens. - someone familiar with them should be along shortly to answer.

- I just wanted to get my "junk the whole car" joke in.
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-21-2016, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Hehe. Thanks for posting anyway! Nice looking car you have there!

Here's a photo of the car...

8544-R1-12-12A.jpg

Last edited by rusty; 09-21-2016 at 03:40 PM.
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-21-2016, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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As you can see below, the wiring junction box is in close proximity to the air intake tubing...

0921161524-01.jpg

Here is a shot of the tubing itself...

0921161524-02.jpg

Has anyone ever owned a 1996 era Concorde LXi model, and what procedure did it take to gain access to the inner tie rod bolts?

Last edited by rusty; 09-21-2016 at 03:46 PM.
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-21-2016, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty View Post
Hehe. Thanks for posting anyway! Nice looking car you have there!

Here's a photo of the car...

Attachment 32401
Thanks! Concordes FTW, eh!

Your paint looks nice - I assume a re-paint. If so, mine is too.
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-21-2016, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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No, that's not a repaint, but it's not a recent photo either. The car has only 73,000 miles on it.
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-21-2016, 08:24 PM
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Hey Rusty - here's a link to a thread where I did them. In the beginning, there's a link to a few How-To pages.

Inner & Outer Tie Rod Change (Pictures)

It's for a second Gen, but the first Gen is very similar.

Late!
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-21-2016, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Many thanks, Scooter!

I saw some informative links and photos to pore over, but I haven't seen anything pertaining to removing my air intake tubing yet. I can loosen it from the plenum, but removing the tubing altogether seems almost impossible without removing that wiring junction I referred to.

I see no benefit by removing the cowling.
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-24-2016, 02:16 PM
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Try seeing if swinging the wheel all the way to one side or the other will give you an easier access point. On the 3.3 it is not that hard by just removing the coil pack and swinging the wheel to the left. On the 3.5 I don't know how you would go about it, less room for sure.
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-24-2016, 04:36 PM
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I did some searching in the 1994 LH FSM. Should be very similar to a 1996 if not the same. Chapter 19 is the only one that appears to outline getting to the steering rack and the inner tie rods. If you want I can host that chapter and link to it for you. It's in PDF format.

Browsing through it it indicates you do have to take the wiper arms off along with the cowl and the wiper assembly to get down there. Let me know if you want me to host it for you.

Last edited by Ronbo; 09-24-2016 at 04:43 PM.
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-24-2016, 04:46 PM
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See if this link works:

https://1drv.ms/b/s!AtUNM1Buhpnlg5EzJ93NF-pzNaXMVw

Pertinent information starts on page 19.
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-24-2016, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Ronbo, I really appreciate the pdf! All I have is a Chilton manual, and I don't think it goes into the same detail. Is the whole Chrysler factory service manual available for download? Also, when you say LH, is that another term for the cab-forward design?


EDIT: I found this...

Chrysler Defines Cab-Forward and the Second-Generation LH Cars' Styling

Last edited by rusty; 09-24-2016 at 09:21 PM.
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-24-2016, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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Still doesn't say anything about how to remove the plastic air intake plenum. I'm assuming I'll need to remove the junction box in spite of it all (looks like it has been removed before judging by one of the missing plastic fasteners).

I can loosen the plastic plenum from the metal air intake ports, but there is not enough of clearance to remove the plastic plenum itself.
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-24-2016, 10:03 PM
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It shows the air intake tubing being removed in figure 4 of that section I linked to. It's on page 20. The step just before that is removing the "Cowl Closure Panel" by taking out six screws. That panel is shown in both of your pictures over the intake tubing. It looks like if you remove the cowl closure panel you'll have room to get the intake tubing off. You'll need to remove both wiper arms first to get the cowl panel off.

(6) Remove both wiper arm assemblies from wiper
arm pivots.

(7) Remove the 6 screws attaching cowl closure
panel to cowl. Remove the cowl closure panel and
weatherstrip as an assembly from the cowl (Fig. 3).

(8) Disconnect air plenum from throttle bodies,
PCV make up air tube and idle air control motor.
Remove plenum from the right side of the vehicle

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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 01:53 PM
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I had a 3.3 so I'm not 100% positive with the 3.5, but there should be 2 clamps (1 per throttle body), then take it of the air box, and it should come out. I would also suggest you to remove the cowl, and whole wiper assembly to gain easier access to the tie rods. Also get the 2 piece Moog bushings they last longer and are a lot easier to install.
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