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Sub-frame bushings

2K views 3 replies 2 participants last post by  peva 
#1 ·
I am replacing most of my front end parts including sub-frame bushing on my 03 concorde 2.7. I read several post regarding install but am not clear about torque spec because different numbers have been thrown around on the front and rear bolts.

The service manual show a section on sub-frame but does not label them as sub-frame Text Line Diagram Font Design


These are how bad mine are
Auto part Rust Vehicle brake Machine Disc brake
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Does anyone know the true numbers on the bolts?

Also should I got with Dorman 100$ for a set of 4 because they come with the bolts?

Or should I get Johnny's Poly ones? But his don't come with the bolts and I am worried that my original bolts might strip or other.


Thanks in advance
 

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#2 ·
That torque value strangely is not any place you might expect in the FSM, but instead is hidden in a procedure on adjusting cross-camber (AKA camber bias) in which you loosen the 4 bushing bolts, hold the engine cradle (sub-frame) in a rotated position, and then tighten the bolts to 163 N•m (120 ft-lbs) (see page 2-56 of the 2002 FSM - similar in other years - under "CAMBER BIAS" heading).

I would definitely get the bushings from Johnny if he still has them. A couple of people have tried the Dormans, and two if them don't fit worth a darn, and I wouldn't trust their quality anyway.

I think you can buy the bolts - will have to search to see if that's been posted somewhere, but you could start by looking in the parts pdf's (http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/113-se...information/161125-2nd-gen-parts-catalog.html) and check with a dealer (on-line or otherwise) for availability. The specs might be in the parts pdf's description. Look on the heads of your bolts to see what class they are (probably 8.8 or 10.9), and get that.

OK - so parts pdf says front bolts are Chrysler P/N 6505731AA and rear bolts are 6505730AA (the two-letter suffix may be different on newest Chrysler bolts if they still sell them), but they give no thread and length spec. I see some on ebay (search "Chrysler 6505731AA" and "Chrysler 6505730AA"). Looks like you'll spend close to $100 anyway. You might get the Dorman set just to get the bolts (if they're good bolts) and throw the bushings away. I'd rather spend the same money on the OEM bolts on ebay.
 
#3 ·
Thanks Peva you are a great help here. My friend and I will install all parts and then get an alignment after. Should we be using an impact gun or a breaker bar to remove the bolt on the sub-frame bushings? Also is it best to W.D 40 the bolts before removal?
 
#4 ·
Thanks Peva you are a great help here. My friend and I will install all parts and then get an alignment after. Should we be using an impact gun or a breaker bar to remove the bolt on the sub-frame bushings?...
Not sure about impact wrench vs. breaker bar - try both. :)
Also is it best to W.D 40 the bolts before removal?
Everybody thinks WD40 is a penetrating oil. It's not. Use either PB Blaster or Kroil - true penetrating oils.
 
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