300m Special (impulse purchase) Noise passenger side wheel - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 02:22 AM Thread Starter
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300m Special (impulse purchase) Noise passenger side wheel

Hi Guys

So Saturday I found this 300m Special in a shed in a quarry and ended up buying the car for $1200. Not crazy enough? I then drove it a 100 miles home. Spend the last 2 days getting quarry dust out of every nook and cranny. Pretty sure the car now weighs less

On the (scary) drive home I heard a constant very fast knocking sound from the front passenger side wheel. Come and goes. On inspection at home I saw the passenger side drive axle inner boot rubber was torn. From past experience the outer CV makes a noise when turning. Will the inner make a noise while driving straight on the highway. It seems logical but I just wanted to get possible confirmation. I am replacing it anyway but it still bugs me.

I still have a bad power steering fluid leak to find, excessive play on the steering, bad brakes and whatever else pops ups along the way to sort out. I knew I was buying a lot of work but I just love the 300m. Had a base which I sold in December and here I am again hehe.
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 08:28 AM
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No personal experience on a bad inner joint, but I've always read that they are generally quiet when not under load, not affected by turning, but may make noise when accelerating or decelerating.

For the p.s. leak, check for a rusted thru metal line running along the engine compartment side of the driver side fender - a few here have had that happen. Could be other places too - you just have to visually track it down. If a p.s. line is rusted thru, also check for heavy pitting of metal brake lines on driver's side just ahead of rear wheels, and to/from anti-lock brake module underneath PDC. Replace if bad - they will rupture with moderate to heavy braking.

For loose steering, inner tie rod bushings are the first suspect, followed by outer tie rods and rack mount bushings.

Give some serious thought to replacing the timing belt and water pump in light of the 100kmile/7 year limits. Good luck on a water pump. I understand that even the ones from the dealer are suspect these days.


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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feedback...

I would not wait for the inner to get bad if it had been my car, but I have no idea if the previous owner just drove it until it got this bad. The boot could have torn months ago... who knows. It needs replacing anyway so I will start with that. The loose steering I also considered the inner tie rod bushing so I will start with that. I have done it before on my previous 300m.

Your advice on the rusted line paid off. I am pretty confident that's the problem. A quick visual showed the lines were covered with dirt and grime at the driver side. The highest point where I found oil. I'll clean things up and see if I can find the leak over there, but I am confident I will.

The timing belt is a concern. I have replaced one before myself so I know the procedure. I don't want to leave it for too late but once I get all the stuff sorted out that makes the car inoperable (like brakes and steering) I will look at giving it a major service (belts and liquids).
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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After some more stripping it seems that the inner tie rod bushes are fine. I now suspect the excessive play may be the steering coupler. For some reason there is a boot over it so I cant be sure.

Have to figure out a way to remove the boot.

Anyone removed the U coupler before?
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-07-2016, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so I fitted a new CV axle and it much better but not solved.

The shaft coming out of the differential has a lot of play and is noisy when i move it around. Now I did go read old post and I know the shaft is supposed to be loose but wow this loose and this noisy? I move the axle shaft up and down there it enters the differential and turning it from side to side produces a loud clang.

My PS leak is now solved ( i hope ). Had additional issues when I refilled with PS fluid in stead of ATF+4. Got it drained and resolved the issue.
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-08-2016, 07:33 AM
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When you drive it, do you still hear noise? If so, is it the same noise you heard before replacing the axle when driving it, just quieter now? Are you hearing rhythmic noise as the wheels turn from corroded areas on the rotors where the pads sat against the rotor in the same place for a long time in storage, i.e., rusted/pitted areas in the shape of the pads on the rotors?
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-08-2016, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
When you drive it, do you still hear noise? If so, is it the same noise you heard before replacing the axle when driving it, just quieter now? Are you hearing rhythmic noise as the wheels turn from corroded areas on the rotors where the pads sat against the rotor in the same place for a long time in storage, i.e., rusted/pitted areas in the shape of the pads on the rotors?
I am hearing a noise I would associate with a bad CV or even a faulty prop-shaft. Same noise as before but quieter yes. Something with play which shifts when driving. It goes away during acceleration and braking. I hear it when coasting or on a bad road surface. Its not the rotors - its not that kind of sound. I would have guessed a bad strut since it sounds like it. What worries me though is the differential. It just seems way to loose - I am going to try to make a video of the axle movement.
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-08-2016, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Video

Not sure how to embedd a video but here is a link

https://www.youtube.com/embed/hDQBYDWs7DA
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-08-2016, 09:46 PM
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I can't really say for sure, partly because of camera motion in sync with the movement of the axle (I realize that's because you're holding the camera in one hand and moving the axle with the other), and also small motion from bushing clearance at the stub shaft gets amplified by the length of the DOJ that the camera is looking at, plus there's also some additional play between the DOJ and the stub shaft.

I agree that that is some noise that it makes. You might have a problem, but can't say for sure.

I think there has been one thread about someone who actually did have a problem in the diff. that was real. You might search for that on the chance that it might have the same problem.


To embed youtubes, using your video as an example:

Your URL is https://www dot youtube dot com/watch?v=hDQBYDWs7DA

Take the part after '?v=', and put it between youtube bookends, like this: (yt)hDQBYDWs7DA(/yt) (replace open/close parentheses with open/close brackets, i.e., [ ]).

Normally there is a button for the youtube bookends in the "GO ADVANCED" post window, but there are problems in the forum right now and that feature is missing until they fix everything.

Here's your video. You probably have it figured out by now, but to see the exact syntax that I described, just hit the "Quote" button as if you were going to quote this post:



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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-09-2016, 01:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks!

I read a bit more about the 42LE transmission which is what I have it seems. Looking at diagrams and descriptions of similar issues I suspect a bad bearing in the differential. The bearing is not expensive, the problem is I am not sure whether it is possible to remove the differential without pulling the transmission. The other problem I have is fitting the bearing. Not sure if it is pressed onto the shaft. I found a used transmission locally for $200 but then I only have the sellers word to go on and we all know how much thats worth.
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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-09-2016, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johandj73 View Post
Thanks!

I read a bit more about the 42LE transmission which is what I have it seems. Looking at diagrams and descriptions of similar issues I suspect a bad bearing in the differential. The bearing is not expensive, the problem is I am not sure whether it is possible to remove the differential without pulling the transmission. The other problem I have is fitting the bearing. Not sure if it is pressed onto the shaft. I found a used transmission locally for $200 but then I only have the sellers word to go on and we all know how much thats worth.
I got one from a salvage yard delivered (50 miles) for $250.00.. It ended up being a MOPAR factory rebuilt with <20,000 miles. A 2.7 tranny has same gearing as Special trans. Regular M/Intrepid/Concord trans will also work but final gearing is different than Special or 2.7 transmission. Might be less expensive expanding search for low mileage 2.7 tranny vs search for 300M Special.

Only other difference is harnesses 98-01 has different harness than 02-04. Save reuse your old harness for whatever you end up with for a tranny.
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-09-2016, 09:09 AM
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If you do have more luck finding a transaxle with "standard" gearing, you would convert it to the Special/2.7 gearing by swapping out the transfer chain and 2 sprockets (located behind cover at rear of differential) from your transaxle.
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-09-2016, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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If you do have more luck finding a transaxle with "standard" gearing, you would convert it to the Special/2.7 gearing by swapping out the transfer chain and 2 sprockets (located behind cover at rear of differential) from your transaxle.
Not sure if I even have the special transmission in there. The previous owner told me the fitted a new transmission 2 years ago.
Not sure if new meant new (i doubt it) most probably used but new to this car I think I am going to see if it is possible to remove the differential while the tranny is in the car. That can be any transmission for all I know.

I have a bad feeling that either they didn't but oil into the differential or the preload on the bearing wasn't set correctly.
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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-09-2016, 12:58 PM
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You may already understand this, but just in case, FYI:

1) If they had the wrong (standard, i.e., not Special/2.7) gearing in there but did not change the PCM or tweak the speed ratio in the firmware, your speedometer readings would be off by 6.something%. At 60mph indicated, actual speed would be about 64mph.

2) The transmission itself would not be any different for standard vs. Special/2.7. The different ratio is determined by that transfer chain and sprocket set that goes on the transmission output shaft and differential input shaft.
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-09-2016, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johandj73 View Post
I have a bad feeling that either they didn't but oil into the differential or the preload on the bearing wasn't set correctly.
Oil level is easy to check. However IF there were no oil, wouldn't it go BOOM pretty quickly?
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