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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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another ATC problem

Hello all and happy thanksgiving!
I am thankful for sites like this and all the great people who help others.
The reason I post today is figure out what is wrong with our 2000 300M. It started out with the Automatic Temperature Control,ATC display going off. The " slap the dash" would bring it back. Then I took the ATC apart and soldered the resistors as described on this site - the display works correctly. Now the blower only blows through the defroster vent, it won't switch to the side or floor vents. I did the diagnostic codes scan via the three button method and it came back at first with a code 24, so I ordered a mode door actuator (has not arrived yet). Just out of curiosity, I did the scan again, now it only shows a code 36. I tried two other ATC units(from pick and pull) and they also provide a code 36. Code 36 means " loss of communication" with the BCM.
So - where do I go from here? Any suggestions?

Last edited by laser3kw; 11-22-2012 at 01:10 PM.
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 01:16 PM
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Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes to reset the BCM. Reconnect the battery and run the ATC diagnostics again via the 3 buttons. That should reset the ATC and get rid of the "Communication" code.
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 02:40 PM
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Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes to reset the BCM. Reconnect the battery and run the ATC diagnostics again via the 3 buttons. That should reset the ATC and get rid of the "Communication" code.
Is this similar to the Transmission DTC "Battery Was Disconnected"?
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 03:07 PM
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The ATC will always show the Communications error code after disconnecting it from the car wiring harness without disconnecting the battery first. If that was the case(good probability) then disconnecting the battery while working on the ATC will prevent that. The ATC has power to it at all times. You might notice when you open the drivers door that the aspirator motor in the ATC will run for a little bit even without the key in the ignition.
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 03:20 PM
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To be honest, this system has been so reliable over the years that anyone specializing in it would be on par with the Maytag repairman. I have done so few repairs on these, other than the display solder connections, that I didn't know. I did however note that the aspirator motor inlet grille does tend to collect lots of lint and debris. I cleaned mine out this past summer.

Waiting to hear if Laser3kw's problem is solved.
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laser3kw View Post
Hello all and happy thanksgiving!
I am thankful for sites like this and all the great people who help others.
The reason I post today is figure out what is wrong with our 2000 300M. It started out with the Automatic Temperature Control,ATC display going off. The " slap the dash" would bring it back. Then I took the ATC apart and soldered the resistors as described on this site - the display works correctly. Now the blower only blows through the defroster vent, it won't switch to the side or floor vents. I did the diagnostic codes scan via the three button method and it came back at first with a code 24, so I ordered a mode door actuator (has not arrived yet). Just out of curiosity, I did the scan again, now it only shows a code 36. I tried two other ATC units(from pick and pull) and they also provide a code 36. Code 36 means " loss of communication" with the BCM.
So - where do I go from here? Any suggestions?
Mine just did this, but vice versa with the codes. Now I have to order an actuator.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adpros View Post
To be honest, this system has been so reliable over the years that anyone specializing in it would be on par with the Maytag repairman. I have done so few repairs on these, other than the display solder connections, that I didn't know. I did however note that the aspirator motor inlet grille does tend to collect lots of lint and debris. I cleaned mine out this past summer.

Waiting to hear if Laser3kw's problem is solved.
Don't forget to take apart the little fan and remove the crud, that gathers around the fan's pin, and regrease. I did that and now the ATC doesn't make a noise when I enter the car.
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 06:47 PM
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So any word on the status/fix?
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-24-2012, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Hi guys
I hope to work on it Sunday. Just got back from the holiday.I plan on swapping in another ATC display and then do the reset. My mode door actuator arrived so if the code 24 pops back up, I have that covered.
I'll post back tomorrow.
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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update:
I swapped in another ATC display and then ran the self check, code 36 came up. I pull the negative battery cable and let it sit for 30 minutes. That cleared the code 36, but the code 24 is still coming up. Next step will be to replace the mode door actuator. I'll probably do that next weekend.
As far as replacing it, I found a you tube video that shows the where its located and what has to be removed. My mechanic does not want to do the job, he said the console and a bunch of hoses have to be removed. I think he believes the blend door motor is what needs replaced.
Any advice on the job? Is it as simple as the video shows?
Thanks for the help so far.
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laser3kw View Post
update:
I swapped in another ATC display and then ran the self check, code 36 came up. I pull the negative battery cable and let it sit for 30 minutes. That cleared the code 36, but the code 24 is still coming up. Next step will be to replace the mode door actuator. I'll probably do that next weekend.
As far as replacing it, I found a you tube video that shows the where its located and what has to be removed. My mechanic does not want to do the job, he said the console and a bunch of hoses have to be removed. I think he believes the blend door motor is what needs replaced.
Any advice on the job? Is it as simple as the video shows?
Thanks for the help so far.
It doesn't seem hard nor time consuming. Here are the steps from the FSM.
Code:
(1) Open hood and disconnect the negative battery cable remote terminal from the remote battery post
(2) Remove the left and right underpanel ducts.
(3) Remove the floor console
(4) Remove the center floor heat adaptor duct.
(5) Remove the rear seat heat forward adaptor duct.
(6) Loosen the center support bracket and pry rearward to gain access to the actuator.
(7) Remove the actuator retaining screws. Then pull the actuator straight down. 
Upon removal, note the shaft position of the actuator, because the shaft on this motor is keyed. 
When installing a new actuator, its shaft must be positioned in the same location
(8) Remove the electrical connection on the actuator.

Last edited by BatCaveTrep; 11-25-2012 at 05:02 PM.
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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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progress made
So I dove into the task of changing out the mode door actuator (MDA) with a new Mopar part. I started long version by dismantling the dash and console until I got the MDA out and installed the new one. Reassembled the dash parts, reconnected the battery, ran the self diagnostic.....
Frik'n code 24 came back . Guess what I said next.
So instead of the total dismantle, I did the internet video short version. Remove ATC bezel, remove radio, left duct, right duct, center duct. At that point I could remove and reinstall the MDA at will and watch its operation during self test. I also checked the vent rotor (the item that the MDA engages) and was able to switch the ducts from floor to defroster by hand with little effort.
I ran several self checks while watching the MDA.Sometimes it would rotate sometimes it would not. When it would rotate, it would turn clockwise (looking at the drive pinion) only, never turned counter clock wise. I would think, a self check test of a "servo", would include a sweep check, from clockwise a to b then counter clockwise b to a.
My next step is to get a known good ATC display and try that. Anyone have one for testing and purchase? If you are in the Rockford Il area drop me a PM.
If that isn't it maybe a junk yard BCM?
Thanks for the help so far.
I hope to beat this yet!
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-02-2012, 10:51 AM
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I wonder if something was damaged when resoldering those contact points. I resoldered mine and have the 24 code. I disconnected the battery, left it that way overnight, and the next morning everything worked fine. However, hours later and the 24 code came back and the mode won't change. Tomorrow I'm making a yard run, so I'll let you know if a new ATC resolved the problem.
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-02-2012, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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That is how I rationalized it. My thinking was the same about the soldering. Or possibly the 9 months of "dash slap" (to wake up the display) caused numerous voltage spikes that the microprocessor did not like. My hope is the BCM survived.
I am currently running with no MDA in place. I manually positioned the ducts so we have defrost and floor, so we can drive it. When I get the other ATC I will hook up both.
Another symptom appeared today. The ATC is going nuts'o. The fan switch was set to minimum, but the fan all of a sudden kicked up to high. At that point the switch would not control it. The air temperature also went to cool even thought it was set to 70. The temperature also would not respond to commands. Yup I think the ATC has gone coo coo for coco puffs. I will try a different one any way.
keep us posted. I will do likewise.

Last edited by laser3kw; 12-02-2012 at 06:35 PM.
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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-02-2012, 07:01 PM
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Or possibly the 9 months of "dash slap" (to wake up the display) caused numerous voltage spikes that the microprocessor did not like.
I think it has more do with the soldering since I never smacked mine. Do all off your buttons light consistently? I have a set that it out again.

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keep us posted. I will do likewise.
Will do.
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 09:17 AM
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Here's an update. I haven't replaced anything yet, but my mode has started working again. It was stuck on face, but while waiting in the car, during an errand, I did the self-testing. When it finished, I noticed it was stuck on defrost, so I did the testing again and all started working. I shall know when I look at it today, but I think the soldering did something.
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