How to clean your Idle Air Control valve, and what it does. (discussion) - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-04-2003, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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do you happen to know how to do this for a 3.3L
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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-05-2003, 04:32 AM
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If you look at your air intake, it leads to an aluminum type thing, or your throttle body as it's called.

If you look at the side closest to the engine block, there are two sets of wires, one to a higher device, one to a lower device. That lower device is your IAC. Follow the exact same steps, and enjoy.
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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-12-2003, 03:39 PM
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I did this to my 97 and boy does it feel better. I always had a rough idle but with this it seemed to calm down. although mine didn't get as clean as yours but it still seemed to do the trick. Thanks a bunch!
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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 07:30 PM
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I just did this. The car idles really fast now, Im not used to applying that much break pressure when stopped at a stop sign or light. It idles near 15 mph going around a corner without touching the gas sometimes its really cleaned it up!
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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-15-2003, 09:50 PM
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I did this to my 97 Intrepid, and there was a noticeable difference instantly and it idled much smoother and quieter than normal, Great Tip!
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-15-2003, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by somethingquick
I just did this. The car idles really fast now, Im not used to applying that much break pressure when stopped at a stop sign or light. It idles near 15 mph going around a corner without touching the gas sometimes its really cleaned it up!
When you clean this piece, sometimes you might hit the plunger against a surface in hopes of freeing up some other debris up high.

Take the 2 minutes it takes to remove it like you did before, but just make sure you pull out that plunger as much as you can. with your hands only.

I suffered from the same thing but now it's ok.
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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-15-2003, 10:08 AM
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I just did this last weekend. I have 130,000 miles and I was chasing a very minor idle issue. After long highway trips, it will sometimes slightly stumble at idle. Sooooo, last weekend, I pulled the throttlebodies and cleaned them (off the car, btw.) I also replaced the pcv valve and rubber hose (it was shot.) Then I cleaned the idle air controller too. It had some amount of buildup on it, but its all clean now.

When I first started it, it shot up to 2-3000 rpm, then quickly dropped. On the trip into work this morning, I noticed that its behaving like the throttle is sticking (although I don't think it really is.) Now, when I step off the gas on the highway, its like the return spring is weak. Perhaps I re-assembled the damn spring on the throttle synchronizer shaft incorrectly. The service manual does not show a good picture of it. Anyone out there got a good photo of theirs (3.5L, btw.)

I am wondering if its mostly that the computer must learn to deal with a clean intake and is just in the "figuring it all out" process. I am considering pulling the pos wire on the battery and letting it sit, but I don't want ot lose all my radio stations if I don't have to.

Does this condition fix itself ??
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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-17-2003, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by merkurmaniac


I am wondering if its mostly that the computer must learn to deal with a clean intake and is just in the "figuring it all out" process. I am considering pulling the pos wire on the battery and letting it sit, but I don't want ot lose all my radio stations if I don't have to.

Does this condition fix itself ??
Just pull the fuse for the engine controller and let it sit for 15 minutes. Its the same as pulling the battery connector but you dont lose the rest of the memory in your car. The fuse is located under the hood in the fuse box.
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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-11-2003, 04:11 PM
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Can someone tell me exactly where I can find the idle air control vavle on a 3.5L '97 Intrepid? I took off something that looked like it but I don't think it was it. It didn't look anything like the picture above. Help!
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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-06-2004, 06:47 PM
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Look at the back of your engine, closeset to the wipers. Look at the drivers side wiper side of the engine. The pics should be very clear at that point.
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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-28-2004, 05:33 PM
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what tool do I use to take it out? flat head screwdriver, hex?
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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-01-2004, 03:40 PM
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It is a torx, I think thats how you spell it. It is star shaped and to avoid messing the bolt up you should use the correct tool. You can get a small torx set for your 1/4 inch drive socket at most auto parts stores. Torx head bolts are used on most US cars, often used to hold headlights so they are a handy tool to have.
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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-03-2004, 03:36 PM
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I did this last night... I seem to have no difference... The "piston" did not move in or out very freely. I put it in "too far" originally and when I started the car it shot up to 2500 rpm... I pulled it back out (and damn that took a whole lot of muscle... it did not want to move at all), and then let me screwing the piece back on push the "piston" back in... Now that it's back in... The seems to be doing the same thing... I tried the engine controller fuse for 20 minutes, and still doing the same thing... Do I need a new one?

Thanks,
Kenny
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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-22-2004, 11:16 PM
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Hi all. First post. I found this thread very useful so I wanted to post my experience with it.

I was having a lot of problems with my car idling poorly. It would kind of vibrate back and forth at full stop. The check engine light went on at about the same time the car started doing this. The car is 1997 Chrysler Concorde 3.5 with around 102,000 miles.

I replaced the plugs with OEM and still had the problem. I then read this post and tried cleaning the sensor. After putting the sensor in the RPMís jumped to 4000. I tried disconnecting the battery for 15 min but that did nothing. I must have broken something on the sensor when I cleaned it. I called pep boys first and they had one for $69.99. I did not shop around so I canít tell if thatís a good price.

After getting a new one the instructions showed that there are actually two different types but they are interchangeable. There is one pictured and one where a sleeve covers the spring. Also the instructions said that in order to calibrate the sensor you need to drive around and hit 40mph.

As soon as I installed the new sensor the idle went up to 1000 then to 1500 and then back to 1000. The check engine light did not go on and no vibration. I drove the car around and hit 40. The idle went down to about 750rpms and so far the car seems to bee running great.

Also the screws are Torx T25.

Hope this helps someone else. Thanks
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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-26-2004, 09:11 AM
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Thank You

I did this trying to track down a idling problem and it solved part of it. I just bought the car and it ending up being the pcv hose(wasn't one) and a O2 sensor. The combination of the 3 problems caused my vehicle to not want to idle. Thanks for the tip. If it wasn't for your pics of the IAC I wouldn't have realised there wasn't a PCV valve hose.
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