Install a 1998-2004 intrepid transmission into your 1993-1997 intrepid (Discussion) - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 172 (permalink) Old 01-02-2004, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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Install a 1998-2004 intrepid transmission into your 1993-1997 intrepid (Discussion)

Step One: Locate New Transmission

I went to www.car-part.com and searched for a 2001 transmission in the local junkyards.

I happend to find a 2003, SE transmission, with just over 3k miles on it, torque converter, wiring harnesses, everything.

This ran me about $580 dollars. It weights a bit over 200lbs, so you will need a friend help you pick it up from the yard.

Make SURE that, if it comes with a torque converter installed, that it does NOT move when in transit. you can ruin the splines on the converter/transmission if it happens to fall off or move around significantly in transit.

If you can, try to locate a new/rebuilt torque converter for the model year that your car is. it isn't NECESSARY, but it sure makes it MUCH easier to install, and also keeps your torque converter stall speed the same. (if you don't understand how they work, Click Here )

If you choose to stick with the 2G converter.. you will most likely have to "professionally Adjust" your engines Flexplate, like I did.
More on this later.

Last edited by Lafrad; 01-02-2004 at 07:26 PM.
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post #2 of 172 (permalink) Old 01-02-2004, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Step Two: Remove your Old, Broken transmission

Step Two: Remove your Old, Broken transmission.

The removal and installation procedures can be located Here. That link is just a PDF page out of a manual that I got from someone on the board... Hypnos or Argus or someone. I am sure if you ask around, you can get the whole manual.

Also, your friendly Hayes manual has a good procedure for this (if you don't have a Hayes manual for your car (or something similar), you probably don't have enough experiance working on cars to replace a transmission. Don't proceed without one.) The manual will do a MUCH better job at explaining the removal process than I can...

Remember to mark your flexplate before you unbolt all the bolts. there IS a keyed hole on the plate, but it is nice to have a big painted "X" there, because it is easier to see.

Last edited by Lafrad; 01-02-2004 at 07:36 PM.
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post #3 of 172 (permalink) Old 01-02-2004, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Step Three: "Adjust" the new transmission to 1G specs.

Step Three: "Adjust" the new transmission to 1G specs.

This is probably the most complicated part of the project.

As ACR listed in another thread, there are 4 main differences in the transmissions (and one with the torque converter). I am just going to quote ACR, and then expand on what he lists, given my experiance.

I am going to break it into sub steps in the thread, as I can't fit it all in one post.

YES... my car is salty. I just had driven 220 miles through a snow/ice storm to get home after graduating from college.

Last edited by Lafrad; 01-02-2004 at 07:39 PM.
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post #4 of 172 (permalink) Old 01-02-2004, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Step 3.1: Drill a new hole

Step 3.1: Drill a new hole.

Quote:
Originally posted by ACR
1- Oversize one of the mounting bolts that hold the trans to the engine.
Oversize isn't really the best word for this. "Drill a new hole" is a little more accurate. The 2G engines have all of the same mounting holes, save one. One of the top holes is an inch or two off compared to the first gen trannies. You can see the hole that I had to drill to make it fit.

I originally used a 1/2" drill to make the hole, but after installing the transmission, and it being slightly off.. I would HIGHLY suggest that you use a 5/8" drill bit to drill the hole. A slightly bigger hole really means nothing in this case. These bolts are used to hold the transmission to the engine, not line it up. (There are 2 pins on the sides of the tranny to line it up).
To line the hole up, I used a piece of cardboard, and made a template off the old transmission. I put the cardboard on the old trans, put 4 bolts in (making holes through the cardboard). I then brought this over to the new transmission, put the 3 bolts in that lined up, and drilled a hole directly in the center of the 4th hole.

Last edited by Lafrad; 01-02-2004 at 07:27 PM.
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post #5 of 172 (permalink) Old 01-02-2004, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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Step 3.2: Swap the back cover

Step 3.2: Swap the back cover

Quote:
Originally posted by ACR
2- Swap the rear cover to use the existing transmission mount that was in my car.
He hit this one dead on. The back cover on the transmission needs to be swapped so you can use the existing trans mount. If you happened to get a transmission out of a 3.2/3.5L car, and want the performance of the SE/Prowler gears, swap them while the covers are off. (See Here)
You can see a pic of this a few steps up...

Last edited by Lafrad; 01-02-2004 at 07:28 PM.
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post #6 of 172 (permalink) Old 01-02-2004, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Step 3.3: Change the wiring

Step 3.3: Change the wiring

Quote:
Originally posted by ACR
3- Swap the transmission range switch (TRS) You don't have the choice to use the 2001 TRS. They made a new design that is 0.063in biger than the old one, so if you use the one you will get an oil leak. You must keep the output and input sensor from the old transmission because they changed the connectors. They changed them because sometimes this type of connector was loosing signal from the sensor. The temp sensor that is located in the TRS seems to be similar because the lockup engages at the same temp after a cold start than it used to do before.
I didn't really understand what he was talking about here until I looked at the plugs, and wires. Sometime mid-year in 1999, the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) was changed. The reasons for this are known to Chrysler and Chrysler only, (although people have theorized that the plug they went to is more reliable). This change is tricky, and involves soldering the new TRS to the old wiring harness. BE SURE TO SEAL THE SOLDERED WIRES. I used heat shrink tubing, and some of the silicone based sealant. (I sealed the ends of the heat shrink). ACR mentions something about the Transmission Speed sensors having different plugs. The 2003 transmission that I got have THE SAME sensor plugs that my í96 transmission had. I was able to plug them right in. If yours are different, you will have to cut and swap the plugs on yours, OR, just bring your old sensors over to the new transmission.

GET THE WIRES RIGHT. Download this for some assistance in matching up colors. (I got this from Argus I think). This is a link to a web version of the document

There is a Splice Kit that you can buy that will help you accomplish this task. Goto your parts counter at your local mopar dealer and ask for P/N: 5014474AA.

I DO NOT think this comes with an extra connecton for the 2002-2004 trannies.. so don't count on that.

Here is the procedure I used:

Remove both wiring harnesses entirely from each transmission.

Cut the TRS sensor off the new transmissionís wiring harness. Stagger the cuts, so that you donít end up with a big bundle of solder joints.

Install the OLD wiring harness on the new transmission. You may need to bring over your Speed sensors on the transmission, I didnít. They plugged right in.

Sit down, locate the wiring bundle that leads to the old TRS plug. The locations of the wires on the new harness MATCH the locations of the wires on the old harness. The colors of most of the wires are the same, but some have changed slightly.. so you canít go off of wire color only. Start with a corner of the plug, and cut the first wire in the corner. Solder the NEW TRS plug to the wire in the harness you just cut. Make sure you have the heat shrink tubing on the wires BEFORE you solder them.

If you happened to get a 2002-2004 transmission, you are MISSING a wire. You will have to run to the dodge dealer, and pick up a terminal for your plug. The part number for this terminal is: 4687767. The dealer I went to had this terminal in stock, so it shouldn't be too big of a deal to find one. To install this terminal, you have to take the plug partially apart. It is 2 clips on the black cap on the end, and it just pulls apart. If you have any questions, PM me, and I will try to help you.

The new harness should now just plug right in.

This is my OLD harness


This is my NEW harness. Note the missing wire in the corner, where the old plug had a wire. (Both are missing pin 8, in the middle of the bottom row).


These are plug definitaitons.
This is a layout (it is helpful.. but kinda confusing)


This is a pin/Color DEFINIATION. USE THIS.. it is VERY helpful. the wire colors that are listed as "1998 LH" are the same colors that are on the new plug for all 2G LH vehicles.

Last edited by Lafrad; 01-19-2004 at 12:59 PM.
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post #7 of 172 (permalink) Old 01-02-2004, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Step 3.4: Torque Converter Shield Plate

Step 3.4: Torque Converter Shield Plate

This step is to be completed after the transmission has been installed.

Quote:
Originally posted by ACR
4- The torque converter shield plate does not exactly fit as before, you can only use 2 bolts on 4 but it's not important.
This is self explanatory. This only really comes into play after your install the transmission. The aluminum block engines needed a little help to keep vibrations down, and they built structural support into the OIL PAN of the 2G cars. The 1G iron blocks really donít need this, and therefore the bottom bolts on the transmission are much smaller. I cut half-moons into the torque converter shield plate, and used some big washers and short bolts to hold the shield plate tight.

Last edited by Lafrad; 01-02-2004 at 07:35 PM.
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post #8 of 172 (permalink) Old 01-02-2004, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Step 3.5: Flexplate modification (Optional)

Step 3.5: Flexplate modification (Optional)

This step is also completed after the transmission is already in.

This step is something that ACR didn't run across, because he has a custom 1G torque converter. I did NOT want to use my original torque converter, because it had the possibility of being the cause of my transmission failure (it made weird noises after I started limp mode). I was prepared to buy a rebuilt '96 converter, but the '03 tranny happened to have a torque converter with it.

Now, I donít know all the info, but somewhere in between í96 and í03 they changed the bolt pattern of the flex-plate on the intrepid engines. All years have 4 bolts that hold the flex-plate to the converter. 3 of these bolts are located in the SAME positions across all years. One of the bolts on the í96 was SLIGHTLY offset/keyed (it was about 1/8Ē off). At first, I thought there was a legit reason to this. I could find NO ONE to give me a definite answer why it was keyed, so I took the plunge. I ENLARGED the keyed hole, allowing the 4th bolt to fit through the flex-plate. I did this by putting the 3 bolts in that fit (only finger tight), and then using a Dremel, with a carbide bit, I enlarged the hole JUST ENOUGH to get the bolt in. The amount of metal removed is so small, that you donít really have to worry about any balance issues.

Be sure to blast out the transmission bell housing with compressed air or something like that to remove as many metal chips that you can. They probably donít play well with the tranny seal on the torque converter shaft.

Last edited by Lafrad; 01-02-2004 at 07:35 PM.
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post #9 of 172 (permalink) Old 01-02-2004, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Step 4: Flush your Transmission Coolers

Your old transmission died, and probably went out by hitting limp mode, hard.

There is probably clutch material, torque converter material, and metal shavings flying around in your transmission fluid right now, and they probably are also in your transmission cooler. it is VERY important to get that cooler flushed out.

It just so happens that my dad had a low pressure 12V hydraulic pump in the garage, so I was able to run a gallon of ATF +3 through the coolers. worked very well, I got quite a bit of burnt/black fluid out of the coolers, and was able to get it to be the NICE blood red that +3 is. (+4 isn't quite as red).

If you don't have a hydraulic pump, find SOME way to run fluid through there. it really is important. I even think they sell "flush in a can" at places like autozone and checker.

Last edited by Lafrad; 01-03-2004 at 11:54 AM.
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post #10 of 172 (permalink) Old 01-02-2004, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Step 5: Install the new transmission.

Step 5: Install the new transmission.

Again, return to your Hayes manual, (or THIS, the procedure that I linked at the start of this How-To.) as it can explain it MUCH better than I can

ACR had an issue with his custom headers making contact with the new transmission somewhere... I did NOT have this problem with the stock exhaust system. no worries there.

make sure you use enough wire-ties to keep the wiring in place, don't want it moving around and wearing through.

Last edited by Lafrad; 01-03-2004 at 11:56 AM.
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post #11 of 172 (permalink) Old 01-03-2004, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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You Are Done!!!!

YOU ARE FINISHED!

USE ATF+4. You don't have the weak excuse of "the dealer says ATF+3" anymore. the transmission is spec'd for ATF +4. (you should have been using this in your tranny as it was.. but now you have to). Make sure you go through ALL the gearshift positions when filling the tranny with fluid. INCLUDING 3 and L. I only did PRND, and when I re-checked, and put it in 3 and L, it was low again. Don't ask me why, I didn't make it.

It will take a couple hundred miles for your transmission computer to learn the new tranny.. and it will be a little erratic on shifts, also will bump shift when you approach stop signs. (the 3-2 AND 2-1 shifts bumped for me for about 100 miles of in-town driving). You WILL notice the transmission getting smoother as you drive, and eventually, it will shift smooth as glass, and slowing down to a stop sign will be PERFECT. I think it is just a bit harsh when it is reset because, after all, it is a DIFFERENT transmission. the default, non-learned values probably are different for a 2G vehicle. No matter, it learns the new transmission just fine, and it drives 100% better than the 1G tranny.

Last edited by Lafrad; 01-03-2004 at 11:54 AM.
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post #12 of 172 (permalink) Old 01-19-2004, 01:02 AM
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Hmmm, may have to try this after mine dies. Great write up
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post #13 of 172 (permalink) Old 01-29-2004, 10:04 PM
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A few comments on this

#1. If your tranny has never been replaced, then you'll run into a problem of getting a heater hose off the top 2 transmission mounts. This was a bear to Lafrad and myself. We had to raise and lower the engine and physically pry off the steel plate that was attached to the heater hose. I forgot to get a pic of this, but if you do this, you'll get the idea of what we are talking about. After the tranny is out, cut that plate off permanently.

#2. Exhaust issue. We ended up cutting the exhaust right before the main cat. The steps listed in the book said you only had to remove/cut one side but I didnt see how that was going to work. $10 in exhaust parts of clamps and pipe, and we were set.

#3. The wiring harness didnt need that extra terminal like his 2003 did. Although you might want to buy the $1.30 part anyway.

#4. Get some anti-foam while you're at the dealer. Its pretty good insurance that Mike didnt remember in his parts step.

#5. Make a friend. No really, I didnt even know how much work this would take. If it werent for Mike's Dad, we'd still probably be in that garage freezing. If not 2, you should have 3 people on this as it is not easy. And it also helps to have either some good elbow grease, or some air tools to help with the manifold bolts. It also helps to have about a foot and a half in socket extensions.

If I remember anything else, I'll edit this post.


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Push Button Shifting : Relocated Cruise Control
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post #14 of 172 (permalink) Old 04-25-2004, 12:36 PM
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Transmission Hell

I'm replacing a 97 Intrepid transaxle and it has been a fight every step of the way. Never done it before, just going by the Haynes manual.

I expected a lot of hard-to-remove bolts, and boy were there ever. I expected a lot of rust and have eaten many mouthfulls of it by now. And though I was hoping to avoid removing the exhaust, like you said, it's got to go. (again not easy)

All in all, the haynes manual has been pretty accurate. I was amused by the part where it says remove the drive axles with a prybar as if it was that easy. And I was unable to remove the through bolt on the rear transmission mount without removing the transmission mount from the cross member.

But they've completely omitted this step:

Quote:
Originally posted by jcman311
A few comments on this

#1. If your tranny has never been replaced, then you'll run into a problem of getting a heater hose off the top 2 transmission mounts. This was a bear to Lafrad and myself. We had to raise and lower the engine and physically pry off the steel plate that was attached to the heater hose. I forgot to get a pic of this, but if you do this, you'll get the idea of what we are talking about. After the tranny is out, cut that plate off permanently.

I can't see how to get these two bolts out without half-disassembling the engine. I managed to remove the nuts holding those hoses onto the studs of those top two bolts, but I don't see any way of getting any tool I know of with enough torque on those top two bolts out.

Any help you can offer here will be extremely appreciated, because for the last few days there has been nothing but these two bolts between me and removing the old transmission.

Last edited by mg_mchenry; 04-26-2004 at 11:41 AM.
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post #15 of 172 (permalink) Old 04-27-2004, 06:45 AM
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I know that when Lafrad and I did this (and there were 2 of us) we had to use a tin snips or any sort of cutter that you can get in there and basically jack the engine up and down (with a jack of course) It'll rock the engine back and forth to allow better access to it from the topside. Then, you have to try and cut the plate off and bend it out of the way.

I think this took Lafrad and myself the better part of 2 hours in itself to try to dislodge that plate from the studs. Not to mention that its complete overkill for a heater hose. I dont believe that the plate has 2 holes, but more of two openings that slip over the studs. But that heater hose is impossible to move, so you may want to try to bend the sides and middle part up to be able to slip the socket over those bolts and get them off.


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Push Button Shifting : Relocated Cruise Control
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