Replace the Blend and Mode Door Actuators (Discussion) - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Replace the Blend and Mode Door Actuators (Discussion)

This is a How To Discussion

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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-03-2012, 08:19 PM
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Can anyone tell me how to recalibrate the ATC in a 1st Gen Dodge Intrepid. Also, these directions are for a second generation Dodge Intrepid. Anyone know "how to" for a 1st Gen. I don't know whether my problem is the transducer or the servo actuator door.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-30-2012, 10:33 PM
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where is the "Panel mode button"?

My car has ATC. To read the fault codes, I got the display to flash but I don't get any codes. This how-to says to push the Panel mode button to read each code. What button is that?
By the way, my symptom is the A/C air flow drops off after 10 or 15 minutes in the car. The fan sounds like it is blowing against a half-closed door. Later, the air flow is normal again. Does that sound like the mode door or the blend door?
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-31-2012, 02:13 AM
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I may not be of much help as my Intrepid is a 1st gen. Another member on this site, "Ronbo" actually showed me how to fix my ATC a/c. Read my post dated 04/08/12 from Ronbo. He gave me a detailed explanation how to fix mode/blend door by recalibrating them. The owners manual recommends/says that you NEED to do this from time to time, especially if the battery has been disconnected. The local Dodge dealer said I needed to replace the little "servo" electric motors that open and close the doors for BIG bucks. Thanks to Ronbo, I didn't spend a cent. The problem is that the method to recalibrate the a/c system is "different" on the 2nd gen Intrepid, though just as simple. I'm positive I've read the instructions for that more than once on here, so I'll look and see if I can find it for you, or you can go to "search" on the main page of Dodgeintrepid.net and type in "recalibrate a/c" and it should send you to posts.Or you can contact Ronbo on this site. He's a super guy in my book as he saved me a ton of money. FYI my a/c blend mode doors are still operating fine and I have ice cold a/c. Let me know if you can't find it. -Siberian
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-08-2012, 12:13 PM
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Blend door Not as hard as instructions imply READ ON!

I know this thread is old but it is very useful. Having said this, the stated instructions on how to remove the Blend Door Actuator is good but not completely accurate or should I say their may be variables and I found this out according to how I just replaced mine. If you're interested and need to replace yours then please read on. Most of the previous instructions are good however it only took me about 45 minutes to an hour to replace mine. I had been putting off this job because it had been portrayed as being a long tedious job. I lost my ability to blow warm air, the Auto climate control was giving me code 23 which it a fault in communication with the blend door.

Here's what I learned with my experience today:

I hit up my local junk yard which like most junk yards has a whole section dedicated to dead 2.7 intrepids Mine is the 3.2 ES with leather seats not bench seats, this actually made it easier for me because the donor car had bench seats in the front which meant it had no center console to remove. My original thinking was, "No console to remove, the easier and quicker the job." which I found out to not be true. It was actually more difficult to remove the interior trim from around the radio/wheel wells then it was from my car.

The 2.7 with bench seats- I had to remove glove box, glove box housing, passenger side-side panel that butts up to the door, the plastic around the radio console is one piece from driver and passenger side which sucked if you dont want to break it, floor vents from passenger side then finally I could just seethe blend door actuator tucked up under the dash on the underside of the heater box. I did have to work upsidedown in both drivers side and passenger side with a 5/16 ratchet wrench (Which is the only way to go) barely enough room to reach the three screws. I finally got all three out, unplugged it which was a chore, then I found out when I pulled it down it wouldn't fit coming out.The actuator was just slightly to big to get out so I had to use leverage with a screwdriver between the actuator and heater box before things would bend just enough to let the metal shaft come out. It sucked and I thought I was going to break it but I didn't. I could only pull it out on the drivers side in this car.

It was so hard to get out I knew I still had to get mine out of my car and then get another one back in, I was not looking forward to this!

Back at home a few days later I finally decided to get the job done and out of the way so I started early in the cool of the day. Remember my car has the center armrest console and more to remove for access I thought. I thought wrong. I've had to do a lot of engine work to this car and it really is a very hard engine to work on because you only get 1/2" to 1" of access room around the motor. But I started by unscrewing the lower glove box screws then removing the glove box, remove the plethura of other screws on the glove box housing, remove the side cover which butts up against the passenger door. Put the park brake on and just pull up on the gear shift plastic area it all just unclips, no screws here and just leave it loose, no need to completely remove it from the console as you are only trying to gain access the the clips for the passenger side plastic piece near the seat. Unlike the 2.7 bench seat model I could remove only the passenger side plastics and gain all the access I needed. Nothing had to be removed from the driver side. I then removed the passenger floor ducting and one piece of ducting which feeds the air on the back of the armrest for rear seat passengers, they both have one plastic clip you pull up on this will unlock the clip then the ducting just bends and remove. I then layed upside down in the passenger side chair and using a 5/16 ratchet wrench unscrewed two screws, then I uncliped the wire harness (squeeze the tab and pull) which then gives you access the the last screw. After the last screw came out the actuator fell right out, no prying or manipulation, it just came right out. I examined the two actuators and both shafts were in teh same position so the other one fit right in easily with just enough room. Put the screws in, plug it in and in reverse clip and screw your plastics back together.

I don't know if my car or the donor car was a fluke thing but I know it took me about 1:30 just to remove the actuator from the 2.7 bench seat donor car and it only took me :45 to 1 hour to remove and replace the actuator in my 3.2 with full center console and armrest.

The entire job was performed with only a 5/16 ratchet wrench and a phillips screwdriver. Nothing else and no beer necessary, and both automatic climate control (digital) and manual climate control (knobs) both use the same actuators so it doesn't matter what type you pull from they all work together. Also someone had already pulled the radio, climate control, and center plastic housing from the donor car, I don't think this need to be pulled off anyway as it wasn't usefulI to me and I didn't take any of it off of my car, it would be completely unnecessary though it may help a little if you would be replacing the mix/vent control actuator but I don't think you'd have to.

I just wanted to share this as my experience today, don't dread it it may not be as hard of a job for you either.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-13-2013, 02:39 PM
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Just took out the actuator in my Intrepid. It was a pain in the butt, literally. Mostly cause its about 30 degrees outside and I couldn't feel my fingers after a few minutes. Don't do this in the cold! These posts were helpful but with no pictures, at first I couldn't figure out what I was looking at. I even bought a Haynes Book for the Intrepid and it didn't have a picture of what I was looking for. Hoping I don't ever have to get to this part again!
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-10-2015, 01:17 PM
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I have a 2000 Chrysler 300m , and what worked for me, was the third button for the right on top row . the picture with a arrow pointing to head .The dash air. Then I could get all the codes, one at a time. Might not work for you, good luck.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 12:02 PM
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Hi newby here I've found this site invaluable for my trep. Over the summer my waterpump blew out while in Myrtle Beach (I'm from PA) and I used stop leak to get home and until I could replace the pump. Everything seems to be working fine the hoses to my firewall are both warm when the car is hot and I have the ATC error codes 23, 32, and 36. My r134A all leaked out in the course of a day(i believe i blew an O ring or something because i could hear it escaping from my central vents. I have no heat currently after flushing the system and unsure of where to begin with replacing servos and actuators; any help would be appreciated.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 02:30 PM
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Others will likely give more through answers. As a starting point:

1) Which engine: 2.7/ 3.2?
2) If the 3.2, did you bleed the air out of the coolant system using the bleeder between the intake runners?

Last edited by 98IntrepidTan; 08-27-2015 at 06:39 AM.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 03:33 PM
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blend door

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Originally Posted by 98IntrepidTan View Post
Others will likely give more through answers. As a starting point:

1) Which engine: 2.7/ 3.2?
2) If the 3.2, did you use bleed the air out of the coolant system using the bleeder between the intake runners?
I had a little different problem.The defrost door would not change to heat . My problem was a mode door actuator. Sounds like no heat might be a blend door actuator. They a two different things. You might go to youtube and put it blend door actuator replace chrysler. good luck
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 03:52 PM
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I have the 3.2 where is the bleeder located? I have not tried that.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-27-2015, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdb5688 View Post
I have the 3.2 where is the bleeder located? I have not tried that.
They're "between the intake runners" near the front on the driver's side. I usually use a long 1/4 inch 6-point socket to loosen it.
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-27-2015, 08:27 AM
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I tried to bleed it last night still no heat of my three error codes 23 36 and 32 I'm leaning towards it's electronic. Hitting the junk yard today to try to replace the servo and or actuator.
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-09-2015, 02:41 AM
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Actuators for HVAC

Need some help. A week ago my 2000 Intrepid started to have problems with the HVAC. The Manual Temp Control could not control which vents the heat or A/C would flow through anymore. I did some research on the web and saw where I could pull the codes using the Manual Temp Control. It pulled 4 codes. #24,33,46,49. Seeing that 3 of the codes had to do with the Mode Door Actuator and one for the Blend Door actuator I purchased 2 new replacement Dorman Actuators online. Well Sunday afternoon I looked to start taking the areas of the dash apart to change out the Mode Door Actuator first. Got to it. Replaced it. Started the car and went to use the Manual Temp Control and at first nothing and then all of a sudden everything was working perfectly. I could actually see the black plastic wheel above the mode door actuator moving to the left or to the right depending on which way I turned the Manual Temp Control. All of a sudden the actuator stopped working minutes later and no matter what I do unplugging it, taking it down and putting the plug back into it, it is not working. One of the 4 codes I pulled last week when the problem first appeared #49 for the Mode Door Actuator says A/C control mode door input shorted to battery. (MTC only, wiring fault or bad servo).Can someone tell me what the servo is? Not knowing a whole lot about this problem I went to grab my test light just to see if there was any power to the socket unplugged to the actuator with the car running while moving the Manual Temp Control. Checked all 4 wires in the plug and I don't show power going to it. I am at the point right now of not knowing what to do next or where to look to follow the wires to see if there is truly a short in the Mode Door Actuator harness. Hoping someone might of had this same problem that could direct me to where to look next as I gave up as it was getting dark and colder outside.

Last edited by ffas23; 11-09-2015 at 02:46 AM.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-09-2015, 07:51 AM
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Take a look at these recent threads:

http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthr...62#post3801162

Replaced mode door actuator same problem exists

First step is to get a used or new (used a lot cheaper) OEM actuator. The aftermarket/Dorman actuators have been found to be pure crap. I have one of each type of actuator (taken out of my '99 Concorde that I recently scrapped) to sell. PM me if interested.
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