I think my PCV valve maybe broken. I get this from the hose going to it being totally shot, having holes and rips in it. I am assuming the valave is bad also. The repair manual is very short in description on what it actually does too. Should I get this fixed ASAP or what? And what does the PCV valve do?
Also, my A/C shoots out some funky smells sometimes, others, works great. Yesterday it had some smell after I had pulled out from a parking space and it had the smell of a chemical. I put down the windows and it went away after 5 minutes. The smells usually smell of exhaust and happen generally after going some where, parking and coming out 30mins to 1hr later. What could be causing this?
08-18-2001, 01:42 PM
You can check your PCV valve by taking it out of the back of the intake and shaking it. You should be able to hear the ball inside rattling around. If not, then it's shot. If the hose is bad, you should replace that too. I know mine needs a new hose too. It's all collapsed in a couple places.
08-18-2001, 01:52 PM
Well on the A/C situation there is a TSB..
A/C Evaporator - Emits Odors
GROUP: Heater & A/C
DATE: Jul. 11, 1997
A/C Evaporator Odor
THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 24-06-95 REV. A, DATED MAY 26, 1995, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES AND NOTED IN THE 1995 SERVICE BULLETIN MANUAL (PUBLICATION NO. 81-699-96084). THIS IS A COMPLETE REVISION AND NO **ASTERISKS** ARE USED TO HIGHLIGHT THE CHANGES.
Some vehicle operators may experience a musty odor from the A/C system, primarily at start up in hot and humid climates. This odor may be the result of microbial growth on the evaporator core. During normal A/C system operation, condensation forms in and around the A/C evaporator. When airborne pollutants mix with this condensation, bacteria and fungi growth begins and odor results.
Operate the A/C system, if a musty odor is experienced, perform the Repair Procedure.
1 O4897625AA Cleaner, Aerosol Evaporator
POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
I noticed some re-calls like that on autozone.com for '93 Dodge Intepid Wildcat. How long are they valid for? They had fuel gasket re-calls and some door joints. My back doors squeak and crack when you shut them. Do you have to be the original owner to qualify for free re-calls?
I replaced my PCV valve and hose, pretty easy. Yea, my first repair job on my first car. :cool:
08-20-2001, 07:21 AM
Here is a possible solution that I saw to help with your bad odor smell (if it is bacteria). Turn your car on, turn your blower motor on high(not A/C) and use air from the outside (not recirculate) and spray lysol into those outside vents below the windshield for about a minute or 2. Worked for me.
08-20-2001, 07:55 AM
Hey STARSCREAMER i have the same problem with my danm doors rear ones and they are. really damn anyonying so did you say that at autozone .com there is something about a recall??? if there is please reply so i can fix this damn problem.
08-20-2001, 08:59 AM
Unless the manufacturer has set an end date on the recall, you can get the work done at any time.
When my wife an I bought the LHS, I sent Chrysler an e-mail documenting the VIN number asking if any of the recalls were completed, and if not which ones had to be done and if I could still do them.
They sent an e-mail back a day later saying that all the recalls were done except the power seat adjuster and informed me that all I had to do was contact my local Chrysler dealer and set up an apointment.
08-20-2001, 03:39 PM
Hey Wutang, here is the exact addresses of the recall's for the 93-96? Intrepid ES. I couldn't find how I got to them orginally, luckily auto complete still had them saved. By the way, what is the name of that shop where you got your dual exhaust? I am not far from Orlando and I would like to do that to my car. Anyways, here is the addresses:
Door Creeks - http://www.autozone.com/articles/art17/art68689.htm
Passenger Air bag safety- http://www.autozone.com/articles/art23/art85947.htm
I didn't get these letters, but as I said, I somehow came across them on autozone.com
08-20-2001, 04:33 PM
I had the same problem with my doors sqeaking. The problem is in the check strap, found on the inside of the door. It's what stops it from swinging open quickly and holds the door in the fully/half-open position. To fix the problem temporarily, take a 10mm socket and take out the 2 bolts that hold the check strap in. This releases it from the door and stops the strap from moving, stopping the sqeaking. On the bad side, it also lets your doors swing very easily. I have to be careful in parking lots and other close quarters. Still though, it is much better than having your doors sqeak/crack like that. I think the straps are around $50 to replace through the dealer. JT
Hey STARSCREAMER i have the same problem with my danm doors rear ones and they are. really damn anyonying so did you say that at autozone .com there is something about a recall??? if there is please reply so i can fix this damn problem.[/QUOTE]
08-20-2001, 06:44 PM
Hey LHSer... what is the email address that you used to get that information? I can't seem to find an address on the chrysler website.....
08-23-2001, 11:16 AM
I just replaced the hoses on my 1995 'Trep with a 3.3 litre. The cost before taxes was $46.00 at the dealer, the dealers have been a little cheaper than after market for common parts it seems. By the way, this is in Ontario Canada. :cool:
03-30-2012, 07:10 AM
Hey STARSCREAMER i have the same problem with my danm doors rearones and they are. really damn anyonying so did you say that at autozone .com there is something about a recall??? if there is please reply so i can fix this damn problem.
“We started off way too tight and that hurt us. I didn’t expect us to be that tight to start the race. I got up to 18th or so and the car just stayed tight. That cost us some time. On our second run the car was too free, completely opposite of where we were the first green-flag run. I felt like the car was a little bit quicker, more competitive. Then on our next green-flag stop, that’s when we developed an issue with the right-rear tire going down. It really screwed the car up. That put us a run behind on setup. The tire had to go down as soon as we left pit road because I got this nasty vibration in the car and I knew something was wrong. By the end of the run, the car was really tight and we had to pit early because we were losing too much time. It ending up working out for us and we made up a ton of time. We were about seven to 10 laps on older tires and I felt like that I could get the top rolling for the first time all day. We were actually decent and it stinks that it started to rain because I wanted to keep running. Starting as tight as we were put us behind and with that long green-flag run to start the race, there really isn’t anything that you can do to help your car.” :drool: