Got a few problems that I figured I would put up in hopes that someone might have a clue. For starters, my Intrepid is a 1996 model, 3.5L engine. First off, my car has had its CEL on for a while now, but it just showed codes 12 (battery disconnected, blah blah) and code 32 (EGR is ****ed, but I'm gonna test that today.) Over the last month or so, I noticed that the 32 has left the system, but now there is a code 43 in the computer. For those unfamiliar with that, code 43 is "Peak primary circuit current not achieved with the maximum dwell time." I replaced my plugs and plug wires a few weeks ago, hoping that would fix the problem, but it obviously hasn't helped. Could this mean my coil pack is going? I'm still getting a strong spark on all cylinders, as far as I can tell. Also, within the past week, I noticed that I will start the car and the CEL will flash continuously. This has happened on three seperate occasions, and it will quit if I turn off the car and then restart it. Any ideas? All guesses are appreciated.
I believe a code 43 can also be generated when a misfire is detected in the engine. Is your idle rough? Btw, a flashing MIL means the code is being generated real time—not good as you know.
Good news though--I remember in another post somewhere that a guy got rid of the 43 code by changing the intake gasket. It turns out the leaky intake gasket was leaning out one of the cylinders and causing a misfire, causing code 43 to be generated.
Also, if your EGR is hosed it will allow exhaust gases to be re-circulated to the intake at idle (this is bad). This will cause a rough idle as well, and could indirectly cause a 43 code to be generated.
Yep, my idle is super-rough. The weird thing is, since it has gotten cold it idles low on start-up after it has been sitting for a while. For example, when I got off work yesterday morning (at 7AM) the car didn't want to stay running. Acceleration was VERY slow and rough. By the time I got home, about 15 miles away, the car was idling high enough to inch the car forward if I didn't apply full brake pressure. When I got home and put the car in park, the idle shot up to about 2K RPMs. When started the car to go to work that night (at 10PM) the idle was still rough, but back to normal. I've gotta fix this ASAP, so what would you recommend I check/replace?
Just a stupid and quick question: Just how bad is this/could this be? I didn't figure an EGR problem or intake manifold leak would be serious enough to destroy my engine. Well, unless it shakes it to death from the rough idle.
I don't think a leaky intake gasket will cause immediate damage. It'll just idle unpredictably as the PCM tries to compensate.
Over time, I imagine you'll build up deposits in and around the cylinder that is misfiring, so I wouldn't wait too terribly long to fix it.
I've heard some folks use an unlit propane torch to discover intake leaks. Alldata recommends shooting a small stream of water near suspected intake leaks. I wouldn't do that though, because if the leak is big enough, you could draw in water into the combustion chambers. Try the propane method and see if your idle fluctuates.
Here we go again... I'm probably the guy you're talkin bout Argus Code 43 took me for a spin that ended up costing me around $800. Code 43 was caused by multiple cylinder misfire in my case. The misfire was on cylinder 1 and 6. If your CEL starts flashing, that indicates misfiring in one or more cylinders at that particular moment. My car was acting just as you describe and it gets worse over time. I'd bet the intake manifold gasket is your culprit. Hopefully your mechanic will figure it out sooner than my Dodge dealer did Hope this helps.
Thanks for the advice, trutrep, but I won't take my car to a mechanic for anything that I can't handle myself. Every time that someone other than myself has done something with my vehicles, it comes back to me in less than optimal shape. My father and I tested the EGR valve, EET, and solenoid yesterday, and all is working fine in that area. We're thinking about what could be next on the list to check without having to take off the manifold, but I believe that is where it's headed.
Good luck man... I'm the same way you are when it comes to repairs. I went to the dealer out of desperation... I changed the plugs, wires, and ignition coil myself. My normal mechanic couldn't figure it out so it went to the dealer. I guess I was afraid that it was something really serious because I have the worst luck when it comes to cars until my Intrepid of course Hope you figure it out man.
Thanks for all of the replies, everyone. I was about to test the IAC earlier, but I decided to go ahead and put on a new A/C belt to replace the other one that broke off. I'm about to go and get a new PCV hose, and that will give the motor plenty of time to warm up. Unfortunately, I have a new problem. I am now getting a code 11 in addition to my codes 12 and 43. Any ideas what could have happened? I might have bumped something loose when I was working with the EGR system, but I checked everything after I found the code and all seems to be fine. Also, my CEL flashes code 43 twice, one right after the other. What the hell does that mean? TIA.
I’m not sure on the double 43 code. I’m thinking that multiple codes can be set depending on which/how many cylinders are misfiring. A scantool would tell for sure.
The code 11 means your crank position sensor is on its last leg, dead, or somehow disconnected inadvertently. Does your car start OK? Does your tach fluctuate if/when your car does start? Might need a new crank sensor. I’d see if it’s cleanable first—it’s basically an inductive pickup (hall-effect) transducer.
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