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Metal on Metal "clunk" from suspension

1K views 12 replies 11 participants last post by  Ioannes 
#1 ·
I have a 97 that started making clunking noises about a year ago. I do most of my own mechanic work (oil changes, plugs/ plug wires, brakes, EEC components [when they don't drive me crazy], interior components (stereo, heater / AC control, door pin switches, multi function switch), etc) and every time I get under the thing to look for the problem I cannot find it.

Looking for some ideas.

Thanks for any suggestions.
 
#4 ·
When I had clunking noises, it turned out that my inner tierod bushings were shot. The inner tierod bushings are the ones that can be found where the tierods are bolted to the center of the steering rack. My guess is either those, or maybe the rack mount bushings.

Jack up the front of your car. Place your hands on the driver side front tire at the 9:00 and 3:00 positions. Push alternately with each hand and try to see if you can feel any slop or hear any metal contact. Repeat for the passenger side front tire.

If you hear the knock, then your tierod bushings have expired and you're hearing the inner tierod eye contact the bolt that holds it into the steering rack.
 
#5 ·
had the same problem and I got it fixe d yesterday, it was the stabalizer bar links, they mount to the stabalizer bar and the strut, well in the process I replacem my struts and mounts also, but the problem was the stabalizer links the joints wore worn out and it was making an awfull clunking sound, even with the slightest road imperfection
 
#6 ·
9 times out of 10 it's the stabilizer bar links on the Intrepid. Mine were replaced at about 60k miles. If/when you get new ones, make sure they have grease zerks (sp?). Another intern design at Chrysler meant the originals were bound to break, but if you get grease zerks (and use them) they'll last forever.
 
#7 ·
My balljoints on the control arm's are the cause of my clunking. It went away a bit when I had the sway bar links done, but my ball joints are pretty bad, so I am sure that is the problem. My tie rods and rack assembly are fine. Check the ball joints, it could be them....very bad if they break or come apart
 
#8 ·
Funny, but we had a funky metal on metal clunk, a loud, and solid-sounding one, coming from the RR, and whatdaya know, it was worn out brake pads coming 'loose' from the little groove one of the rivets was wearing into the disc. Surprised me on that one, as I just *new* it was suspension-related.

Course, you ain't making it no year with a clunk caused by that. But, if you get one, make sure the outer pad isn't toast.

Kelly B
 
#9 · (Edited)
Djnrg said:
Check the ball joints, it could be them....very bad if they break or come apart

Your telling me! :mg:

Heres a pic of my 1978 Cutlass after the accident on the expressway that almost got me killed:



Balljoint snapped on the drivers side, causing me to do a 360 on the expressway, and slam into the side of a flatbed truck.

ALWAYS check balljoints on used cars, even if they are relatively new.
 
#10 ·
Yeah, well I have the same clunking niose on mine, its getting progressivly worse... so how much does it cost to get that stuff replaced??
 
#11 ·
Followed everyone's advice and spent about 1.5 hours under the fool thing this weekend.

Here's what I found Driver's side outer tie rod had some play (not the sound but the vibration I was beginning to feel). By yanking on both end links I was able to make some noise.

Price: 33.81 @ link, 33.81 Outer Tie Rod
 
#12 ·
As info, the nut is 18MM on the link and I could've done it myself if I had a pneumatic ratchet. (Couldn't even budge them with a 18" cheater bar)

Local Goodyear charged me 1 hour labor for both links and .9 hour labor for the outer tie rod (I argued that I could do it in less time and they knocked off about 20 bucks).
 
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