Well, it seems that I have a mechanical problem of some kind with the '97. Occasionally, when I started the car over the last month or so it would not start well and idle at its normal spot. Most of the time when you start the car it doesn't even rev up past 500 RPM and seems to be laboring. Even after giving it some gas. Then when it warms up it is fine. It doesn't misfire, hesitate, stall or ping.
Well, today I started it up and it did that same deal where it makes it to just about 500 RPM and labors to idle (not rough though). Then it stalled out. I tried to start it again and it would just crank over and not fire off. I did this off and on for 5 minutes and then resorted to pushing my foot to the floor (on the gas pedal ) and it started up. It drove like crap for a few miles until it warmed up like it has been doing occasionally and then it was fine. I checked the codes over the last week as well as right when it did this and all I get is a 55 (end message).
So, what's my plan of attack? I was thinking maybe fuel pump. The only thing is that this car doesn't have any performance related problems. No hesitation, misfire or anything. It doesn't even stall (except for this morning after start up). So, maybe something that has to do with cold start (open loop) like a sensor or something. But I get no codes. Any suggestions?
I'm not sure if my experience is related, but here goes...
Whenever I make the trip between my college and home (750+ miles) the car runs like crap in town for a few days afterwards. This past trip, the startup was just as you describe. The cold idle was low, but not realling layboring and then it stalled. Then I couldn't get it started until I floored the gas while starting it. It ran terribly until it warmed up. For the next few days I kept in the garage and started it from their instead of out in the cold. It started, but was still doing the bad idle deal. Then a few days later I was out driving around and finally got a check engine. I don't even remember the code number, but it was the O2 sensor reading a too rich mixture.
Haynes suggested checking the coil pack with a multimeter. It checked out ok. So then I checked the plug wires. They were wayyy over the resistance limit of 25 Kohms. As an additional measure, I replaced the fuel filter and all has been fine since. It starts up fine in the cold and the check engine light is gone.
Check your coil pack, wires, plugs, fuel filter and fuel pump (prob in that order). Good luck.
when was the last time you guys had your timing belt changed....?
sometimes when they get old they stretch and it throws the whole works off....plus a crankshaft sensor might be shittin out.
Well, first of all I have a low idle and the car doesn't want to move at all with my foot off the brake. Besides, a bad intake gasket would result in a HIGHER than normal idle not a lower.
I just cleaned and reoiled the K&N in September. The fuel filter has less than 15,000 miles on it. It may be the plugs.
Today it started and ran fine both at work and at home. Yesterday when it didn't want to start in the morning it started fine after work (9 hours later and colder) and ran great. I have been turning the key to the on position and waiting a second now. I am trying to hear the fuel pump when I first turn the car on. It doesn't sound like it used to but the car drives fine after it is warm when it does this thing it does - whatever it is.
A mechanic made a suggestion to check my fuel pressure with the key on and not running and with the key on and running. Possibility of a bad fuel pressure regulator either leaking or shot.
yea.. fuel pressure is the first thing my mech checked too.. he thought it was too low... but the bill for a new fuel pump was rediculous
I changed the plugs, got an engine controller flash... and now I am good in all weather.
(there is a TSB about cold weather starts and the 3.5L.... an engine controller flash fixes the problem)
Turning the key to the run position and waiting for the pump to stop running and then turning to the start position is the proper method for starting a fuel injected engine. The TSB for cold weather non-starts applies to early 95's and below. Had it done to my 95 (Aug. 94 production) and it now starts just fine in cold weather. A fuel pressure gauge is not all that much money and is easy to use on Chrysler engines.
I’ll take a stab too just in case you haven’t tried this yet. If you’re sure your throttle bodies are clean and serviceable, then maybe your IAC motor isn’t positioning its pintle properly all of the time. If the IAC pintle protrudes too far into the bypass air passage, then it lowers your idle speed. I imagine any deposits present on the IAC’s pintle would likely muck up your idle speed, perhaps even on an intermittent basis.
Check your egr valve, it may be sticking. The engine will not start well if at all with the valve open, but the engine will seem to run normal with the accelerator depressed.
Check your egr valve, it may be sticking. The engine will not start well if at all with the valve open, but the engine will seem to run normal with the accelerator depressed.
I've been experecing the same problem since it's been getting cold. I starting with the fuel filter, after that maybe coil pack and wires. The plugs are new and so id the air filter.
My plugs are less than a year old. Also, it hasn't done this since I posted the thread. Maybe that is what is keeping it away. Please moderator, don't delete this thread.
I know it's a completely different engine but the symptoms are exactly the same as when the fuel pressure regulator crapped out on my '86 LeBaron GTS w/ the 2.2 liter turbo. the reason there isn't any code set is because the pressure regulator is a mechanical unit (it operates on fuel pressure/engine vaccuum) and since the problem happens when it is in open loop it isn't going to set any lean/rich codes from the O2 sensor.
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