The keyless entry unit I purchased from 12 volt direct, the MVS II came in the mail today, I purchased it online back in November.
As soon as it came I brought it to my father's work and his co workers told me that it wasn't the right thing to buy, it had engine disable and a lot of other wires, about 25 of them to be more precise. :mg:
So I threw that in my trunk and went to a local car shop and picked up a Bulldog Security keyless entry with two relays, just to be safe. I kinda didn't know what I was doing..
I get inside a garage and start taking my car apart.
I was trying to get to the inner fuse box so I eventually found out that the only way to get to it was by taking the lower dash off. What a pain.
When I finally got to the fuse box I lost my wireing diagram for my car, so I guessed that the red wire from the ignition was the +12 constant, the people at my father's work told me to pick up these clips to tap a wire into another one. The downside to that wire is once it's in place if it's removed the original wire is ruined. joy.
So all I had was the grounded connection and the +12 ( I think at least ) After that I couldn't find the wires for the door locks, I did have a multimeter though to test the wires although it wasn't giving me a reading on anything.... mann let me tell you, I'm going to have a professional take care of the rest.
To conclude this great automotive night I just put everything back together and I only ended up with two extra screws :bigsmile: haha
i did that to, taken that off many times, only takes bout 5 min or less, but stil a PITA. i can tel ya wire colros and what not for lock unlock if your curiuos ihave teh diagram of the wires. when i put n my alarm, i never could get my door lock to unlock with the rest of them, is wired to the right wires just hasn't worekd quite right, o well, when it gets warm i'l figure itout
Alright, the keyless entry is working. That might be about all that is working right now though...
This weekend a friend and myself were working on my car, we were pretty much doing this in the dark not really knowing what we were doing. After working for a few days and a few trips to autozone later the keyless entry was setup to control the trunk release and the door locks. I think we had to use a total of 3 relays.
The bad side to all of this is... experimenting with which wires to tap into, we cut a lot of wires that weren't supposed to be cut. After fixing them the whole electrical system looked really messy.
So far things not working because of the installation:
-Cigarette outlet
-Light in ash tray
-Door ajar light only comes on when car is in accessory mode or engine running
-ABS light activates when car is on and keyless entry is activated (pressing a button on a transmitter)
-Horn doesn't work (needs to be fixed immediately)
Heh I found out that the fuse was blown for those things.
I found this out by taking the entire dash apart again haha... in the process the antenna of the keyless entry brain fell off. cheap crap. So now the range is reduced to standing within 3 feet of the car.
I'll open it up some other time when I have to take my dash off again and solder the antenna back on. At least I don't have to worry about my trunk opening while my keys are in my pocket
Man, you should have posted here first. I (and others) could have given you the wiring colors for the fuse panel as well as the easiest way to get in there. My install took me three hours. Getting to the back of the fuse panel is the hardest part. I was going to take pics and do a "how-to" a couple years back but that was before I had a digital camera, so I didn't do it. I bought a keyless entry unit from Autoloc. I chose this one because it has BIR or built-in-relay technoloty. It works really nice but I can't get the second remote to "learn" the codes.
I didn't experience any problems. I found all the right wires and everything works like it is supposed to. The only thing I haven't hooked up yet is the trunk release. I suspect I need a relay for this. Maybe I will get around to doing this because I noticed how nice it is not scratching the paint or having to worry if the locks are fozen in winter.
What I did was I epoxied the module or "brain" of the system to the inside of the lower dash (the part you removed in your pic) on the driver's side near the fuse box. IT was so low profile that it fit in there with no problems. The antenna was long enough for me to run it all the way up the A-pillar.
Yeah, well we used relays to control basically everything. First thing we did was attach the trunk relay to the trunk release switch under the glove compartment. The door lock / unlock and trunk wires are all attached to relays which makes the whole thing a little messy.
I still want to hook up the parking lights, and next time I take my dash apart I need to remove the brain and resolder the antenna wire to the PCB.
Also I noticed that on one of the vent panels where the button for traction control should go if it's installed, there's a connector. I think one of the wires was red with gold dots.. I wonder if that's a switched 12v line... I was thinking about connecting that (if it is 12v switched) straight to the cigarette outlet so I won't have to turn my air purifier on and off everytime I start / turn off my car.
It turns out that with my ESi, because I don't have traction control installed the connector for the traction control switch isn't hooked up to anything. The multimeter reads 0 volts. I don't know if I can tap into a switched line like the cruise control or MTC harness, I think I'll have to use an inline fuse before the wire gets to the cigarette outlet.
Anyone have any suggustions?
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