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shakes and rattles

841 views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  argus 
#1 ·
Hello all please help!

I have a 96 3.5 trep that has been a great car since it came to live with me almost a year ago; she has 140,000 graceful miles on her. I have thought for some time that I need to replace an engine mount because on hard acceleration from a stop I could hear thumping sound. Well last week it got much worse, anytime I would go up a hill above about 50 mph the car I could feel vibrations all through the body. Then coming home from work to day the front of the car started “jiggling” violently. It was so bad that I had to turn on my flashers going up hill because anything over 30 and I thought the engine might fall out. Anyway I got home and got under the car, from what I can tell the engine mounts look fine. The rubber looks good and when I have someone rev her up in park the engine doesn’t move or make any thunking sound. I did notice that the rubber isolators between the sub frame and the body are shot. On the passenger side the cradle is a good have inch lower the driver side and I can see just a small layer of rubber, maybe 1\10 of the amount on the driver side. I can also see on the bracket were the rubber should be that metal is rubbing on metal. Do you guys think that this cause of my trouble? I hope it is but it seems too easy. Any help would be great. I have to drive from Atlanta to Jacksonville next Wednesday and have to have if corrected by then.

Thanks in advance

Ken
 
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#2 ·
Ever consider that it might be your tourque converter. Tourque converters tend to surge when going up hill when they are under load, it means it on its way out , i had the same happen in my concorde at around 154,000 miles but in my concord it would do it on flat roads or hills when trying to accelarate slightly. It sahke the car voilently. Hope that help any.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the replies. I went ahead and changed the two worst isolators today; they had no rubber at all. The problem is still there I just can’t feel it as much, that’s why I am leaning toward the idea that it is the torque converter. Since I can’t feel it nearly as bad as yesterday with the bad isolator I think that it is some thing that is mounted to the cradle, and it only does it with the gas applied, the more gas the more violent the shaking. I also found out to day that the tranny mount is totally gone, but I don’t think that the rubber in that mount being gone would cause it to shake that bad. I also noticed that there is a small leak coming from somewhere on the tranny but I can’t see where other then it is dripping on the drivers side. When I drive the car and it starts shaking it feels like the whole front of the car is “wobbling “, and it makes this strange noise that sounds like it is rotating. Does this sound like what yours did when the torque converter went out?

And know I don’t really feel it in the steering wheel; it’s just the whole car.

Thanks again
Ken
 
#5 ·
I just changed my tranny mount, and it DOES make the car vibrate very bad!! Even in neutral, I could hold the RPM's at about 2,700 and the whole dash would bounce up and down!! When I put load on the engine while driving, it felt very rough. After changing the mounts, the car feels silky smooth!! if you want to check the mount, just put it in reverse with your foot on the brake, then give it a quick stab of gas. If the mount is bad, you will hear a loud clank up against the floor of the car. Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
Chris
 
#6 ·
I am pretty sure that I have the problem tracked down now. I replaced two of the lower engine cradle isolators, there was no rubber left. The shaking got better. I replaced the tranny mount, it was ripped in half, and the shaking went always almost the point where it felt like the tires were out of balance. On the test drive after replacing the tranny mount, all was good until I took a sharp right curve at about 55. The shaking came back full force along with what feels like the right tire is wobbling along with a random noise. I got home and starting looking in my Haynes manual under vibration at highway speed. I ruled out the torque converter because it shakes no matter what gear it is in and even when the converter is not engaged. The Haynes manual suggested the CV joints. I went and took the right side tire off found that the inner CV joint boot clamp had slid off the boot in tact and allowed the grease to leak out over time.

Called my local dealer and they want 609.00 bucks for the drive axle. Napa has a rebuilt one for 78 dollars. Guess where I am going? I am going to take the car to a mechanic recommend to me just to get conformation that I am right. Has anyone replaced there drive axles? Did you run in to any problems, how long did it take you to replace it?

Thanks
Ken
 
#7 ·
I don't have any experience to share on the drive axles, but it's probably a good idea to go ahead and replace that one on the side that had the boot slip back.

If you're still feeling the shimmy in the steering wheel after that, then it could be worn out inner tierod bushings like nightravin mentioned. I had to replace mine once upon a time....
 
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