2.7 Timing chain + Water pump.. Parts? Brands? Guides? Sprockets? [Archive] - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat

: 2.7 Timing chain + Water pump.. Parts? Brands? Guides? Sprockets?


Grinker
03-23-2010, 12:07 PM
Soon, maybe next week I will be replacing my timing chain and water pump on my 2000 2.7(101,000).

1. Should I plan on replacing the guides and sprockets or just the chains and tensioner's?

2. Should I buy all mopar/dealership parts or are Advanced AP brand S.A. Gear or Rock autos Cloyes ok for the chain, tensioners etc.

3. What are the latest thoughts on waterpump brand? Gates? Dealership? or something else? (will be using zertec g-05 unless convinced otherwise for coolant)

Any other thoughts?

P.S. I know I have never posted pics of my car. Once I get this project done, I will wash and wax her for spring and take tons of pictures.


:mine:

Grinker
03-23-2010, 03:42 PM
I F@@CKING HATE DEALERSHIPS AHHHHHH...

I just called my local one and and they want 185 for the primary chain 177 for the primary tensioner 37 each for the secondary chains 92 each for the secondary tensioners and 192 for the water pump.... F@@CCCCKKKKKKKK THEM.

Grinker
03-23-2010, 04:11 PM
Called rock auto the gates pump they sell is made in china and has a plastic impeller. 68.09 shipped
Also called Jeromy` at mopardiscountparts.com he said theirs is not the value line but didn't know if it were made in the US... he said he doubted that it was. 91.91 Shipped

Woolf
03-23-2010, 04:43 PM
Have you tried local places like Advance Auto Parts?

I have a 2.7 intrepid too and was planning on doing the timing and pump. With the whole kit + the water pump (not sure if I need the whole kit?) it was going to be about $500, but at Advance with a 20% discount I save $100, making it $400, cheaper than the timing kit itself, and thus giving me a free water pump too.

Hoping to get it all done soon though, just turned over to 160k last weekend. Let me know how your repair turns out/what parts you needed...

Grinker
03-23-2010, 04:47 PM
I'm a little unsure of the quality of advances stuff. I def. wont be getting my pump from there.
Do you have a 20% coupon code??

Woolf
03-23-2010, 05:47 PM
I'm a little unsure of the quality of advances stuff. I def. wont be getting my pump from there.
Do you have a 20% coupon code??
retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com

Coupon: PS20

I personally never considered the quality of Advance or AutoZone parts. Parts are parts as far as I've ever been concerned. And most of the parts I get have warranties anyway.

Almostready
03-23-2010, 11:20 PM
I just replaced the pump, main chain, sprockets,guides, and primary tensioner. I would recommend Mopar parts. I have worked in the auto industry in engineering, for the one of the big three and at suppliers, most of my life. There are good aftermarket parts but there are plenty of bad ones as well. I looked at it this way. This job is a pretty involved teardown. I paid the extra money for the Mopar parts in the hopes that they last a long time.

You are going to have to replace the chain and sprockets due to the change in the water pump design. You can get a kit that contains the Chain, Sprockets and Guides. Cheaper than buying them individually. The water pump and tensioner are extra. Also, pricing can very quite a bit from dealer to dealer. It is worth calling around. I found some that did not sell the kit.

Good luck

DrDodge
03-23-2010, 11:24 PM
thats right,, the pump has been updated,, so ask for a 2002 pump, and yes you will have to replace the chain,, guides etc,,

chillz1
03-24-2010, 12:08 AM
Mopar Timing Kit (http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330412644047&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT)

http://i.ebayimg.com/02/!BdL4+vQ!mk~$(KGrHqUOKiMEq4+ykrN3BK3zLbv(w!~~_12.J PG

$231.62 plus shipping.

Grinker
03-24-2010, 09:25 AM
Mopar Timing Kit (http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330412644047&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT)

http://i.ebayimg.com/02/!BdL4+vQ!mk~$(KGrHqUOKiMEq4+ykrN3BK3zLbv(w!~~_12.J PG

$231.62 plus shipping.

Plastic Guides??

Grinker
03-24-2010, 09:39 AM
[/QUOTE] thats right,, the pump has been updated,, so ask for a 2002 pump, and yes you will have to replace the chain,, guides etc,, [/QUOTE]

I def. am replacing the chain and tensioner, but I wasn't sure if replacing the guides and sprockets was necessary.


Does anyone have a kit that they recommend??

Should I replace the secondary chains and tensioners??

peva
03-24-2010, 09:45 AM
Plastic Guides??That's what came in yours from the factory. You will be amazed at how *little* the guides are worn when you remove yours. I know I was amazed.

I def. am replacing the chain and tensioner, but I wasn't sure if replacing the guides and sprockets was necessary.Sprockets have to be changed if the chain and pump are of the new design - pitch is different. Like I said, guides wear very little, but they are in all the kits - they aren't adding any significant cost.

Does anyone have a kit that they recommend??OEM - that one that Grinker posted looks pretty good. It doesn't inlcude the primary tensioner though - separate item.

peva
03-24-2010, 09:50 AM
http://i.ebayimg.com/02/!BdL4+vQ!mk~$(KGrHqUOKiMEq4+ykrN3BK3zLbv(w!~~_12.J PGWhat's that thing to the right of the water pump gasket (just below the cam sprocket)?

lextrep
03-24-2010, 10:14 AM
Parts are parts as far as I've ever been concerned. And most of the parts I get have warranties anyway.

I would have to disagree with" parts are parts"...There are many manufacturers and many different quality differences in both OEM and aftermarket parts...For a lot of waterpumps and other parts that can be replaced external of the engine in a few hours and not damage other parts when they fail, quality and longevity is not of primary importance maybe.....On these particular parts I would lean toward OEM dealer parts for the main reason that they are the same parts that the Dodge dealer network must warranty as the whole car when the original engine warranty is in effect.....If one part fails all related parts are also warranted under the original warranty, so it makes sense that the quality of the OEM part may be better....Even though the warranty does not apply as replacement parts.

Aftermarket" lifetime"parts warranties are not a good indication of a part's quality...The warranty is more of an indication of the cost to manufacture vs. selling cost and likelyhood that part will be actually returned.....When you factor in the likely failure of other unrelated parts and the ownership of the car may change, they have a small percentage chance of actually replacing most parts they sell....

Since if the pump fails the only part that would be warranted would be the pump, not the other damage or labor to replace, in this particular engine I would recommend OEM parts..

Good Luck!!

lextrep
03-24-2010, 10:19 AM
What's that thing to the right of the water pump gasket (just below the cam sprocket)?

It looks like the mounting bolt and spacer for the right side chain guide??

Grinker
03-24-2010, 10:19 AM
I would have to disagree with" parts are parts"...There are many manufacturers and many different quality differences in both OEM and aftermarket parts...For a lot of waterpumps that can be replaced external of the engine in a few hours and not damage other parts when they fail, quality and longevity is not of primary importance maybe.....On these particular parts I would lean toward OEM dealer parts for the main reason that they are the same parts that the Dodge dealer network must warranty as the whole car when the original engine warranty is in effect..Even though the warranty does not apply as replacement parts....If one part fails all related parts are also warranted under the original warranty, so it makes sense that the quality of the OEM part may be better....

Aftermarket" lifetime"parts warranties are not a good indication of a part's quality...The warranty is more of an indication of the cost to manufacture vs. selling cost and likelyhood that part will be actually returned.....When you factor in the likely failure of other unrelated parts and the ownership of the car may change, they have a small percentage chance of actually replacing most parts they sell....

Since if the pump fails the only part that would be warranted would be the pump, not the other damage or labor to replace, in this particular engine I would recommend OEM parts..

Good Luck!!

I'm getting the kit chillz1 posted its a great deal. Cheapest I have seen and it is from a dealer so I don't have to worry about some crazy ebay seller.

rshaw125
03-24-2010, 11:40 AM
I thought the vast majority of timing chains lasted the life of the engine? I can see the wisdom in changing the water pump before it needs it. But changing the timing chain etc if it is in good shape--why??
Is yours rattling or showing signs of wear?

Grinker
03-24-2010, 11:53 AM
Its on the maintenance schedule to be changed at 100,000 miles. And it is one of the failures people have seen. Plus as others have said in this thread there was a redesign so if you change the pump you have to change the chain and sprockets.

rshaw125
03-24-2010, 12:02 PM
Its on the maintenance schedule to be changed at 100,000 miles. And it is one of the failures people have seen. Plus as others have said in this thread there was a redesign so if you change the pump you have to change the chain and sprockets.

Maintenance schedule? Where? On the 3.5 yes. On the 2.7? Where does it say this?

peva
03-24-2010, 12:45 PM
Its on the maintenance schedule to be changed at 100,000 miles.Nope - you're thinking of t-belt on 3.2/3.5.

And it is one of the failures people have seen. Plus as others have said in this thread there was a redesign so if you change the pump you have to change the chain and sprockets.You could re-use the old chain if you get the old design pump, which I'm pretty sure is still avail. thru dealers and aftermarket. The chain itself probably doesn't fail, but the tensioner might if the engine is sludged up.

I changed my chain (and oil pump and valve stem seals) at 207k miles because the parts cost was minimal compared to the effort to get in there to do the water pump. I probably could have done fine with just the water pump (and valve stem seals).

Think about doing the valve stem seals too - that will stop smoke and oil usage that is almost a certainty with the 2.7 much north of 100k miles, but that adds bit of time to the job.

Miscreation
03-24-2010, 12:46 PM
Every single time i have heard someone doing a 2.7 multiple chain and pump job the motor always blew the **** up after they were done, i work in a toyota shop and know a great guy that use to turn wrenches for Dodge, and he said every single time customers wanted a timing job done on there 2.7 intrepid, corde, or JR stratus and sebring 2.7, he would turn em down. hes seen nothing but failure to guys who have done timing on 2.7's. he thinks LH are the biggest piece of shit anyway and i always try and convince to him there not lol. why do you want to do chains anyway? chains doint wear out, belts do, but not chains. They could stretch yes, but the chain(s) in the 2.7 are like 4 feet long in length. I dont ever wanna touch my or a customers 2.7, those motors scare me. there junk. you need grenade pins and special tools to do a 2.7 anyway, i woudnt touch it dude unless you really know what your doing and have done these engines ALOT and i mean ALOT. i would stay away dude.

peva
03-24-2010, 02:15 PM
Every single time i have heard someone doing a 2.7 multiple chain and pump job the motor always blew the **** up after they were done, i work in a toyota shop and know a great guy that use to turn wrenches for Dodge, and he said every single time customers wanted a timing job done on there 2.7 intrepid, corde, or JR stratus and sebring 2.7, he would turn em down. hes seen nothing but failure to guys who have done timing on 2.7's. he thinks LH are the biggest piece of shit anyway and i always try and convince to him there not lol. why do you want to do chains anyway? chains doint wear out, belts do, but not chains. They could stretch yes, but the chain(s) in the 2.7 are like 4 feet long in length. I dont ever wanna touch my or a customers 2.7, those motors scare me. there junk. you need grenade pins and special tools to do a 2.7 anyway, i woudnt touch it dude unless you really know what your doing and have done these engines ALOT and i mean ALOT. i would stay away dude.That's simply not true. I did mine a year and a half ago at 207k miles - drive it every weekday 80 miles. It now has over 230k on it and runs great. I am a 58-1/2 year old DIY'er with a day job that doesn't involve cars. Va3ux (Phil) did his at around 217k - now has, IIRC, over 270k on it.

OK - now that I told you that, you can never again say "Every single time i have heard someone doing a 2.7 multiple chain and pump job the motor always blew the **** up after they were done" like you did in the first sentence of that post. I just gave you 2 examples. :)

Grinker
03-24-2010, 02:21 PM
SO, should I get the old style pump and just do that or should I get the new set and a tensioner and replace those?? I guess I'll be leaving the secondary chains alone???

rshaw125
03-24-2010, 03:03 PM
Listen to PEVA he knows what he's talking about.

Grinker
03-24-2010, 03:30 PM
Listen to PEVA he knows what he's talking about.

I agree

Daytrepper also advised to swap to the new. and that's what I'm going to do. I'm getting the kit posted in this thread and a tensioner. I'm not going to do the secondary chains unless advised otherwise.

jasonJ1969
03-25-2010, 12:35 AM
Every single time i have heard someone doing a 2.7 multiple chain and pump job the motor always blew the **** up after they were done, i work in a toyota shop and know a great guy that use to turn wrenches for Dodge, and he said every single time customers wanted a timing job done on there 2.7 intrepid, corde, or JR stratus and sebring 2.7, he would turn em down. hes seen nothing but failure to guys who have done timing on 2.7's. he thinks LH are the biggest piece of shit anyway and i always try and convince to him there not lol. why do you want to do chains anyway? chains doint wear out, belts do, but not chains. They could stretch yes, but the chain(s) in the 2.7 are like 4 feet long in length. I dont ever wanna touch my or a customers 2.7, those motors scare me. there junk. you need grenade pins and special tools to do a 2.7 anyway, i woudnt touch it dude unless you really know what your doing and have done these engines ALOT and i mean ALOT. i would stay away dude.

Bollocks. If the engines are blowing up, it's because of hack mechanics who aren't doing it right. None of this is particularly difficult or complicated, you just have to take your time. As far as just staying with the old style to keep using the original chain, I can't say I would do that.

The benefit of going to the newer style is the pump itself. While some may argue, I can say with confidence that the majority of 2.7 failures occurred because the bearings in the old style pump failed, causing a slackening in the chain, and destruction ensued. Yes, there were some that failed due to sludge causing a lack of oil pressure to the primary tensioner, but I would bet they are the minority.

Just think about this: The Charger, Magnum, and 300C have been out since 05. They all come with 2.7's as the base engine. How many failures have you heard of on these cars? Because I have searched far and wide, and am not finding evidence of 2.7 failures. The only difference internally is they have the newer pump.

That tells me it is worth the $500 for genuine mopar updated parts, if you like the car and want it to last.

dbakerparks
03-25-2010, 08:56 AM
The reason to replace the timing chain is pretty simple the NEW, 2002 redesigned H20Pump has the improved seal and bearing to eliminate the early life failure that leads to the leaking coolant out the weep hole. The New pump is only compatible with the new timing chain. Why put the design that is prone to leaking back in to avoid changing the timing chain. Upgrade to the New pump, chain, guides, primary tensioner while you have the front of the engine off.

primetime
03-25-2010, 09:20 AM
I have a step by step how to on this that also encorporates chaning out the valve stem seals:

http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61664

I advise changing out the oil pump and oil pick up tube as well. To do this you will need to remove the oil pump sprocket. I replied to your PM about the tools. They made the job alot easier, were used only once. The ones im selling are significatly discounted in price compared to what I paid for them new. Let me know.

Bollocks. If the engines are blowing up, it's because of hack mechanics who aren't doing it right. None of this is particularly difficult or complicated, you just have to take your time.

Mine didn't blow up, but it spun a rod bearing 4 months later after I did this work lol!

Grinker
03-25-2010, 09:41 AM
Mine didn't blow up, but it spun a rod bearing 4 months later after I did this work lol!

That's scary and fucked up.. It spun a rod bearing even after changing the pump and pickup? Do you know what happend????

primetime
03-25-2010, 10:06 AM
I believe that it was already prematurely worn. The timing chain/water pump/oil pump swap didn't cause it to go.

TrepCruzin
03-25-2010, 10:53 AM
Every single time i have heard someone doing a 2.7 multiple chain and pump job the motor always blew the **** up after they were done.

I have rebuilt quite a few of these motors (2.7's & 3.5's) with very few problems......Depending on the problem it maybe from the crank on up or something as simple as replacing a waterpump. For me I know what I'm looking for as far as problems.....one of the very 1st things I check for is spun bearings...I drop the pan before I start to tear the motor apart. I just finished a motor rebuild on a engine that smashed all 12 of the intake valves from a waterpump installation from another shop. My own personal car has been running fine since the rebuild I did this past summer.....I hasn't blown up.....What I encounter is a hand full of mechanics that need to surrender there tools because they have no business owning tools in the 1st place.

video of the most recent rebuild.....
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Grinker
03-25-2010, 12:32 PM
What I encounter is a hand full of mechanics that need to surrender there tools because they have no business owning tools in the 1st place.



What mistakes do they typically make??

Miscreation
03-25-2010, 01:50 PM
Thats what im saying, if you dont know what your doing with these engines, dont do them, or you have to take your time with them. If you take it to a shop to get the work done, they will most definite make a mistake and have something go wrong, Mechanics are Flat Rate, so when you say take there time, sometimes there not gonna do that lol. If the job is taking longer than they want it to, they start to half ass, and with the 2.7's you cant half ass nothing, you have to take it slow and look at everything, That is not the flat rate way and something will happen, So obviously if your gonna do it, do it yourself lol. Good luck man.

Grinker
03-25-2010, 02:41 PM
I'm planning on taking - no laughing - a week or more to do it. The thing is I will do it slow as shit and check everything 10 times. I'm doing it more out of just wanting to do it than anything else. I think its fun.. Its my hobby.

lextrep
03-25-2010, 06:13 PM
Thats what im saying, if you dont know what your doing with these engines, dont do them, or you have to take your time with them. If you take it to a shop to get the work done, they will most definite make a mistake and have something go wrong, .

That pretty much applies to any repair.....Any COMPETENT mechanic should be able to do this repair without ANY problems........There is no magic to the 2.7 engine...A Competent mechanic is no more likely to make a mistake on this job than any other....Any internal engine repair requires enough knowledge to know if the repair will fix the problem and if the engine is in good enough condition otherwise to justify the expense...After more than a dozen successful 2.7 water pump/timing chain repairs, I would have to say that they will not most definitely make a mistake and have something go wrong just because it is a 2.7 engine!!.....

If you have the luxury of time it is a good idea to take the valve covers and front covers off to get a look at the general engine condition, then order the parts you will need ....
Good Luck!!

TrepCruzin
03-25-2010, 09:50 PM
What mistakes do they typically make??

On this motor I have run into guys that have tried complete the job with.....

1.) failed primary tensioner reinstallation

2.) creating there own timing markers on the cam sprockets

3.) Striping bolts 9...10...11 on the heads

4.) 1 or 2 missing bolts on the waterpump

5.) Failing to tighten the bolts on the cam sprocket

6.) Loose cam caps

7.) Complete bypass of the PCV system

8.) Duck tape holding primary wires to the starter

9.) Electrical tape holding injectors to fuel rails and electrical connectors

This is what I can remember of the top of my head that I have encounter on the last 6 of the 2.7's I have worked on.

Almostready
03-25-2010, 10:04 PM
Yep. It is the spacer for the guide. I would replace all the guides. When I tore mine down the right side secondary guide was broken. The tensioner is separate and runs about 150.00 for the OEM part. You may be able to purge the oil out of yours and reuse it. There is a good "How To" thread for a water pump replacement. I also posted many pictures and questions in a thread when I did mine. The thread is titled "Reviving a 2.7".

Hope it goes well. Be sure to clean out the oil pan.

TrepCruzin
03-25-2010, 11:45 PM
I believe that it was already prematurely worn. The timing chain/water pump/oil pump swap didn't cause it to go.

That's why I believe in dropping the pan on these motors...especially when you have gone through the process of tearing a quarter of the motor to do the water pump.....it's just one more step to do a bottom end rebuild if necessary. Out of the last 6 I done...1 needed a bottom end rebuild......regrounded crank......new bearings.....that one I had to have the heads done on it too.

Did you get yours up and running again?

peva
03-26-2010, 09:05 PM
On this motor I have run into guys that have tried complete the job with.....

1.) failed primary tensioner reinstallation

2.) creating there own timing markers on the cam sprockets

3.) Striping bolts 9...10...11 on the heads

4.) 1 or 2 missing bolts on the waterpump

5.) Failing to tighten the bolts on the cam sprocket

6.) Loose cam caps

7.) Complete bypass of the PCV system

8.) Duck tape holding primary wires to the starter

9.) Electrical tape holding injectors to fuel rails and electrical connectors

This is what I can remember of the top of my head that I have encounter on the last 6 of the 2.7's I have worked on.When I did mine, I came close to messing up. See post no. 4 here about not confusing the old-style water pump gasket as part of the block like I did: http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/forums/showthread.php?t=167161

Also, when pressing the new crank sprocket on, for some reason, it got almost all the way on (maybe 1/16" shy of being flush against the crank diameter step) and it hung - I mistakenly thought it was home because turning the press suddenly *felt* solid. Realized it wasn't by making the measurement that the FSM talks about (length of crank sticking out beyond sprocket). Problem solved by pulling it back off, inspecting and cleaning off the crank and sprocket real good and applying a film of oil to the crank, and it went on Ok then.

Also - I did the valve stem seals, and my air compressor (used to pressurize the cylinders so the valves don't drop into the cylinders) does not have a water/moisture trap on it. The exposure to water from the compressed air swelled the carbon on the tops of the pistons so that it kept the pistons from reaching TDC when turning the engine by hand - like hitting a brick wall (thick carbon hitting cylinder head). Fortunately I didn't use the starter to spin the engine before I gently turned it by hand. I ended up softening/dissolving the carbon by pouring some Sea Foam into each cylinder and letting it sit for a few minutes. If that had not worked, I don't know what I would have done (heads would have had to be removed!).

So yeah - those are *THREE* close calls I had on mine - any one of them could have meant disaster if I had not been taking my time and triple checking everything as I went along.

TrepCruzin
03-26-2010, 09:36 PM
Also, when pressing the new crank sprocket on, for some reason, it got almost all the way on (maybe 1/16" shy of being flush against the crank diameter step) and it hung - I mistakenly thought it was home because turning the press suddenly *felt* solid.

There a tricky little motor.....the 1st one I did I almost messed it up too.....but that crank sprock is always a PITA for me......I now have a metal pipe an 1 1/4" diameter and 2 1/2 feet long I use just for that sprocket.

peva
03-26-2010, 10:18 PM
There a tricky little motor.....the 1st one I did I almost messed it up too.....but that crank sprock is always a PITA for me......I now have a metal pipe an 1 1/4" diameter and 2 1/2 feet long I use just for that sprocket.I made a press from a schedule 80 pipe nipple. Welded an extra thick flat washer on the end, and a small nipple on the side to stick a screwderiver thru to keep it from turning while tightening the crank bolt:

http://images44.fotki.com/v1468/photos/6/42816/7438005/Newcranksprocket-vi.jpg

TrepCruzin
03-26-2010, 11:01 PM
I made a press from a schedule 80 pipe nipple. Welded an extra thick flat washer on the end, and a small nipple on the side to stick a screwderiver thru to keep it from turning while tightening the crank bolt:

http://images44.fotki.com/v1468/photos/6/42816/7438005/Newcranksprocket-vi.jpg

I like that.....I don't need the 20lb hammer to the pipe method.....I'm sorry i'm going to have to steal your method now!!! :highfive:

peva
03-27-2010, 04:56 PM
I like that.....I don't need the 20lb hammer to the pipe method.....I'm sorry i'm going to have to steal your method now!!! :highfive:No problem.

The only thing I would change on that is to make the side nipple the next size up pipe size. When the highest torques were needed during the pressing operation, a large screwdriver thru that nipple tended to bend more than I liked. You need to be able to put something a little more stout thru that nipple.

Shed. 80 2" x 2-1/2" long nipple (seamless) - McMaster-Carr no. 7727K344

1/2" x 2" long pipe nipple (I used 3/8" pipe size - this is one size bigger) - McMaster-Carr no. 44615K434 (wouldn't hurt to go with 2-1/2" long - McMaster-Carr no. 44615K444)

2-1/2"OD x 0.688"ID x 1/4" thick washer - McMaster-Carr no. 91117A234 (unfortunaely you have to buy pak of 5 at about $10/pak)

peva
03-30-2010, 12:50 PM
It looks like the mounting bolt and spacer for the right side chain guide??Ahh yes - it's coming back to me now.

dbakerparks
03-31-2010, 09:01 AM
About to buy the kit from Steve White Motors.
Trying to be sure on part numbers.
Kit is 68036788AA or 68036788AB supposedly upgraded to AB ? What's the diff.?
Redesigned water pump is in this kit and is supposed to be 4892425AA ?
Primary tensioner is not in the kit but is 4792443AB ?

I Have heard the kit is different P/N depending on # of connectors going into the PCM.
4 connectors= NGC pcm and 2 connectors = SBEC pcm. ( diff. cam gears depending)

Anyone confirm this info?

Thanks

Grinker
03-31-2010, 09:12 AM
About to buy the kit from Steve White Motors.
Trying to be sure on part numbers.
Kit is 68036788AA or 68036788AB supposedly upgraded to AB ? What's the diff.?
Redesigned water pump is in this kit and is supposed to be 4892425AA ?
Primary tensioner is not in the kit but is 4792443AB ?

I Have heard the kit is different P/N depending on # of connectors going into the PCM.
4 connectors= NGC pcm and 2 connectors = SBEC pcm. ( diff. cam gears depending)

Anyone confirm this info?

Thanks

Yup I believe the difference in part number has to do with the number of connectors to the PCM. I ordered the kit last week. I called to have them include a tensioner and give the vin and they wanted the number of connectors to the PCM . FYI I didnt have them include the tensioner over the phone because it was more than what they charge on there site. They said it was because if they include it with the eBay order they have to charge the eBay price. They advised I order the tensioner through the site. It was the cheapest I have seen and included free shipping WOOT! They were great to deal with.

dbakerparks
03-31-2010, 09:40 AM
So, did your PCM have 2 honker connectors with only 2 discrete wire bundles coming out or 4 individual connectors with 4 separate wire bundles ( harness)?
By site did you mean stevewhitemotors.com or Ebay?

dbakerparks
03-31-2010, 09:49 AM
Grinker,
what part number for the kit did you end up ordering and what was the price?

thanks

Grinker
03-31-2010, 10:00 AM
2 Big connectors from the pcm, I meant there site - the parts site is stevewhiteparts.com, didnt get the part number, but its coming today when I get it I'll let you know.

dbakerparks
03-31-2010, 10:39 AM
You pay $231 or $157 ?

Grinker
03-31-2010, 10:57 AM
231 where was it 157

dbakerparks
03-31-2010, 03:58 PM
68036788AB is $157 and may not have the pump but is supposed to have all the guides and sprockets
mopardiscount parts.com and moparpartsamerica.com list it for $157 that's why I want to know your P/N for the kit?

Thx

primetime
03-31-2010, 05:08 PM
So for $157 you get 2 guides, the primary chain, the cam chains, and the sprokets?
No tensioner?

peva
03-31-2010, 09:29 PM
68036788AB is $157 and may not have the pump but is supposed to have all the guides and sprockets
mopardiscount parts.com and moparpartsamerica.com list it for $157 that's why I want to know your P/N for the kit?...
So for $157 you get 2 guides, the primary chain, the cam chains, and the sprokets?
No tensioner?In general, the primary tensioner is not included in the kits.

FWIW - The kit I installed on my '99 was P/N 68036788AA (did not include the water pump), and I paid $152.95 (mopardiscountparts.com) - that was in March of '08. The tensioner was $100.22

TrepCruzin
03-31-2010, 09:40 PM
68036788AB is $157 and may not have the pump but is supposed to have all the guides and sprockets
mopardiscount parts.com and moparpartsamerica.com list it for $157 that's why I want to know your P/N for the kit?

Thx

Yep...as peva stated....that's separate....that's one part you don't want to fail....so don't skip on price....I think I spend somewhere around $ 66.00 for them.

In general, the primary tensioner is not included in the kits.

va3ux
03-31-2010, 10:34 PM
That's simply not true. I did mine a year and a half ago at 207k miles - drive it every weekday 80 miles. It now has over 230k on it and runs great. I am a 58-1/2 year old DIY'er with a day job that doesn't involve cars. Va3ux (Phil) did his at around 217k - now has, IIRC, over 270k on it.

OK - now that I told you that, you can never again say "Every single time i have heard someone doing a 2.7 multiple chain and pump job the motor always blew the **** up after they were done" like you did in the first sentence of that post. I just gave you 2 examples. :)

Bill is right (good memory Bill - all the numbers are right). I did mine at 217K miles and I've almost put another 60K and 2 years on the motor since then. Currently at 271K miles.

Ya know Bill, maybe there are some advantages to this aging thing. A little bit of wisdom, no longer in a hurry to prove anything to anyone so we actually read all the instructions (several times), take our time, check our work - and it all works when we're done. And I'm not very far behind you in the years dept.

peva
04-01-2010, 10:48 PM
Bill is right (good memory Bill - all the numbers are right).Hey - like a guy at work says all the time: "Even a blind hog finds an acorn every once't in a while."

I did mine at 217K miles and I've almost put another 60K and 2 years on the motor since then. Currently at 271K miles.

Ya know Bill, maybe there are some advantages to this aging thing. A little bit of wisdom, no longer in a hurry to prove anything to anyone so we actually read all the instructions (several times), take our time, check our work - and it all works when we're done. And I'm not very far behind you in the years dept.