Quality of New Mopar Timing chain/water pump Kit [Archive] - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat

: Quality of New Mopar Timing chain/water pump Kit


labrat
02-02-2011, 01:35 AM
Hello all,

I've been reading tons of posts on this site over the last few weeks and I've learned so much that I'm very confident working on my Dad's Intrepid. Thanks already for all your help!

This car was originally my company vehicle which I bought and gave to my dad about 7 years ago. It has always been well maintained and has been a good car. It is a 2000 Intrepid with the 2.7 and it only has 78K miles. I recently brought the car home to do the brakes and so far I've finished the brakes, I've replaced the hood and deck lid lifts, Inner and tie rod bushings and all four bushings on the rack and pinion. Now I'm doing the water pump, oil pump, timing chain, guides and tensioner. All of this stuff had normal wear, and not causing any problems yet but I thought it would be good to service before anything failed and caused bigger problems. The inside of the motor was clean and there was very little build up in the corners of the valve covers. I followed the advise of a few members on this site and I bought a factory service manual. Although its been a bit of work, I'm acutally enjoying myself and can't wait to fire it back up.

I'm waiting for a replacement water pump as kit I ordered was packed incorrectly and had the old style pump (big teeth) but the timing chain and gear set were the newer style (small teeth). The new pump should be here tomorrow, hope to have everything back together this weekend. All of the parts are factory Mopar that I ordered from Steve White Motors in North Carolina and are the new redesigned version for the 2.7.

Here's my question: The new chain is significantly lighter and smaller (in size, not length) than the orginal one, how can it be better by being so much less "beefy" than what I just took out? Also the left side chain guide is now all plastic instead of the aluminum body with the nylon chain guide. It this really a better set up than what was originally installed? The only thing I can think of is that perhaps there's less chain stretch since the pins are so much smaller...other than that I kind of like the original set better. Does anyone have the technical reason for the changes and how they are better? I'd be very interested to know, I really like understanding the rationale behind the way things are designed and how they work.

Great site, thanks for you input!

John

beeblebrox82
02-02-2011, 01:45 AM
Welcome to the site! Hopefully RJ chimes in soon, he's very knowledgeable on 2.7 parts and maintenance, you ordered this kit from the dealer?

TrepCruzin
02-02-2011, 02:40 AM
it sounds like your on top of it......whether you have to old tooth or new tooth design don't really matter......when they came out with the smaller tooth design it was thought that made a difference.....they have pretty much phased that out and it's becoming tougher to find those kits.....bottom line if the primary tensoner fails you can have 80 tooth design it still will skip time. things that i have found that will help in prolonging the 2.7 is to make sure you get the newer water pump with the all metal gasket and one of most recent finds the stop block for the primary tensoner.......i just recently had a 1 year old tensoner fail and it was shear luck that it didn't damage the motor. Below a link to 2.7 stuff

http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?p=1719443

improved waterpump with all metal gasket
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj172/rgssr68/02%20SE/DSC00706.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj172/rgssr68/02%20SE/DSC00705.jpg

stop block
I have an update on the stop block for the primary tensoner. I spoke with the owner (Raymond) of the company to get further details as far as the product and more importantly how they came up with it and really I have tell you I don't get taken back that often but I do have to say these guys really have there stuff together with the design of this product.......they came out with it alittle more then 3 years ago but business on that stop block has really taken off in the last 7 to 10 months. Raymond was telling me that a hand full of about 45 or 50 d/c dealers are ordering them in bulk currently and it's starting to catch on with more and more people.

http://www.fix27engine.com/images/with%20stop%20block.jpg

I have put a order of 3 of them 2 of which i will install in my own cars i soon as i get mine. For me as of this day on forward every 2.7 that i put my hands on WILL have this stop block installed and especially after my most recent situation of the primary tensoner failing.

The price that there selling the stop block for is: $24.95
http://www.fix27engine.com/
U.S. Seal Inc. 800-777-6974

chillz1
02-02-2011, 05:08 PM
Yeah, but how do you know you're getting the improved design waterpump, if it has the old chain/pitch? Does the metal gasket alone dictate that?

peva
02-02-2011, 08:53 PM
Yeah, but how do you know you're getting the improved design waterpump, if it has the old chain/pitch? Does the metal gasket alone dictate that?Yes. The new gasket is a lot thinner (better design like RJ said), and the pump is thicker by the difference in thickness between old and new-style gaskets (inner surface of the timing cover bolts flush to the front surface of the water pump - mismatch of the pump and gasket would permanently and irreparably warp the timing cover - which means it would never properly seal the front of the engine - oil out, dirt in). The thin all-metal gasket is how you know it is the new pump design (independent of the sprocket pitch).

I have to think that the new pump and gasket design (and finer pitch chain for that matter) are design (reliability) improvements for when the post LH car platforms were introduced. Chrysler knew it had to improve the 2.7 for long term reliability over and above what the LH cars had with the 2.7. The timing components and water pump were some of the many little changes they did over the years to acccomplish that.

We can benefit by using the new parts on our engines whenever possible.

labrat
02-02-2011, 10:10 PM
That was quick!

Beeblebrox82: Yes I bought all Mopar parts from Stevewhitemotors, a dodge dealer in NC. They were reasonalble and had great service.

RJ: You're the 2.7 man! Looks like I will be going with the small pitch set up. Are you saying that Dodge is going back to the larger pitch gears? I did get the thin metal gasket with the large pitch pump so I know it was the updated design, but I didn't realize they were still making the large pitch pumps. I thought it had been replaced entirely by the new small pitch gears and thin gasket. I'm still nervous about the smaller chain and plastic chain guide (left side). Have you used the smaller chain and plastic guide on any of your projects? I'm thinking about re-using the old aluminum guide, do you think I'm over analyzing this? Can I reuse the water pump gasket when the correct pump arrives? I installed the large pitch pump and torqued to spec before realizing it was not the right one for the chain and crank gear that was in the kit.

Thanks Guys!

That guide stop block looks like a good idea, wonder why Dodge didn't come up with it. Sounds like the dealers are using them even though they're not factory parts...interesting. I think they would really help in saving your motor if the tensioner failed, but how would most people know that the chain was riding on the guide stop block? I'm guessing they would just keep driving until the block failed and caused engine failure.

TrepCruzin
02-03-2011, 01:08 AM
as far as the large pitch design that is what has been used from the factory since 98 and is currently being used in the 2010 chargers and 300s. the small pitch design came into play in the secondary market and was believe it was designed by d/c.......it was designed by a independent secondary company.....see if mopar markets it as there creation then they would have to admit fault in the original design as being flawed.....they're not going to do that....just like the stop block d/c would have to take blame in the original design concept that's why the dealers are taking the responsibility and the stop block is catching on in the secondary market.

I see nothing wrong with going with the small pitch setup so long as you can find it....with the current waterpump gasket you have just like Bill metioned above it is very important that the gasket matches the pump that it's designed for if you use the wrong gasket with the wrong pump then you will have problems with the timecover and it sealing properly. As far as metal or plastic guides i have used them both....the car pictured in my siggy below has the plastic guides.....i installed them a little over 18 months ago and they have been fine.....i do prefer the metal ones as that is what is factory stock.

peva
02-03-2011, 08:37 AM
RJ - I may be mis-reading what you said, but if you're saying that Chrysler doesn't sell the finer-pitch version of the chain, water pump, cam sprockets, and crank sprocket, that is not the case. In the job I did on my 2.7, I ordered a Chrysler finer-pitch kit that I got from a dealer - included everything except the w.p., which I bought separately from the same dealer. I believe those are the parts used on the LX's.

TrepCruzin
02-03-2011, 11:01 AM
RJ - I may be mis-reading what you said, but if you're saying that Chrysler doesn't sell the finer-pitch version of the chain, water pump, cam sprockets, and crank sprocket, that is not the case. In the job I did on my 2.7, I ordered a Chrysler finer-pitch kit that I got from a dealer - included everything except the w.p., which I bought separately from the same dealer. I believe those are the parts used on the LX's.

oh no of coarse they sell it....but it's not an oem part that was designed by d/c....it maybe a oem authorized part but i still can't find the connection if you find the part it will be in the dealer network.......

I chuckle when i read ads like this one because they mislead you into think your buying a park directly for d/c....when your not...http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350340804158+&viewitem=
in the ad you don't see a part # just that it's a mopar part
Don't miss understand I think the small pitched timing is another great way to prelong the life of a 2.7.....but i think it's just as important that people know truely where the part comes from.

when i go to mopar parts it's not listed.....http://parts.mopar.com/dodge/intrepid-parts.html

If i'm wrong I'll stand corrected but I can't any evidence other then this is a part from the secondary market being passed as d/c OEM.....i can't find any documation that shows other wise or that d/c directly is responsible for the design.

TrepCruzin
02-03-2011, 11:18 AM
acually i might stand corrected.......it appears that the small pitch might be factory spec in the lx's.......I just wish i could find further documentation on it.....

the problem i have is i have openned some of the 06 and 07's only to find the large pitch style

peva
02-03-2011, 08:20 PM
I'm not sure what all that you said means - probably nothing wrong with what you said - just that I don't understand it. All I know is that I bought from a dealer and used Chrysler P/N 68036788AA (later rolled to ...AB) - a kit that included the fine pitch chain, cam sprockets, all guides, crank sprocket - no water pump, no tensioner. The part doesn't come up anymore. I remember reading that someone later had a different Chrysler part number for a kit that included the water pump (can't remember about the tensioner) - probably the ebay kit you just linked.

Not sure I agree that that ebay kit isn't genuine Mopar. They explicitly say it is. They don't give the part number so you can't go to another dealer and get it?

TrepCruzin
02-03-2011, 08:39 PM
I'm not sure what all that you said means - probably nothing wrong with what you said - just that I don't understand it. All I know is that I bought from a dealer and used Chrysler P/N 68036788AA (later rolled to ...AB) - a kit that included the fine pitch chain, cam sprockets, all guides, crank sprocket - no water pump, no tensioner. The part doesn't come up anymore. I remember reading that someone later had a different Chrysler part number for a kit that included the water pump (can't remember about the tensioner) - probably the ebay kit you just linked.

Not sure I agree that that ebay kit isn't genuine Mopar. They explicitly say it is. They don't give the part number so you can't go to another dealer and get it?

I hadn't had my 1st cup of coffee yet....lol

it's something that i'm going looking into further...the whole details and origins around the small pitch timing componnets is some what of a mystery......like i was mentioning I have seen the larger pitch used in the new 2.7's also i have seen the small pitch used too.......one source is telling me that d/c designed it....another source is telling me they had nothing to do with the design......so now i'm back off to research mode again.....:D

labrat
02-03-2011, 08:46 PM
Hey Guys,

I'm on road for work so I can't check the part numbers, but I did purchase from Steve White. Not on ebay but rather their own website. All of the parts they shipped came in Mopar boxes and appear to be factory parts. When I talked to them on the phone prior ro placing my order, they indicated that they were a high volume parts dealer and bought in great quantites form D/C. I had actually gone to a local dealer to inquire and they gave me the same part numbers as Steve White but they were at least 25% higher in price. When I get home I'll post all the part numbers and prices, maybe it will help someone out.

Wife confirmed that my replacement pump has arrived so hopefully I'll get this car running again this weekend!

TrepCruzin
02-03-2011, 09:34 PM
Hey Guys,

I'm on road for work so I can't check the part numbers, but I did purchase from Steve White. Not on ebay but rather their own website. All of the parts they shipped came in Mopar boxes and appear to be factory parts. When I talked to them on the phone prior ro placing my order, they indicated that they were a high volume parts dealer and bought in great quantites form D/C. I had actually gone to a local dealer to inquire and they gave me the same part numbers as Steve White but they were at least 25% higher in price. When I get home I'll post all the part numbers and prices, maybe it will help someone out.

Wife confirmed that my replacement pump has arrived so hopefully I'll get this car running again this weekend!

if you can i would like to get the part #'s

va3ux
02-04-2011, 08:00 AM
when i go to mopar parts it's not listed.....http://parts.mopar.com/dodge/intrepid-parts.html

If i'm wrong I'll stand corrected but I can't any evidence other then this is a part from the secondary market being passed as d/c OEM.....i can't find any documation that shows other wise or that d/c directly is responsible for the design.

I just browsed that link and from what I see, I would not order through it. For a 2001 2.7, it shows a crude drawing of a timing belt; no timing chain or related parts to be found anywhere. For the water pump, all it shows is " N/A".

labrat
02-05-2011, 12:46 AM
Okay guys, new pump is here and it's the small pitch gear so I'm good to go. I'll start putting this thing back together tomorrow. I pulled my invoice and I checked the part numbers against what is on on the boxes and everything matches up. All parts are Mopar, made in Canada and tensioner is from D/C germany.

4792443AB TENSIONER $109.04
4892425AA WATER PUMP SMALL PITCH GEAR $64.00 (COMES WITH THIN METAL GASKET)
4792005AC TIMING COVER GASKET $8.09
4663618 TIMING COVER CRANK SEAL $5.59
68036788AB TIMING CHAIN KIT WITH SMALL PITCH GEARS AND GUIDES $168.72
4892311AA WATER PUMP GAKSET $6.73 (DIDN'T REALLY NEED THIS COMES WITH PUMP)
4663745AC OIL PUMP $80.86
4792068 O-RING SEAL FOE OIL PUMP $1.68

4892225AA WATER PUMP WITH LARGE PITCH GEAR $86.07 (this is the one they shipped the first time that did not match the pitch of the timing chain kit)

If you go to stevewhiteparts.com you will find all of these parts except the small pitch water pump. Obviously they have them, but the web site is not up to date.

Although it all adds up, I feel good about using the factory replacement parts, all of the Chinese parts in the market scare the crap out of me!

RJ: Do you think it would be okay to use the old left side chain guide (aluminum one) instead of the new plastic one? Plastic parts inside the motor make me really nervous! Thanks.

Finally, FSM says to prime the oil pump by filling the rotor cavity. I can do that but won't all the oil run out of the pick up tube when I mount the pump? Any advise you have for the first start up would be appreciated.

John

TrepCruzin
02-05-2011, 01:25 AM
Okay guys, new pump is here and it's the small pitch gear so I'm good to go. I'll start putting this thing back together tomorrow. I pulled my invoice and I checked the part numbers against what is on on the boxes and everything matches up. All parts are Mopar, made in Canada and tensioner is from D/C germany.

4792443AB TENSIONER $109.04
4892425AA WATER PUMP SMALL PITCH GEAR $64.00 (COMES WITH THIN METAL GASKET)
4792005AC TIMING COVER GASKET $8.09
4663618 TIMING COVER CRANK SEAL $5.59
68036788AB TIMING CHAIN KIT WITH SMALL PITCH GEARS AND GUIDES $168.72
4892311AA WATER PUMP GAKSET $6.73 (DIDN'T REALLY NEED THIS COMES WITH PUMP)
4663745AC OIL PUMP $80.86
4792068 O-RING SEAL FOE OIL PUMP $1.68

4892225AA WATER PUMP WITH LARGE PITCH GEAR $86.07 (this is the one they shipped the first time that did not match the pitch of the timing chain kit)

If you go to stevewhiteparts.com you will find all of these parts except the small pitch water pump. Obviously they have them, but the web site is not up to date.

Although it all adds up, I feel good about using the factory replacement parts, all of the Chinese parts in the market scare the crap out of me!

RJ: Do you think it would be okay to use the old left side chain guide (aluminum one) instead of the new plastic one? Plastic parts inside the motor make me really nervous! Thanks.

John

thanks for the part #'s

as far as the guide can you snap me some pictures so that I can look at it.

peva
02-05-2011, 10:16 PM
...Finally, FSM says to prime the oil pump by filling the rotor cavity. I can do that but won't all the oil run out of the pick up tube when I mount the pump? Any advise you have for the first start up would be appreciated...The idea is to seal up the air gaps between the moving pump parts so that it when it starts running, it can create enough of a vacuum to pull oil up the pickup tube until it can reach the pump for full prime.

When I did my chain, etc. and new oil pump, with the oil filter off, I stuck a clear plastic tube of just the right OD to seal against the hole into the pump outlet port of the filter adapter (actually, the closest fit plastic tube was slightly too big, so I used a grinder to chamfer the tip of the hose so I could start it into the pump outlet port and push it in enough to stay and seal). The pump's outlet port is not the center hole of the filter adapter - it's the other hole (to the side). I then hung the other end of the tube from the hood and used a squirt can that I had filled with motor oil to fill the tube with oil and let it back drain thru the pump while I did other final preparations to start it. The very last thing I did just before cranking the engine was remove that tube and install the filter (could have filled the filter with oil too, but I didn't - instead I squirted oil all over moving parts that I could reach and backfilled the oil galleries in the tops of the heads to lube things until full oil flow was established once started).

labrat
02-06-2011, 12:58 PM
PEVA: That sounds good, I get some tubing this morning and get this rascal primed!

I got most everything together yesterday but had a couple of scares along the way...maybe I can save someone else the grief!

After I finished installing the water pump and all the timing components, I figured I try fitting the timing cover on just to see if everthing was lined up. Well, when I put the timing cover on with no gasket, it did not seat flush against the engine block...I FREAKED! I thought maybe had had the wrong pump again since the legs on the timing cover seemed to be bottoming out on the pump. I used some paint on the end of the timing cover legs to prove that they were bottoming out and when I pulled the cover off I could see paint on the machined bosses on the pump. I decided to measure the thickness of the old water pump and aluminum spacer against the new water pump and thin metal gasket. I still had the new pump with the large pitch gear (this is the one that stevewhiteparts sent on the first order my mistake) on the bench that I had not sent back yet that I figured was the same as the one I just installed with the small pitch gear. Both are the new design with the thin metal gasket. When measuring the new pump with gasket at the boss for the timing cover bolt, I got .5000", the old pump with the aluminum spacer measured .4850". That's about .0140" difference which I figured probably didn't matter for this application. For some reason I decided to try again with the the timing cover gasket and when I opened the bag I was happy to see that the gasket was a thick metal piece with the rubber seal attached. Once I popped the gasket on the cover seemed to fit flush so I torqued all the bolts to spec and everthing fits fine. That was a close one...

Second scare came after bolting on the oil pan and the brace that goes between the engine and the transmission. After torquing to spec in the correct sequence, I notice oil dripping between the engine and trans, right off the brace. It looked like motor oil, but I had not put any oil in the engine yet. I quickly took the brace off to investigate and I'm pretty sure it was just residual oil that was still in the bell housing that probably leaked in there when I dropped the pan. I shot some carb cleaner in there and then dried everything out with a rag. Bolted everything back together and luckily did not find any oil on the ground or the engine/trans brace this morning. I think I lucked out again.

So today I'm going to pop the valve covers back on and try to get the rest of the intake done. May have to wait until tomorrow to try and fire it up, got company coming over later today.

One thing that is a little wierd though is that the timing chain tensioner kind of moves around when I turn the engine over by hand. After I got the timing chain all done and I released the new tensioner, everthing looked great. I decided to turn the motor over by hand just to make sure everything was turning freely. As I turned the motor over clockwise, the tensioner seemed to pulsate slightly. I can can't figure out why that would happen, I thought the spring pressure would just keep tension on the tensioning guide/chain. Any explanation for that? Is this going to stop once it gets oil pressure? Will it have enough tension to keep the chain from skipping during start up? I just wish the tensioner didn't bounce around like it is, but maybe that's normal...

Please advise on this tensioner question, I'm hoping for some confirmation that it is okay before starting it up. Thanks.

JM

peva
02-06-2011, 01:41 PM
I think you're OK - as long as the tensioner is in fact released and the spring does extend it when there is nothing pressing in on the plunger, you can count on the oil pressure taking care of the rest after it pumps up. When you first start it up, you will hear some noise for maybe a second, then quiet runnning.

I remember that when I rotated the engine by hand that the tenensioner arm banged back and forth loudly as the cams overcentered - but that may have been before I released the tensioner - can't remember now.

zerokool
02-06-2011, 02:35 PM
wow your way over thinking this whole thing. alot of these motors run for ALOT of miles when properly maintained, you said your motor was clean inside.
BUT i do like how you are being pro-active. its really the way to go.
since you have the cash to throw down on thoes new parts thats going to be good for you.
any pics of the new gear would be appreciated.

part of me just is baffled at throwing money on new parts when the old ones were just fine.
i did 160,000+ on the old pump design and gasket, while never replacing it or anything besides oil.
ive read a few others doing crazy miles with the old design also.

with the sludge it seams logical to rebuild the pump/timing assembly ASAF***IN'P do a flush on the oil system etc. but if its not broke dont fix it has always been my thing.
still though, nothing wrong with new parts. that tentioner is a bit expensive. 109. i paid 90 @ my local dodge.

labrat
02-07-2011, 01:06 AM
PEVA: Thanks for you continued input, really appreciate it. I've got the oil primer hose set up and I'm gonna let it go all night. I can see the oil slowly creeping down the clear tube, works like a champ. Nice Tip!

"I remember that when I rotated the engine by hand that the tenensioner arm banged back and forth loudly as the cams overcentered - but that may have been before I released the tensioner - can't remember now."

That's exactly what's happening. Tensioner is definitely released, and it pops back and forth, didn't think about the pressure from the cams, I'm sure that's it. Thanks for mentioning that, I feel better now. I am 100% sure the timing marks and chain are lined up correctly, that noise sort of made me nervous.

ZEROCOOL: No question I have a tendenacy to over think things, that how I roll! :D This is my mom and dad's car so I try to stay a little head of the curve on service requirements. I don't have alot of time to tinker on the car so when I bring it over to my house I try to go thru it as best as I can. Although there were no known problems execpt a slight radiator leak (turned out to be a loose nut on the trans cooler return line in the radiator) and cracking belts, I'm glad I dug in a little deeper after reading many of the post on this web site. The water pump did start to show signs of bearing wear and the impeller had started to make contact with the block. I think I caught it just in time. The oil pump on the other hand...well I was there there so I figured what the heck!

I got most everything back together today, all that's left is the lower (driver side) radiator hose, and to be honest I just didn't fell like screwing around with it today. Looks like it will be a PITA to get off, but I'll deal with that tomorrow. One more run to the auto parts store for oil and anti-freeze should do it.

I only have a few pics from the cell phone, not very good but if you look carefully you can see the smaller pitch gears.

Should be running in a couple of days...:drool:

JM

TrepCruzin
02-07-2011, 01:51 AM
As I turned the motor over clockwise, the tensioner seemed to pulsate slightly. I can can't figure out why that would happen, I thought the spring pressure would just keep tension on the tensioning guide/chain. Any explanation for that? Is this going to stop once it gets oil pressure? Will it have enough tension to keep the chain from skipping during start up? I just wish the tensioner didn't bounce around like it is, but maybe that's normal...

Please advise on this tensioner question, I'm hoping for some confirmation that it is okay before starting it up. Thanks.

JM

yes that's pretty normal.....once the oil gets to the tensoner...it will be fine.

peva
02-07-2011, 08:59 PM
PEVA: Thanks for you continued input, really appreciate it. I've got the oil primer hose set up and I'm gonna let it go all night. I can see the oil slowly creeping down the clear tube, works like a champ. Nice Tip!...You're welcome. I did exactly the same thing - left it like that all night and refilled the tube again just before getting it ready to crank. The pump will definitely be primed.

I have a tendenacy to over think things, that how I roll!...From one anal-retentive to another - don't let it bother you. I can tell you though - you will get less like that the older you get (BTDT).

labrat
02-08-2011, 02:46 PM
IT"S ALIVE!

Turned the key and she fired right up! Made a little clicking sound for about 5 -6 seconds as the oil pressure built up and then quieted right down.

So far no leaks, everything seems fine and it sounds really smooth...except the OIL PRESSURE light is staying on. I don't think this has anything to do with the new parts installed, as I noticed it was on just before the tear down. Although the light was not on when I picked up the car from my mom and dad, it did come on after I pressure washed the bottom of the engine before starting the tear down. When I moved the car into the garage, I noticed the light was on but I figured it was just because something got wet and would eventually dry out. Well, two weeks later I would think things have dried off enough so not sure what's wrong. I pulled the plug off the oil pressure sensor to clean it out, put back together and the light still comes on. If I leave the sensor unplugged the light in the dash goes out. I guess the next step would be to replace the oil pressure sensor. I think my dad said it was replaced by GoodYear the last time he got the oil changed, maybe its bad already...perhaps aftermarket part.

If you have any suggestions please shoot them to me. Thanks!

JM

MrBigE
02-08-2011, 02:50 PM
My guess is the oil pressure sender has gone kaput - be sure to get an OEM model from the dealer. After market units have been known to not work from the get-go or fail not long after installation.

TrepCruzin
02-08-2011, 06:49 PM
that's good news....congrats....I have replaced quite a few of the oil pressure senders......get a mopar one....the aftermarket ones will give you grief.

labrat
02-08-2011, 11:59 PM
Well guys, it was a bad sending unit! Picked up a new one at Dodge and everything is working fine. I ran the car for about 30 minutes and there's no sign of anything leaking so I'm pretty happy. I want to double check all the vacuum lines tomorrow, just to make sure everything is hooked up.

I really haven't driven this car much since I gave it to my mom and dad, but seems like it is kind of slow to return to an idle after giving it the gas a few times. Is that how they all are? Probably has to do with emissions...

Anyway, Thanks again to everyone that chimed in on this project, all of your comments were very helpful. Wish I could fine this kind of help on all of my projects!

JM

peva
02-09-2011, 09:08 PM
Way to go!!

bridub
11-13-2012, 06:24 PM
I'd like to thank you guys for the great thread. I'm going through the same thing with my 02 intrepid. Only I'm doing it for my son, whom I gave the car too.

You've answered many of my questions and I will start putting back together tonight - parts just arrived today.