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: Amp Overheating


blkbute
05-12-2002, 12:11 AM
Well I was out today on a trip, and I was just listening to rock music, instead of bass hungry rap music, and after about 20 mins the amp just shut off, I was concerned but she came back on after 30 seconds or so, but then it shut off again, I toughed the amp, and it was bitch ass HOT. never had it that hot before, it always got hot but I hear Rockford Fosgate amps get hot to begin with, but I do not like it shutting down on me. Can some one help me with why it may be doing it? as for the setup, I have the amp on the back of the box witch faces the back seats, but I have the seats down to let bass through, and this also provides air for cooling the amp. SO I still do not know why this could be happining.

eatdirtfartdust
05-12-2002, 01:13 AM
Your just gonna have to turn down the gain on your amp or rig a cooling system.

morrissjeffa
05-12-2002, 01:48 AM
Chck your ground. It sounds like the MOSFET thermal protection circut was tripped. Just go over your connections and make sure your ground is strong. Also feel the cables that lead to your amp, if they are warm look to either getting thicker cables, or find a different ground. Good luck!
Jeff

RapidTransit
05-12-2002, 10:33 AM
I noticed that you just installed a cap. Any relation to your current problem? Just a thought...

blkbute
05-12-2002, 01:54 PM
I was thinking that also that the cap is shooting more power to the amp, so it may be taking that extra power and creating heat. also the thing with the ground wire, I have caps on the ends of my amp, and I think that the cap is squishing the wires slightly, I do not think its that bad of a squish though.

thump186
05-12-2002, 02:24 PM
what is the ohm rating you are running your amp at. the only reason your cap would cause this is maybe its allowing the power that you amp needs and if the ohm rating is to low and you amp is not stable to that ohm rating. rockford amps are built with thermal protection that if they start to get to hot they will shut down. also if you are turnig the amp up and trying to drive an ohm load that is to high or to low your amp will produce to much heat. what amount of speakers are you driving with te rockford and what are the ohm ratings and how are they wired this all plays into it? where are your gains set? did you run a seperate ground to a solid grounding point for your cap? please tell me you didnt ground it at the amp? i hope this helped some if you can think of more factors or question i'll try and help you. more then likely i would either say your grounding point or ohm load is doing it. if you need to find more help try the rockford web site at www.rockfordfosgate.com and try thier tech section they may be able to help.

blkbute
05-12-2002, 03:38 PM
well I have the amp running at 2 ohm stereo. I would run it bidged into 4 ohms but I have a dual sealed enclosure, and to make it work I would have to put a hole in the wall inside the box and then it will not be a propperly sealed box. As for the cap to trhe amp, I have taken the ground wire from the amp to the cap, to the chassis. I asked around and this is supposidly the way to do it. Gains are not set too high I think because I am running on a loc, so things would be too distorted if they are up too high. And as for having pinched wires, I think they are squished more then I thought they were, mabe I will have to remove the end cap from that side, or drill a hole for the wires to go through.

thump186
05-13-2002, 12:20 AM
run a seperate ground from your amp to a good chassis ground
and run one from the cap to a good chassis ground. i believe the way you have it hooked is causing your problem running the ground to your cap and then from your cap to ground is causing your overheating as it states here run seperate grounds for both this is right from rockford fosgate and is for all cap installations.
hope it helps

How do I install a stiffening capacitor to my amplifier?

Question
How do I install a stiffening capacitor to my amplifier?
What is the correct way to charge a stiffening capacitor?

Answer
Consider that installing a capacitor is a little like installing a battery - it needs to be charged up, connected to power & ground, and protected from shorting-out when installing.

Since a capacitor is not really a battery, it doesn't act like one. It will not store power for extended periods of time, and it does not require any type of maintenance. A capacitor stores power only briefly, as it is designed to charge and discharge instantly to give an amplifier the power it needs when it needs it. Additionally, unless it is connected to the car's charging system all the time, it will eventually begin to slowly lose its charge. Since it does not act as a long-term power storage device, it does not need charging up to a level of 12 Volts unless it has been removed from the system and it about to be re-installed. And since it is almost totally sealed (there is a vent at the top of high-quality capacitors to prevent explosion), it needs no maintenance whatsoever.

Installation is simple and straightforward! A stiffening capacitor should be mounted as close to the amplifier as possible, keeping the wire runs short to reduce the possibility of power loss through the cables. Use the mounting brackets supplied with the capacitor to secure it as close to the amplifier as possible. The capacitor may be mounted in any position. However, care should be taken to ensure the venting hole on the top is unobstructed at all times. This vent is a relief valve should the electrical polarity become crossed (+12 Volts hooked up to the negative terminal, and -12 Volts hooked up to the positive terminal at the same time). Should the capacitor be damaged due to reversed wiring, fluid will exit from this vent, making the capacitor useless due to damage.

When installing the capacitor, we recommend using the same gauge wire as that of the power & ground connection to the amplifier. Ground the capacitor's negative (-) terminal to the nearest chassis ground (usually the same place where the amplifier grounds to the chassis) using the same gauge wire as that used for the power connection. The capacitor's positive (+) terminal gets wired between the power wire and the amplifier. If the capacitor is to be used in a multi-amp system, a power distribution block may be used between the capacitor and the amplifiers. Remember - the secret to a successful capacitor installation is to install the capacitor as close to the amplifier(s) as possible. Note: Do not over-tighten the terminal screws. Stripped or broken terminals are not covered by ANY capacitor manufacturer's warranty.

Many capacitor manufacturer's supply a resistor (20- TO 50-ohm, 1-watt resistor) or charging card, which is used to initially charge the capacitor. The charging process is accomplished by connecting the resistor in-line between the positive side of the power wire and the positive terminal of the capacitor. DO NOT hold the resistor with your fingers! It gets very hot during charging, so it's best to hold it with a pair of long-nosed pliers. It is very important that polarity be observed and maintained during this process to eliminate the possibility of damaging the capacitor, the battery, or other associated equipment. Charging is complete when the voltage at the capacitor reaches that of the vehicle's battery, usually about 12.8 Volts. This process will take only a matter of seconds to complete. A voltmeter should be used to verify that the capacitor is fully charged. When the charging process is complete, the resistor may be disconnected and stored for later use

CLONE
05-14-2002, 03:15 AM
hey i have a one farad cap and i didnt charge it when i put it in my trep but it was charged when it was bought new...can this hurt the cap or make it usless and should i take it out and charge it even though its been in use for over a month now.

thump186
05-14-2002, 09:11 AM
no you dont have to charge it now. and unless someone charged they do not come charged when new that is why they tell you to charge it with a resistor before installing it. as far as doing anything it can cause blowing the capacitor which is just causing it to leak fluid all over you install. as far as shorting it out or what ever im not sure if it could cause this but im sure it could. caps do not carry a charge for a long period of time . but you've had it in your so it now has a charge.

trep87
03-13-2007, 09:31 PM
on that installation process, so do you take the power wire running from the battery and connect it to the positive terminal on the capacitor, then run it from that to the amp?