Electrical problem [Archive] - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat

: Electrical problem


interpretblurple
06-29-2005, 09:17 PM
Yea its definitely electrical...cuz heres the situation...first my doors wont lock (they will unlock) unless the key is physically out of the ignition...if the key is in the ignition the doors wont lock...but once its out the doors will lock without a problem...second thing so i turn the car in the on position and then the a/c will naturally come on but when i turn to start the car the a/c cuts off and the displays blank out like i just cut the power to everything..then after letting go back to the on position it comes the a/c and lights come back on....so yea def. electrical...i dont see what though i went over all the wires and dont see any bad connections...so i am pretty lost..i think that one ground strap on the passenger side that goes from the side of the body to a passeneger side of the plenum/block may need to be replaced because its kinda frayed on one side...hopefully that will fix it..but as of now still nothin my car wont start at all...and im lost to why...like its not like it just isnt turning over i mean it wont start...at all.

Torontofirecaptain
06-29-2005, 09:28 PM
Yea its definitely electrical...cuz heres the situation...first my doors wont lock (they will unlock) unless the key is physically out of the ignition...if the key is in the ignition the doors wont lock...but once its out the doors will lock without a problem...second thing so i turn the car in the on position and then the a/c will naturally come on but when i turn to start the car the a/c cuts off and the displays blank out like i just cut the power to everything..then after letting go back to the on position it comes the a/c and lights come back on....so yea def. electrical...i dont see what though i went over all the wires and dont see any bad connections...so i am pretty lost..i think that one ground strap on the passenger side that goes from the side of the body to a passeneger side of the plenum/block may need to be replaced because its kinda frayed on one side...hopefully that will fix it..but as of now still nothin my car wont start at all...and im lost to why...like its not like it just isnt turning over i mean it wont start...at all.


The door lock is normal, so that you can't accidently lock the car with the key in the ignition, even if it is off.

Thew AC seems normal too, when you turn the key to the start position, all other devices are pretty much bypassed so as not to get any errant power surges and to reduce the strain on the battery.
As long as the AC works correctly when it is in the "run " position, all should
be well.

As far as not starting, that's a different problem,

mrteacha
06-29-2005, 10:09 PM
nice to see you actively posting ..... how bout you respond to my pm's

interpretblurple
06-30-2005, 12:55 AM
how do you tell if those square box like fuses are blown? the ones that are under the hood in the black fuse box? cuz they look normal but i dont really have a way to see if they are blown...i mean at this point i am pretty sick of this bs cuz i have spent so much time and money into and its still giving me problems...i just want this car to work...plain and simple...so any ideas on what i can check or do? Right now the neg. battery cable is off so that i can let the systme reset or reclear itself overnight...hopefully this takes care of the problem..cuz the leaking coolant and leaking power steering fluid isnt a big of a problem as a acar that doesnt start...so yea i really need some feedback on this one

D76G12
06-30-2005, 01:33 AM
Did you finally get it to start after the engine swap? If so ...

Starter relay if the starter isn't turning over. ASD, fuel pump, or EAX(?) relay if the starter is turning over but the car won't start. What codes, if any was it giving you ...?

crombie
06-30-2005, 01:39 AM
Right now the neg. battery cable is off so that i can let the systme reset or reclear itself overnight.
All you need is 20 minutes. Not the whole night to reset the PCM.

mb-lhs
06-30-2005, 08:21 AM
Yea its definitely electrical...cuz heres the situation...first my doors wont lock (they will unlock) unless the key is physically out of the ignition...if the key is in the ignition the doors wont lock...but once its out the doors will lock without a problem...second thing so i turn the car in the on position and then the a/c will naturally come on but when i turn to start the car the a/c cuts off and the displays blank out like i just cut the power to everything..then after letting go back to the on position it comes the a/c and lights come back on....so yea def. electrical...i dont see what though i went over all the wires and dont see any bad connections...so i am pretty lost..i think that one ground strap on the passenger side that goes from the side of the body to a passeneger side of the plenum/block may need to be replaced because its kinda frayed on one side...hopefully that will fix it..but as of now still nothin my car wont start at all...and im lost to why...like its not like it just isnt turning over i mean it wont start...at all.


Kris i am sorry i couldn't come out there yesterday... But i can still offer advice....

As said before already, the accesories all seem to be functioning normally. Does the starter make any noise at all? If not, i suspect one of three things:

1) Loose wire at the starter. You know which one i'm talking about, the one we had to repair when we were putting the engine in.

2) Could the battery be dead again? It didn't seem dead that one day by looking at the dash lights and the accesories, but when we jumped it with ray's car the starter worked again.

3) (God forbid) Something is F*cked in that engine preventing it from turning. I don't really think this is it, but it's the only other reason i can think of that the starter wouldn't turn. Even if this was the case, you'd still hear the starter engage and try to turn....

That frayed ground on the passenger side won't effect the starter at all, the starter has it's own ground wire coming directly from the battery, which is bolted right next to the starter casing on the engine block.

If the starter is turning and the engine just isn't starting, then we have an entire new situtation to work on....

interpretblurple
06-30-2005, 11:29 AM
Kris i am sorry i couldn't come out there yesterday... But i can still offer advice....

As said before already, the accesories all seem to be functioning normally. Does the starter make any noise at all? If not, i suspect one of three things:

1) Loose wire at the starter. You know which one i'm talking about, the one we had to repair when we were putting the engine in.

2) Could the battery be dead again? It didn't seem dead that one day by looking at the dash lights and the accesories, but when we jumped it with ray's car the starter worked again.

3) (God forbid) Something is F*cked in that engine preventing it from turning. I don't really think this is it, but it's the only other reason i can think of that the starter wouldn't turn. Even if this was the case, you'd still hear the starter engage and try to turn....

That frayed ground on the passenger side won't effect the starter at all, the starter has it's own ground wire coming directly from the battery, which is bolted right next to the starter casing on the engine block.

If the starter is turning and the engine just isn't starting, then we have an entire new situtation to work on....

Mike you dont have to appologize man you had shit to do, besides you have helped plenty already...yea i just need to pinpoint where exactly my problem is I will go check around that starter wire because maybe it came out or it needs to be jiggled or something...because I am getting nothing from the starter...hence why i thought it was an electrical problem...but yea i will also check that battery situation...although i just charged it to full a day a ago...but yea i appreciate everyones help and responses...

Oh yeah how do you check to see if the relays are blown or not what does a blown one look like...fuses I have a little tester but for relays what do you look for?

dbaudiopro
06-30-2005, 12:29 PM
Everything you describe in your first post is 100% normal. The accessory circuit in the car is de-powered during "crank" to relieve electrical draw and allow as much current flow from the battery to turn over the engine.

As for testing fuses a continuity tester works great. Usually you can see a dark spot in the plastic between the terminals indicated it burned up. However, that's not always the case, so a continuity tester (an available setting on most every multimeter out there) is the best.

As for testing relays, they very rarely fail. You can test continuity between the normally closed and common contacts, but to test continiuity between the normally open and common you'll need to energize the coil. I would probably not worry about testing this until you've exhausted all other possibilities. Check the starter relay and make sure it's getting 12v from the key, then make sure all the wiring from the battery and alternator are connected properly. You also need to make sure the engine block is grounded to the chassis of the car (the engine mounts are pretty insulated by the rubber inserts). You can't have current flow without a ground connection between the battery and the engine block...

interpretblurple
06-30-2005, 12:35 PM
As for testing relays, they very rarely fail. You can test continuity between the normally closed and common contacts, but to test continiuity between the normally closed and common you'll need to energize the coil. I would probably not worry about testing this until you've exhausted all other possibilities. Check the starter relay and make sure it's getting 12v from the key, then make sure all the wiring from the battery and alternator are connected properly. You also need to make sure the engine block is grounded to the chassis of the car (the engine mounts are pretty insulated by the rubber inserts). You can't have current flow without a ground connection between the battery and the engine block...

ok well i checked the starter relay i even tried swapping it with the tcm shutdown relay since they are the same...still nothing..how do i check to see if its gettin 12v? Also what you were saying about the engine block being grounded...please go into a little more detail...what does the engine mounts have to do with the a good ground connection? I need more info on this...because this may be the reason.

dbaudiopro
06-30-2005, 12:37 PM
Typically there will be several braided ground straps between the engine block and the chassis. Rarely if ever are the engine mounts used as they typically isolated by rubber, some kind of fluid or other substance to prevent virbrations.

As for checking for 12v you'd really benefit from a multimeter for this job. It will allow you to safely check voltages, continuties, etc. etc...

OneFore9
06-30-2005, 02:55 PM
As for testing relays, they very rarely fail. You can test continuity between the normally closed and common contacts, but to test continiuity between the normally closed and common you'll need to energize the coil.

No biggie, but that should be normally open and common continuity when the coil is energized.

dbaudiopro
06-30-2005, 03:09 PM
Thinkin faster than i was typing. Good catch, thanks.

Corrected in original post...

To-Damax
07-01-2005, 01:02 PM
There is a green wire conected between the battery & the red wire going to the starter.
I would get a meter and pull back some of the tape after the green wire and check for continuity on each side of the (fuse link wire) green wire. As I said before the problem is in that area. Your ground wire is in place down by the starter that was tight last week. I am sorry that I was not able to help you lately, but the owners of my plant just told me to shut this plant down as of 8/31/05 and sell off the machines and such. Now with all of these problems (62) people that are going to hit the streets and some like me with 30+years I have been busy.