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Rough idle and slight heistation.

2K views 25 replies 11 participants last post by  vin_mcp 
#1 ·
Well, starting about two or three weeks ago, my check engine light would come on periodically after I had been driving for about 5 or 10 minutes. It continued to do this off and on for about three weeks. So I check the codes. Code 21, ok so its something with the oxygen sensor. Well, starting Monday I was driving down the interstate and it felt the like car was hesitating several times, then it went away and didn't do it the rest of the way. Well Tuesday morning I was almost at work, and the car starting hesitating under throttle once more, not real rough, just slight jerks. Well, I pulled in the parking lot and it seemed to go away. Car ran did ok on the way home. Wednesday,hesitations on the way to work, no hesitation on the way home but it didn't seem to have as much power as normal. The check engine light didn't come on during any of these times. So were should I look for the problem? By the way, I have 95 3.3L with 101,500 miles. So I try changing the O2 sensors? Try the plugs and wires? Or something else? Thanks for the help! :icon_smil
 
#2 ·
Anyone? No hesitations today, but my check engine light came on as I pulled into the driveway.
 
#3 ·
what year is your car? if it has an OBDII system, you can egt the codes scanned at Autozone and it'll tell you exactly what's wrong
 
#4 ·
Its a 95.
 
#5 ·
Good luck figuring your problem out. It sounds very similar to my problem and I still haven't solved it. See my post dated 11-1-05 "1997 3.3 occasional stumble/falter". I have since replaced the IAC motor. That helped smooth the idle but not the stumble/falter or hesitation as you may call it. I also unplugged and capped off the vacuum line to the EGR valve to see if that would help. No luck. This has been driving me nuts and I hate to keep throwing money at it but when the dealer can't even figure it out that really stinks. The engine has refused to throw me any codes for months and I not sure what to do next. I may just start replacing a sensor a month and hope for the best. Throttle Position Sensor is next on my list unless someone has a better idea.
 
#6 ·
Have you had your transmission worked on? If so check my other posts regarding engine running rich/bad/ruff. If not...

Have you checked your fuel pressure?
Have you checked your map sensor?
 
#7 ·
No transmission work. I haven't checked the MAP Sensor or Fuel Pressure
 
#9 ·
I am having a similar problem. Just my car won't start at all if I drive it around for a bit. It falters/stumbles, has no power, then straightens itself out, then the next morning it will not start, but I get it to the dealer and it starts with no problems. Can someone help?????

It is a 1997 Dodge Intrepid ES w/3.5L fully loaded.
 
#11 ·
plugs, wires, and coil pack would be my best guess for all of you guys having this problem.
a fumble on one of those 3 componenets would cause an engine misfire. Your car would nmo longer be firing on all 6 cylanders which is would explain the rough idle and hesitation.

Also, you need to take note of the importance of gapping your plugs correctly. Run the codes again, if you see a code 43 then the misfire is likely your problem. Pull the wires, make sure the plugs ends are clean and dry and reattach the wires securely.

Im willing to bet 95% of the rough idle problems on this site are caused by either badly gapped or damaged spark plugs, loose plug wires, or a bad coil pack. Fortunately, all of those problems are simple to fix.
 
#12 ·
Cars been running better the past couple of days since getting new gas, but still a slight hestitation occassionally, and seems to lack power. Going to replace the O2 Sensors and spark plugs next week, maybe wires as well.
 
#13 ·
Being one of the stumble/falter guys in this post, my wife came home tonight and said the check engine light was on. I pulled a code 43. First time for that code. My Haynes repair manual says a code 43 means "Peak primary circuit current not achieved with the maximum dwell time" In plain english does this mean a misfire? I replaced the plugs and plug wires about 4000 miles ago. Should I replace the coil packs next????
 
#17 ·
You say you have replaced your wires and plugs.
Just remember you can get bad wires so keep that in mind. New does not always mean it was good.

Also, what type of plugs did you put in. Hope you went with the normal Champion plugs for your engine. Many have tried "special" plugs and had problems with them running well in Int. engines.
 
#18 ·
mounts?

After checking with a neighbour of mine, he suggested i get my mounts looked at. He had me start the car and put it in gear - reverse, drive and park.
(Though i had the brake on)

The engine shifted around a whole bunch. After seeing this he suggested I change my mounts.

This is what I'm looking to change next I suppose.

:thinking:
 
#19 ·
Well - my check engine light went off all by itself after a week (had a code 43). The weather was nice today so I checked the coil pack. It seemed Ok but I went ahead and bought a new one anyway ($50 at Advance Auto Parts). Disconnected the batttery to clear any stored codes and installed new coil. After driving around town for 15 - 20 minutes I had a stumble/falter and the CEL came back on - code 43. Again - this is a very intermittent problem, I might go a couple days without it acting up. Wires and plugs (Champions) are less than a year old. Any suggestions?
 
#20 ·
I know it's giving an ingnition code, but have you done a fuel pressure check. I always start with the standard checks first. Fuel pressure, loose hoses, have you watched the engine in the dark at night to see if you see any corona or sparks on the wires.
Always pays to eliminate the easy stuff first...
 
#23 ·
gofor300 said:
Well - my check engine light went off all by itself after a week (had a code 43). The weather was nice today so I checked the coil pack. It seemed Ok but I went ahead and bought a new one anyway ($50 at Advance Auto Parts). Disconnected the batttery to clear any stored codes and installed new coil. After driving around town for 15 - 20 minutes I had a stumble/falter and the CEL came back on - code 43. Again - this is a very intermittent problem, I might go a couple days without it acting up. Wires and plugs (Champions) are less than a year old. Any suggestions?

Yes. hate to say it, but you may as well switch your spark plugs and wires.
My plugs and wires are new as well (less that 1 year) but after checking my plugs I found one all black, the boot of the wire had carbon tracking down one side. I changed the wires today. Now she purrs. ... I hope this helps.
 
#24 ·
Make sure the plugs are copper and gapped to .035. the underhood label will specify .043 but a TSB changed this due to poor engine starting in colder weather. I have had to change my plug wires 3 times so far (140k miles) since they are routed under the intake plenum wher eit gets very hot with that black cover over top. I left my cover off (its for show only). Also, run the new wires thru plastic split wire covers and tie wrap them every foot or so.
 
#26 ·
I had similiar issues. See what I did in thread (link below). I had pretty faulty O2 sensors too. They had been throwing a steady 21 for several months but car was running fine Then things went downhill very fast including stalling. I opted to change the two O2 sensors on top and cleared the code 21. Things smoothed out and car ran better for a while but still seems hard to start somewhat. My stumble / falter smoothed a bit too but after question in the thread below, I changed the fuel pressure regulator too, but stumble still seems to be lingering there a little...just not as bad as before. My next step will be to check the wires for arcing, etc. FYI,went with Champion coppers and stock wires. Also planning to do O2 sensor #3. Still not getting any codes though.

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