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Tranny Flush

889 views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  phoffer 
#1 ·
94 ES 3.5.

The other morning it was about 7 degrees F. I put the car in gear and it moved about 10 feet and then nothing. I sat with it in gear for about 10 minutes and then it caught. Went to leave and the transmission was in limp mode. Stopped for about 2 hours, still 7 degrees, it slipped slightly and caught. No limp mode this time.

This weekend, when it warmed up a little, I decided to flush about 9 quarts of the ATF+4 out the cooling line. Initally the flush started well until I got about 2 quarts out and with an additional 2 quarts in. The pump stopped pumping. I let it set idleing and eventually it began pumping again. I always replaced as much as came out.

For the last 4 quarts it would not pump unless it was in gear. Is this normal? I am thinking that my pump is weak or that the filter is clogged, doubtfull. It was replaced less than a year ago and 40K miles. After the flush I took it for a test drive and it was in limp mode again. Shut off the key and restarted it and the limp mode problem was gone. Warmed up the fluid pretty good to ensure that the level was correct.

Today it was a balmy 65 degrees, wierd for Ohio, and I drove it to Michigan, 300 miles with no problems. In fact I got better gas mileage than I have in years.

I am concerned that the next time that the temperature takes a "nose dive" that the problem will be back again.

Any suggestions?
 
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#2 ·
I wish I did my tranny runs shitty when its cold also but I cant think of anything to improve except to let your car warm up for a good 5-10min in the morning.
Do you really have 500k miles on your car? Congrats Im just about to hit 200k ..I thought that was a milestone.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Mine is a CHRYSLER Intrepid, built for Canada. The odometer and speedometer are in Kilometers. I currently have 518,000km which converts to 321,870 miles.

Today in Michigan it was 36 degrees and it moved the 10 feet or so, then I let it set, in gear, for a couple of minutes and it caught. Then I drove it another 200 miles with no problems.

Does anybody think this could be a filter problem?

Is there a difference between Park and Neutral? (other than the obvious)
 
#6 · (Edited)
In neutral, the pump circulates fluid, including thru the trans external radiator cooler. It just needs to warm up (as woudl any car engine) when its that cold. Never, never crank up a car in that temp and drive off before letting it sit at idle to warm up for about 5 minutes. One more thing, Chrysler has issued a TSB to replace the accumulator seals that were prone to leaking. At this temp, this could be your problem as well. To get to the accumulator piston, you have to remove the trans valve body. Simple procedure actually. Sonnax makes a shifter improver kit (SC-41TL) for about $90 that includes many of the valves and seals that you can replace in the valve body that are re-engineered to prevent some shift problems.
 
#7 · (Edited)
I had a similar problem with no engagement on the occassional morning.
I replaced the filter and fluid about a year ago. Dealer filter and Mopar ATF+4.

Transmission shop read my codes and found a 35. Loss of prime in pump.
After checking various data stored in the transmission computer he assured me my transmission was in good condition. One thing I remember seeing was CLI. Clutch life index. The computer notes how many milliseconds it takes to engage a clutch pack. From this info it can recognize the thickness of a clutch pack. Similar to you master cylinder going down as your front pads wear. He also noted engagement was not delayed. Puzzled as to why I have a code 35 he dropped the pan to check the filter and filter O ring.

Fluid looked almost new, magnet was pretty clean. He grabbed a filter for a 606?
Before he installed it he noted it was different than my old filter. I had indeed installed the filter the dealer gave me which was apparently incorrect but close enough to install. Differences were a bigger window and tabs to position the filter in a different spot.

BTW I also live where the weather is cold during the winter and I am a firm believer in warming a vehicle before driving but 5 minutes is truely a waste of time and money.

The engine oil is circulating within 2 seconds and unlike Mopar transmission from the 60-80's transmission fluid is pumping in park. Start the vehicle and within 1 minute you are good to go.
All you have to do is drive with a very light foot for at least 7 minutes.
 
#9 ·
On the morning that it was 7 degrees, I had let the car warm-up for 20 minutes. I always let it warm-up before driving. I don't think that I would have over 300K miles on the engine without failure if I didn't.

The transmission problem dosen't seem to have anything to do with the engine temperature. Once the transmission dis-engauges, I can sit with it in gear for a couple of minutes. Then it catches and is fine for hundreds of miles, or a short trip.
 
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