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Weird Problem on a 96 Concorde

2K views 37 replies 12 participants last post by  dodgerunner 
#1 ·
I am beginning to think the car is possessed.

The car starts fine, runs fine for a bit...until you idle a little while. Then the gauges slow down, the power steering and brakes stop, and the car stops. If you turn it off for a second, you can turn it right back on.

It is a 3.3. I have replaced:

the fuel filter
the PCV valve
the oil pressure sensor
the idle air control valve

I am thinking it may be the fuel pump, but before I shell out $300 (and follow the handy dandy step by step instructions on here), I was looking for an expert opinion.

Anything like this sound familiar to anyone? I appreciate any help I can get...
 
#5 ·
k-nash said:
I know a failing alternator can cause all kinds of problems, altho I am no pro maybe you should have alternator tested along with your battery
I forgot to mention I replaced the alternator, starter, battery, and serpentine belt as well.

Crap...I have replaced alot!
 
#9 ·
I am THINKING it has gotta be a sensor of some kind...

I am thinking about replacing:

TPS sensor
MAP sensor
Oxygen sensor

As a last resort, maybe the catalytic conveter.

Do any of you think one of these might fix it?
 
#10 ·
You will get a code for Cam or crank or O2 or Map sensor, you should test fuel pressure it might be the fuel pressure regulator. I don't know if a exhaust problem would cause that maybe a clogged cat but I think you would get some kind of DTC for that also. If it is electrical maybe a bad ground you should start testing things like fuel and spark.
 
G
#11 ·
Yes, it must be a sensor of some kind.
If it was a catalytic converter, you could smell it. It smells horrible, like rotten eggs.
But then again, I think sensors should throw codes. How is the fuel you are using there? Any good? I know it sounds stupid, but did you try Premium fuel (92+ octane)
I remember my car was doing the same year ago. I panicked and was already shopping for a new car since I couldn't determine the problem. As last (and not very hopeful) resort, I went to a different gas station (no name brand) and problem never came back. I dunno if it was just a fluke or bad gas, but I quit going to my regular gas station since then.

Here is what you can try. You said you replaced the IAC? Idle Air motor?
You sure? Cuz if it's malfunctioning, this is EXACTLY the condition that you would experience.
Start the car. Rev it up to like 3K RPMS (have a friend do it. You watch the engine compartment. This is of course while car is stopped lol.. :) )
Have him LET GO off throttle abruptly. Idle air motor should kick in after he lets go of the throttle. If the engine drops from it's revolutions and then just shuts down, you got a problem with IAC or MAP. Though I wouldn't exclude the fuel filter either. You are right on the money there, and 3.3 Is even more bulletproof than our 3.5s, so put more time in it. You can also hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the test port and see if the fuel pressure variates too much, rather than moving WITH the throttle position smoothly..
Just thoughts of what I'd do.
 
#12 ·
It can be a bad egr valve. To much exhaust in the intake and the car died. Remove the egr tube block the exhaust flow by making another gasket. Check if the engine run better after.
 
G
#14 ·
EGR (which I wrote a thread on in detail) - yes, it could throw a code, and it's code 32. But I don't think it can go that bad to a point where it stalls the car without that code.
Before my EGR was replaced, I had the car stall out on me once, but MIL came on and it gave me code 32. Car restarted fine, and had no problems idling. Only in severely hot weather it had a tendency to stall (kinda feels like it will stall, but it doesn't)
after I idled it in stop and go traffic for a extended periods of time..
I don't want to say that it's NOT the EGR, bud let's start with the simple stuff first.. right?
 
#15 ·
popimp said:
You will get a code for Cam or crank or O2 or Map sensor, you should test fuel pressure it might be the fuel pressure regulator. I don't know if a exhaust problem would cause that maybe a clogged cat but I think you would get some kind of DTC for that also. If it is electrical maybe a bad ground you should start testing things like fuel and spark.
**UPDATE**

Car started Wednesday morning...the wife drove it about 5 miles to the babysitter, dropped the rugrat off, and tried to restart the car. Car cranked, but would not turn over.

I got there about an hour later and the car started right up. I went and replaced the fuel pump anyway, since I already had the replacement part. The car now cranks, but does not turn over.

I am now completely desperate, I would LOVE a decent mechanic to come take a look at it, since I am not sure it is something stupid.
 
#18 ·
Can't you find a auot parts store that has a fuel pressure gauge you can use for a few min., many often do. Your pressure should run between 40-45psi depending on the throttle position.
Has it ran since you changed the fuel pump? Did you get everything connected up correctly?
I have not had to change my FP yet so don't know if it is possible to cross the in and out fuel lines, but I did that once on the Voyager and it took me a couple of min. to figure out what I had done when I had no fuel.
 
#19 ·
I live in Orlando, FL...

I don't THINK I crossed the lines when I changed the pump.

When I "tested" the pressure (off the fuel rail), I got plety of pressure at first, but now there is non. I guess it is possible I crossed the lines when I changed the pump. Would that cause it to crank, but not turn over?
 
#21 ·
I do all the work on my own cars but when I am stumped by something, I take it to my local Dodge dealer and let them figure it out. I had a bad EGR valve and EGR solenoid that stumped me, car idled like crap and no codes. Dealer figured it out and it only cost me $250 or so. The parts were about $120.
 
#22 ·
I definitely have to get her started though. I would take her to a dealer, but there is NO way I am bringing a car to a dealer o n a tow truck. That is just BEGGING for them to empty your bank account.
 
#23 ·
If you did cross the line you would have no fuel pressure because the pump would work against the fuel pressure reg. so nothing would flow. The line would just pressurize at the max pressure the pump could put out. You might hear the pump sound a little funnly because it would be working on dead head pressure. If the line couplers where different sizes you couldn't reverse them anyway. I don't know since mine has never failed.

Like someone else said you could also check you ASD (Auto shutdown relay) and fuel pump relays. They are in the power distribution box on the left fender. There should be a label under the lid that tells you which is which.
When you turn the key on you should hear both click on. When you crank the engine they should both stay on also unless the PCM does not see a signal from the Crank and Cam sensors.
This is a good way to tell if you crank and cam are working. If they are not the ASD will turn off.
You can also swap them with other relays in the box that are the same.
They don't fail very often though.
 
#25 ·
As far as the Intrepid starting when cold and not when warm, have you checked the battery for a dead cell?

A battery with a dead or weak cell will start a cold engine, but not a warm engine due to the increased friction from turning parts that have expanded due to engine heat.

I had this happen in a 77 Diplomat Coupe one time, years ago.

Good Luck,

dominicfortune00
 
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