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Squealing brakes, any solution?

3K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  froggy81500 
#1 ·
I've heard these cars are notorious for brake squeal, and I've been putting up with it since I've been driving it. 2 years ago, I did the brakes on all 4 corners and had the rotors resurfaced. This did absolutely nothing to correct the problem, there was no change at all in the squeal. I think it comes from the drums, is there any way to fix this?
 
#3 · (Edited)
My Intrepid was the total opposite. It's disc brakes all around. When I bought the car the rear pads were metal to metal already and they didnt squeal or grind at all! When I redid the brakes I replaced all of the pads and rotors and applied the anti-squeal compound at mentioned in Axle's link and have used this same procedure in the past and I get no noise at all. My old Explorer which I actually paid to have the brakes done awhile back ($900) squeals every once and awhile. I used Permatex Disc Brake Quiet:

 
#4 ·
squealing brakes, the fix for Intrepids!!!!!

I do tech servcie for Bendix (training mechanics and answering 35 phone calls a day from techs and DIY's. I would be happy to tell you what is important in serviceing these cars, they do have brake issues, however, satisafctory results acn be had by paying attention to a few things. The number of my techline is 248-362-7069, 8am to 430pm est, after hours, cell number is 248-808-4551
Jay M Buckley
Bendix Answerman
Owner, MotorKingRacing
"Go fast or be last"
 
#5 ·
I have discs in front, drums in back. I replaced my front pads this summer because the old ones were worn out, and I've never had any problem with brake noise. Rotors weren't bad, so I didn't have them resurfaced or anything.
 
#7 ·
blacksunshine67 said:
I do tech servcie for Bendix (training mechanics and answering 35 phone calls a day from techs and DIY's. I would be happy to tell you what is important in serviceing these cars, they do have brake issues, however, satisafctory results acn be had by paying attention to a few things. The number of my techline is 248-362-7069, 8am to 430pm est, after hours, cell number is 248-808-4551
Jay M Buckley
Bendix Answerman
Owner, MotorKingRacing
"Go fast or be last"

LOL...anyone call this? Why cant you just put in a post what to pay attention to?
 
#8 · (Edited)
spfrosty said:
LOL...anyone call this? Why cant you just put in a post what to pay attention to?
You find that funny why?

If all you are concerned about is what to look out for, than doing a search will yeild a number of good threads on the subject, a lot of them either started or added to my me.
 
#9 ·
squealing brakes, the fix for Intrepids!!!!!

Ok, stop whining about being too lazy to call the tech line. I wanted this guy to call because there is alot to explain, here is the cliff notes version-all brake squeal is caused by the pads vibrating. One reason they can vibrate on intrepids is because the anchor bracket area the pad rides on wears very quickly. This is due to the fact that the steel backing plate of the brake pad is harder than the anchor. On many vehicles this would be an easy fix, just replace the anchor bracket with a new one. Chrysler in thier infinite wisdom made the anchor part of the spindle assembly, effectively making for no easy fix. Smart brake technicians weld up the divots in the anchor, then grind them flat. This is a permanent fix, the weld is harder than the steal backing plate of the brake pad. And now a word about "adhesive type disc brake quiet stuff" (insert your favorite brand here) They are made for pads that do not have noise suppressing shims only! In other words-If the back of the pad is bare metal, you should apply several coats of "disc brake quiet"-I like permatex brand to the back of the pad. If there is a noise suppressing shim on the back of the pad-you need to apply a synthetic high temperature brake grease to the inside of the caliper fingers, the lip of the piston and to the anchor slide areas as well as the caliper slide bushings. Use Bendix Ceramlub for best results (We do have dyno data to prove we are superior in the noise reduction area) It is also rated to 2800 degrees for all you autocrossers out there. Silicone based greases run off at around 400-500 degrees, and antisieze, weatherstrip adhesive, RTV silicone ect-have no place in a brake system. Period, now....the tech line is open dudes!!!!!!!!!
 
G
#10 ·
My 1997 LHS 3.5 ALWAYS had brake squeeeeeal. NO matter what I did to it. Althought I never tried your solution Black.. However, I drive my Concorde even harder than the LHS and I NEVER had a problem with brakes squeeeeeealing.
Funny.

Can you explain what it is exactly that they do to it? I am not familiar with "anchor bracket," "divots," "caliper fingers," "piston lips and slide."
Although these seXy terms remind me of my girlfriend.
 
#12 ·
blacksunshine67 said:
If there is a noise suppressing shim on the back of the pad-you need to apply a synthetic high temperature brake grease to the inside of the caliper fingers, the lip of the piston and to the anchor slide areas as well as the caliper slide bushings. Use Bendix Ceramlub for best results (We do have dyno data to prove we are superior in the noise reduction area) It is also rated to 2800 degrees for all you autocrossers out there. Silicone based greases run off at around 400-500 degrees, and antisieze, weatherstrip adhesive, RTV silicone ect-have no place in a brake system. Period, now....the tech line is open dudes!!!!!!!!!
The silicone grease also washes off, especially in this Michigan climate. That Ceramlub will stay on until I take it off myself at my next brake job.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the info. I don't know about doing any welding just to quiet down squeaky brakes. I have heard ceramic pads don't squeal at all, is this true?

The funniest thing is the pads that I got from Canadian Tire are advertised by that dork on tv for having shims on the back to eliminate brake squeal. That guy can't be trusted. :icon_evil
 
#14 ·
blacksunshine67 said:
Ok, stop whining about being too lazy to call the tech line. I wanted this guy to call because there is alot to explain, here is the cliff notes version-all brake squeal is caused by the pads vibrating. One reason they can vibrate on intrepids is because the anchor bracket area the pad rides on wears very quickly. This is due to the fact that the steel backing plate of the brake pad is harder than the anchor. On many vehicles this would be an easy fix, just replace the anchor bracket with a new one. Chrysler in thier infinite wisdom made the anchor part of the spindle assembly, effectively making for no easy fix. Smart brake technicians weld up the divots in the anchor, then grind them flat. This is a permanent fix, the weld is harder than the steal backing plate of the brake pad. And now a word about "adhesive type disc brake quiet stuff" (insert your favorite brand here) They are made for pads that do not have noise suppressing shims only! In other words-If the back of the pad is bare metal, you should apply several coats of "disc brake quiet"-I like permatex brand to the back of the pad. If there is a noise suppressing shim on the back of the pad-you need to apply a synthetic high temperature brake grease to the inside of the caliper fingers, the lip of the piston and to the anchor slide areas as well as the caliper slide bushings. Use Bendix Ceramlub for best results (We do have dyno data to prove we are superior in the noise reduction area) It is also rated to 2800 degrees for all you autocrossers out there. Silicone based greases run off at around 400-500 degrees, and antisieze, weatherstrip adhesive, RTV silicone ect-have no place in a brake system. Period, now....the tech line is open dudes!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the cliff notes Black, now that validates your previous post. I wasn't "whining" or being too lazy, but I dont trust anything that says "call, we'll tell ya how..." then you get on the phone to hear some BS sales pitch ....yadda yadda...such as n0c7's post asking about charges, that was my point. Thanks!
 
#15 ·
you guys are just too funny

There is no charge to call the Bendix Answerman, I am giving you the direct line in FREE!!!, and I am a ASE certifed master technician with over 30 years experience in high performance vehices, 15 years in Bendix engineering, I am not a sales man, dont really care about selling you Bendix, will happily tell what other brands are junk, be happy to take you to school about what"ceramic" pads are and are not. I give technical advice, period. And, If you do not understand the terms I am using, you should get educated BEFORE working on your car. If I can figure out how to post some pictures on here, I will do a show and tell about what the achor bracket is, were the divots form, how to fix. I even gave out my cell number in case you want to call on the weekend when you hae a wheel off your car.
 
#16 ·
Free samples of Bendix Ceramlub

One more thing, anyone who does call the tech line for advice on how to quiet these cars down...I will send you a free sample of our grease......YES,, FREE, we have that much confidence in it, and I have that much passion for helping people solve brake issues with science, not myths and old wives tales
 
#17 ·
Uber Dubber said:
Thanks for all the info. I don't know about doing any welding just to quiet down squeaky brakes. I have heard ceramic pads don't squeal at all, is this true?

The funniest thing is the pads that I got from Canadian Tire are advertised by that dork on tv for having shims on the back to eliminate brake squeal. That guy can't be trusted. :icon_evil
Any type of pad can squeal, and any type of pad can be quiet.

Shims (the type that are attached on the back of the brake pad) have been proven to reduce noise, given that everything else is equal. But there are many factors that can contribute to noise such as the friction material used, design of the brake pad, condition of the caliper/bracket, the rotor used, the rotor condition.

Also, all shims aren't created equal. There are many types of shims with different construction (from stainless steel to rubber to a multiple layer of different materials).

And people still wonder why do so much testing...
 
G
#18 ·
I just read on another thread that our rotors are supposed to last about 20-30K miles.
Which prompts me to ask, why is it that I have gone thru 3 brake jobs already (my fourth set) and about 60K miles or so and my rotors are not warped, I am not feeling any pedal pulse, they don't seem rusty or anything, they don't squeel or make any noise, and they are not cracked or worn?
I mean, I drive the car pretty hard and need brakes every 12-15K Miles or so...
I tried replacing the rotors the first time I did the brake job, they wouldn't come off easy. So I just left it on there, they were ok anyhow.. Second time same thing, and last time (about 1K miles ago) I didn't even attempt to take them off, but I had them with me just in case, and they still looked good...
And it's very weird, cuz on my Jeep and my LHS (RIP) I remember I needed new rotors every time I did a brake job.
Interesting...
 
#19 ·
First, how can anyone assign a specific mileage at which rotors, or brakes for that matter, will last? It all depends on driving. Stop-n-go, highway, whatever. I've put 28,000 miles on my car in 19 months and I still don't need brakes. I checked them 3 weeks ago when I rotated the tires. But I do most of my driving on the highway, where the brakes don't get used very much. So to anyone who thinks there is some mileage set in stone that they will need brakes, there isn't. Now, the brakes should be inspected periodically to look for wear, like when rotating tires, is a perfect time. So figure every 6 months is a pretty good interval. Consider this: I replaced the rear shoes on the truck I used to have shortly after buying it and when I traded it, I was getting ready to replace them again, after 46,000 miles of driving. The rears lasted me almost 4 years!

And somebody above was saying not to use anti-seize on the brakes. Why, I've been using it for years and haven't had a problem. Use it to grease the slides, and when I had a vehicle with drums, lube the backing plate where the shoes sat and lube the adjusters.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3287&mfrcode=PTX&mfrpartnumber=80078

I've been using this stuff, which says up 1600 degrees F.
 
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