My car won't start, it was running fine, then yesterday it took a little more turning over than normal to start it. Today I drive it a bit, and now it won't start at all. I think it may not be getting fire because I can smell a little bit of gas behind the car after I try to start it. I don't know much about American cars, as I'm a German car person, the 'trep actually is my wife's. Isn't there a scanner I can plug into the car and it will tell me what is wrong?
Also, I seem to remember I could hear the fuel pump run when I turn the ignition on, am I just imagining this, or should I be able to hear the pump run for a second when I turn the key on. I know my Volkswagen does this.
Spark, fuel pressure? Good place to start diagnosing things. You can hook up a DRB scanner to it or do the key thing but that will only tell you why your check engine light is on.
My car won't start, it was running fine, then yesterday it took a little more turning over than normal to start it. Today I drive it a bit, and now it won't start at all. I think it may not be getting fire because I can smell a little bit of gas behind the car after I try to start it. I don't know much about American cars, as I'm a German car person, the 'trep actually is my wife's. Isn't there a scanner I can plug into the car and it will tell me what is wrong?
Also, I seem to remember I could hear the fuel pump run when I turn the ignition on, am I just imagining this, or should I be able to hear the pump run for a second when I turn the key on. I know my Volkswagen does this.
getting the codes by doing the key dance could very well point you in the right direction toward solving your dilema. A fancy scanner is not always needed to solve problems. Even if your CEL is not lit. Normaly if you turn the key to run position the fuel pump will only energize for one to two seconds, if your not cranking the starter, the PCM will de-energize the fuel pump relay and the ASD (auto shut down relay) The ASD supplies power to the ignition coils and the fuel injectors. The PCM must recieve signals from the crank position sensor and cam position sensor to keep the ASD and fuel pump relays energized. So do the key dance and post back with your codes.
In answer to your original question. Yes when you first turn on the key you should hear the fuel pump pressure up the system and then drop after about 2-3 seconds. If your not hearing that you "might" have a pump problem or something else. First thing I do when I have a problem is check the fuel pressure.
With or without crank and cam sensor the ASD shuts off if the engine is not being started if you are not hearing the fuel pump pressurize then I would say bad fuel pump. Will the car turn over, is the check engine light flashing, is the check engine light even on?
The engine is turning over and I didn't notice any lights flashing. I'm definitely not hearing the pump run, I will check for fuel pressure tomorrow. How do I do this key dance?
The engine is turning over and I didn't notice any lights flashing. I'm definitely not hearing the pump run, I will check for fuel pressure tomorrow. How do I do this key dance?
Okay, I did the key test and only got a "55". I swapped the fuel pump relay with the wiper relay and still no dice. I've been maintaining this car for 5 years and haven't replaced the fuel filter once, so it's probably the pump, although the car only has 140K kilometers.
Where is the pump on these cars? Is it a single pump system? Also, I didn't see a tap to test the pressure.
IIRC there is an access panel underneath the carpeting in the trunk, in front of the spare tire well. You can get to the filter from there. I'm not sure where the pump itself is located though.
I think you can get to the fuel pump by dropping the gas tank from inside the trunk and the tap to check for fuel pressure is located on the driver side of the fuel rail near the fuel pressure regulator.
Well I'm going with an OE pump alright, from a wrecking yard. :wink:
The cheapest I could find a new one for was $315 Canadian. I found a used one for $95. I know it's a gamble, but my other car needs stuff too. It's weird the car was running perfectly and all of a sudden *poof*, it was dead. It must have just seized up.
I replaced the pump with the junkyard pump and it fired right up. Thanks for all the help, this is a helpful forum.
I think the reason for the pump failure may be from driving too close too empty, from the look of the design, it looks like when the tank gets low, the pump is not fully submerged in fuel, and maybe it heats up? I'm not going to let it get below 1/4 tank anymore.
Yes that is very true. In most tanks the return fuel runs over the pump to keep them cool. The fuel goes up thru the engine picks up heat and returns to the tank over and over again. The lower the tank the faster the gas heats up. And the less cooling the pump gets and better the chance at vapor lock.
If you ever have trouble with vapor lock in the summer one quick fix is to add fuel to the tank.
I also own a Fiero. They only have a 10 gallon tank to begin with. All the owners learn really quick to keep the tanks 1/4 or above or you will find yourself replacing the pump.
You learned a fact that many people don't know. Dad always said to keep your tank half full. Of course in the old days that was for safty factor, turns out in todays cars it has another reason.
Also, I seem to remember I could hear the fuel pump run when I turn the ignition on, am I just imagining this, or should I be able to hear the pump run for a second when I turn the key on. I know my Volkswagen does this.[/with a gas pressure guage check fuel pressure at front fuel rail of motor, if pressure is there good. check for codes with autotap that is what i use. if there is no spark it could be either a coil or spark trigger . tests for both can be found in books. hope this will help QUOTE]
Yes that was answered back at the beginning of this thread.
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