Hello, all. Got a question about flushing a A606 on my new 94 ES 3.5L w/ 107,000 miles. I have been getting alot of info. on these Intrepids from this forum. I just bought a 94 ES Loaded in very good condition 2wks ago and the trans had a shudder at around 35-40mph. From my experience with my 94 Caravan I assumed it was the torque converter lock up. So I learned from this forum and other sites that these 4 speeds need a Mopar fluid. I suspect Dexron is in the trans so I just completed a filter change and flush with Mopar ATF+4 (payed $28 a gal. and $6 a qt.) I used 10-11 quarts and I hope it all stayed in the trasmission. My question is do you need to put the trans in drive while flushing to get all the fluid out? Theres not alot of time to change gears while the life blood of you transmission is pumping into a jug. Did I get all of the fluid out of the converter? Or did the flush bypas the converter and did I waste 4 qts. of new ATF+4? I dissconnected the return line to the trans at the lower radiator fitting and plumbed a hose from the rad. to a bottle, started her up and fluid came out. Did I just suck the fluid from the pan or pump out of the converter? The transmission shifts fine now (no shudder) I can feel the lockup it's like night and day. The car is going to the dealer for recall issues (the previous owner didn't take care of them) tues. I think a reflash is in the future for the TCM. Dealer says $100. Sorry if I didn't fit in this Forum but keep up the good work. These vehicles heve there problems but after driving one there worth the extea effort to keep them on the road.
Always wanted one of these cab forward Dodges, Next one is going to be a Charger SRT-8
Soon... Ok Maybe just a R/T lol :beerchug:
my understanding is that you do this in neutral (thats what i did). however, if the fluid pumped out the radiator return line and you pumped through 11 qts, tou should be good to go, as it seems to pump through converter in any gear-as i understand the plumbing it goes through the converter as normal pathe when the car is on whether in drive or not.
run the car a few minutes and check the level. unless it is extremely low don't add more-go for a good ride cycling through all gears until at operating temp and then check again and then add as needed to bring to proper level. don't want under or over filled. seems you did just fine-congrats.
how does it drive? if you are gonna drop the $100 at the dealer make sure he does the upgrade, and that this resets the tcm and have it set for a "quick learn", and get your CVI's if he will include it in the cost. all of this will take only a few minutes with the DRB tool that they use and you will feel ripped off for the time, but you got no choice. i would call some other dealers for diff price quote. if you happen by chance to have bought at a dealer i would be negotiating to have this done free.
Thanks for the responce. I left the tranny in drive during the flush by the way. After I finished the flush put the hose back on the cooler and added what fluid I had left the remains of the 10 qts. just made it to the add mark on the dip stick after cycling thru the gears. Then drove it around the hood to warn it up and checked it again. Fluid was at the add mark still. I took a 20 mile drive to road test shift performance to the dealer to by 2 more qts. of ATF+4. Would you believe it's 60 cents cheaper by the quart. What the @%$# , I asked for 8 quarts the parts guy gave me to gallons. Added the additional fluid to get the level up drove some more checked it again and put it in the garage for the night. Next morning took it to work, checked it at work and was down to the add mark again. I figured the air must of bled from the system since there was no leaks. Topped it off again and all is well.
:bouncgrin
I pay $11 a gallon ($2.75 a qt) at my Dodge dealer in VA for the ATF+4. I bring my own jugs and he fills them up. The new sealed gallon jugs are $15 each. Your dealer is really ripping you off for the price of that ATF+4.
I thought so to but I didn't realy want to take the time to find a better price, I wanted the Dexron out ASP. I'd say the Dexron was in there for maybe 10,000 miles max, the pan gasket wasn't that old. The magnet wasn't that boogered up with metalalic dirt. No doubt it would of been cleaner if the proper fluid was in there... HAPPY NEW YEARS BOYZ -N-GIRLS! :fun_48:
When you took the stick out to check the fluid was there any bubbles or metal debris? If not I would say you did a damn fine job of changing the transmission fluid. I would drive the car to normal operating temp then check your trans fluid and if it says add then add some, run through all the gears then recheck until the dipstick says it is at warm.
Fluid was nice N clean. Butt in the last few days I've got a 66 code, but tranny shift fine could this be a BCM comunication prob.? The remote start is alittle buggy but everything else seems to work fine. Could this be a grounding problem? :anon:
"O" but wait, Tranny went into "Limp mode" the other night 1/05/06 after a cold sitting outside in maybe 32F temp for 7+ hours. I drove it for maybe 1/2 mile then pulled over shut down and restart. From there shifted fine and hasn't done it since. I think I'm going to be checking my connections from and to the PCM it might be a loose conector. Engine is not original, it came from a donor 95 LHS so it was reconnected to wiring. If not maybe input sensor. I'll just have to watch and check engine light codes. Maybe have dealer do a diagnostic test.
Make sure you do not have a plastic 2/4 accumulator piston in the valve body. Early model 42LE trannys in Gen I's came with a plastic piston that can cause a limp in condition. I replaced all the accumulator pistons in m,y 95 Concorde with Sonnax accumulator pistons and sleeves. DC issued a TSB on this issue.
I'll remember that if it continues, this spring when it's warmer is when I'll drop the valvebody, alota screws on this tranny. No doubt I can do it, even rebuild one of these if I had to. But I'd rather do a R&R with a good Tranny if it comes down to it. Wish I had a lift, I'd take up wrenchin full time. Thanks for all the advice. :fun_84:
For next time. Neutral or drive is not neccessary to pump fluid. It pumps in park too.
Older Mopars like 70's 727's and 904 would not pump in park.
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