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: Power wire gague question


DjPiLL
06-10-2002, 11:22 PM
Ok... I did some investigating on my Bazooka setup. The place I took it to ran 10 gague power wire. Im not crazy about that, they should have ran 8 or lower... but for a Bazooka sub... there really isnt any practical need.

Question: With this 10 gague wire ran (I think its Lightning Audio brand).... how many components can I "realistically" run off this. (Assuming the bazooka sub comes out). Can I run one amp? two? What if I run the wire to a cap... is it the same? Or can I run more?

Lemme know. Thx.

blkbute
06-10-2002, 11:49 PM
for the bazooka its more then enough, I have a fosgate 500 amp, it puts out 710 watts, the biggest it will accept is 8 gauge. they should have ran 8 gauge in my opinion for you thats if the bazooka will accept wire that big, Im sure it does though. too large of wire for too little power draw is not good, power cap, keep the same wire gauge, and you will not need a cap for the bazooka. but if you looking at upgrading, go to 4gauge if you can, but you need to get what best suits your system. like for me 8 is as big as I can go.

DjPiLL
06-10-2002, 11:56 PM
Ok... well can your fosgate amp be ran with 10gague wire? Cause my more important question was how many REAL amps can I run off 10 gague. I would only do this if I replace the Bazooka.

Warlord187
06-10-2002, 11:59 PM
Woo hoo!!! :)

http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/wiregauge.htm

DjPiLL
06-11-2002, 12:18 AM
Pretty good article... but I have a question:

Lets take the Fosgate 750x amp as an example. It runs 90W RMS x 4 channels. Lets do their math.

1. Find out Total RMS (answer: 360)
2. Summerize total RMS (answer: still 360)
3. Multiply total RMSx2 (answer: 720)
4. Divide total RMS by 13 (55.3)

Cable will be 3 meters.... so they are saying I need 4Gague wire to run this amp?

Is this truly the case?

Warlord187
06-11-2002, 12:40 AM
Originally posted by DjPiLL
Pretty good article... but I have a question:

Lets take the Fosgate 750x amp as an example. It runs 90W RMS x 4 channels. Lets do their math.

1. Find out Total RMS (answer: 360)
2. Summerize total RMS (answer: still 360)
3. Multiply total RMSx2 (answer: 720)
4. Divide total RMS by 13 (55.3)

Cable will be 3 meters.... so they are saying I need 4Gague wire to run this amp?

Is this truly the case?

Ideally. But you could get away with using 8 guage.

blkbute
06-11-2002, 12:50 AM
well on my amp, you require 8. 10 might run something like 200 watts, I would go with a 8 minimum, 4 gauge is best.

DjPiLL
06-11-2002, 01:47 AM
Ok thats all I really needed to know. So if i ever wanted to hook up a real amp back there.... and disconnect the sub... ill just run a new 4 gague wire... and leave the 10gague one for minor crap like my power antenna, XM radio tuner or CD changer if i get those, etc etc.

blkbute
06-11-2002, 08:25 AM
yes, that would be a good idea, beucase you will be able torun lotts of small things off that 10 gauge wire,

EvilDeadFan
06-11-2002, 11:33 AM
I agree, I have a 600 watt kenwood back in my trunk, until i can afford something else (yes futureshop will let me just pay the difference for the new one) So I had them run 4 guage.

dbaudiopro
06-11-2002, 11:50 AM
Looks like everyone has a little different way of determining wire gauge. I've seen about 10 tables and they are all different. Usually there is a recommendation in the amplifier manual regarding wire size. Using 4AWG wire will leave you plenty of room for expansion and is the most typical size to run for a basic multi-amp system...

dbaudiopro
06-11-2002, 11:53 AM
Originally posted by blkbute
too large of wire for too little power draw is not good
I have no idea where this idea came from but there is no truth to it. You could run 1/0AWG wire for a 50W amp if you wanted to. There would be absolutely no negative effect of doin this. Well, other than the cost and pain in the ass of hiding it under the carpet... :)

gise1
06-11-2002, 01:21 PM
wouldn't the resistence of the 1/0 awg wire be too great for the 50w amp?

dbaudiopro
06-11-2002, 01:36 PM
Originally posted by gise1
wouldn't the resistence of the 1/0 awg wire be too great for the 50w amp?
WHAT??? That makes absolutely no sense what so ever. The larger the wire the less resistance there is to the current flow...

IntrepidLHS
06-11-2002, 06:01 PM
I wouldnt use ten guage wire to run more than 400 watts RMS and thats a very generous number. I had 8 guage running to my 600 RMS amp, and it wasnt enough, I had to use 4 Guage.

gise1
06-12-2002, 12:48 AM
The RMS power doesn't totaly mean what size wire to use. Look below: http://www.lcrcomputer.com/jason/Chart.jpg

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 09:53 AM
Originally posted by gise1
The RMS power doesn't totaly mean what size wire to use.
This is true. RMS is NOT the total amount of power the amplifier is generating. It's the root mean square of the power delivered to the outputs. The earlier post multiplies the RMS rating by 2 which is being generous to the RMS rating depending on the amplifier technology (Class A, A/B, D, etc.). Wire gauge is based on current consumption, so the best idea is to look in the amplifier user's manual. They typically will give current consuption ratings and usually wire gauge recommendations. It does get trickier when you have multiple amplifiers and you have to sum them up, but as has been shown there are many tables out there to look at to help choose a wire gauge based on current consumption. And it's ALWAYS better to have too large of a wire than too small of a wire...

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 10:35 AM
What kind of power cable would I need to run and what Fraud cap do I need to power these two amps...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1359333199

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1359335323

TehKing
06-12-2002, 10:59 AM
You'd be fine with 4 gauge (perhaps 2 to be on the safe side) with 1 farad of capitance.

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 11:27 AM
OK each amp is recommending a 60A fuse. Typically you fuse at 2x the nominal draw so your talking about 60A nominal draw for both amps. Depending on length, that puts you easilly in the 4AWG range. But like LHSer said 2AWG would put you on the really safe side. You don't "need" a cap, but a 1 farad would be sufficient...

Warlord187
06-12-2002, 02:33 PM
Originally posted by DjPiLL
What kind of power cable would I need to run and what Fraud cap do I need to power these two amps...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1359333199

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1359335323

Assuming those power specs are in RMS and not peak, damn that is some serious wattage!!!

As a general rule, for every 250 watts RMS you have, you will want a 1/4 farad of capacitance. The top amp says 750x1, the bottom says 175x4, for a grand total of 1450. I would say a 1 farad cap would do, but if I were you I would move up to a 1.5 farad cap.

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 02:39 PM
Ideally... I think this is what I am going to get if I do an overhaul. I have some extra cash I can tap into to pay for these. $700 for those two amps total is not a bad deal.

But of course it all depends on what sub I go with.

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-eVBII1uITP8/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=10&g=510&I=575RBP2122
Anyone here heard what that RF bandpass sounds like? Its a dual 12" sub. 200-800W RMS. 1600peak.

Crutchfield wants $549 for it which is a little pricey. But if it sounds killer... id rather get that than get something lower end and then end up upgrading. I saw one place that was selling it for $410 but they are not a RF auth. dealer. Any issues with that? I know there are issues... but is it worth saving $150buks on?

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 03:12 PM
Originally posted by Warlord187


Assuming those power specs are in RMS and not peak, damn that is some serious wattage!!!

As a general rule, for every 250 watts RMS you have, you will want a 1/4 farad of capacitance. The top amp says 750x1, the bottom says 175x4, for a grand total of 1450. I would say a 1 farad cap would do, but if I were you I would move up to a 1.5 farad cap.
Those are numbers from Rockford Fosgate, but the 700X doesn't tell the real story. Directly from Rockford Fosgate:

700X (RMS at 14.4v):
87.5Wx4 at 4 ohm
175Wx4 at 2 ohm
350Wx2 at 4 ohm (bridged)

750S (RMS at 14.4v):
187.5Wx2 at 4 ohm
375Wx2 at 2 ohm
750Wx1 at 4 ohm (bridged)

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 03:14 PM
Well thats the idea. The 700x would power the 6x9s and 6.5 components... and the 750s would power a kickass sub. I think thats adequate power. ;)

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 03:42 PM
Originally posted by DjPiLL
Well thats the idea. The 700x would power the 6x9s and 6.5 components... and the 750s would power a kickass sub. I think thats adequate power. ;)
87.5W is pretty low power for a good 6.5" component set. What kind of components are they? Just for reference I'm planning to run 300W RMS to mine...

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 03:47 PM
The components are Infinity 60.5s that I was looking at. 90W RMS and 270W peak.

The 6x9s are the 693.5i which are 125WRMS I believe.

Is the 700X too weak of an amp? Would two amps (three total) be a better setup. What should I look at as far as RMS goes for the amps?

I wouldnt want to run more than 4 gague wire.... three amps would probably be pushing it.

Warlord187
06-12-2002, 03:58 PM
Why in the hell do you want a bandpass box!??? Do you like boomy bass in a very limited frequency range? :)

Let me tell you what I would do. I would run three amps. One amp for the subs, one amp for the front stage mids & highs, and one amp for the rear stage mids & highs. For the front stage I would go with no less than 100 watts RMS. For the rear stage, I would go with about HALF as much power as the front stage. The reason being (based somewhat on personal preference) is that you want the front stage to be more prevalent than the rear stage. You don't want the rear stage over powering your front stage.

:)

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 04:01 PM
I guess half the reason is the fact that I like the look of bandpass. And when you say limited frequency range... what are you reffering to. Its not like im going to have the seats down when im driving ( i cant stand that). I just want a very nice "thumping" sound since most of the music i listen to is either hiphop or house.

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 04:17 PM
I'm not a fan of Infiity but looking at their specs, that amp probably will be sufficient. They must be pretty efficient speakers. Rockford is also well known for under-rating their amps. You will probably get more than what's published out of it.

It never hurts to over-power speakers to a reasonable point (the wire used for the voice coil will limit you). You are much more likely to blow an underpowered speaker than an overpowered one. Reason being, with an underpowered system you have no headroom, and the higher your volume goes the less headroom you have. So as you get to higher volumes your nominal signal is closer to the limits and as the dynamics in your music peak and dip they get clipped. A clipped signal is what causes speaker damage. With an overpowered system you have much more headroom. You'll find that you won't be turning your volume up as far and the nominal signal will be further away from the limits. Thus allowing the dynamics in your music to peak and dip without clipping. In an ideal system you would never need to turn your volume past 50% to have the system as loud as you ever want to make it. For any system you never want to exceed 75% volume. Past 75% is when most head units will begin to clip, no matter how good it is...

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 04:21 PM
I hear what you are saying.... but I guess with this setup I have a few options. 85W RMS per speaker inside should be more than sufficient.

However, if I want to really have headroom to power the speakers... i can always buy a third 700x. ;) Ill bridge both 700X amps and that would be 350WRMS per speaker if I have it cranked all the way on the amp (which I doubt I would do in that situation anyways - maybe 75% cranked).


Would I be able to keep the 4 gague wire with two 700x and a 750s?

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 04:22 PM
Bandpass is just that. Essentially the box design will work as another crossover. Depending on how the box is tuned it will accentuate a certain band of frequencies and attenuate others. Bandpass boxes are typically much boomier than a ported or sealed encloser. If you are a big hip-hop or rap kind of person you may like it. Go to a local shop they should be able to demo one for you. Granted it will sound different in your car, but you can get an idea of how differently each type of box sounds...

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 04:24 PM
But wouldnt I get some element of bass from the speakers inside the cabin... that would make up for those lowtomid frequencies?

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 04:24 PM
Originally posted by DjPiLL
I hear what you are saying.... but I guess with this setup I have a few options. 85W RMS per speaker inside should be more than sufficient.

However, if I want to really have headroom to power the speakers... i can always buy a third 700x. ;) Ill bridge both 700X amps and that would be 350WRMS per speaker if I have it cranked all the way on the amp (which I doubt I would do in that situation anyways - maybe 75% cranked).


Would I be able to keep the 4 gague wire with two 700x and a 750s?
I definitely would not want 350W RMS going into those Inifinitys. Maybe 150W-175W max RMS...

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 04:25 PM
Originally posted by dbaudiopro

I definitely would not want 350W RMS going into those Inifinitys. Maybe 150W-175W max RMS...

Would turning the gain halfway on the AMP accomplish that?

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 04:27 PM
Originally posted by DjPiLL
But wouldnt I get some element of bass from the speakers inside the cabin... that would make up for those lowtomid frequencies?
It depends on how the box is designed what frequencies you would attenuate or accentuate. Don't depend on your 6.5's to make up for frequencies your sub should be producing. Infinity specs them at 45Hz, however, I would bet they have a pretty steep rolloff around 80-100Hz...

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 04:30 PM
Originally posted by DjPiLL


Would turning the gain halfway on the AMP accomplish that?
OK this is more like chat goin on here. :D

Gain should never be used as a volume or power control. All gains should be matched to the signal source output...

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 04:31 PM
So if i do end up with a seriously powerful amp for those kappas.... as long as I dont seriously crank the volume... they should be fine... no?

Warlord187
06-12-2002, 04:38 PM
In my '91 Sundance I had Blaupunkt 5.25" up front. The speakers were rated at 45W RMS, but I was pushing 75W RMS to them. I did blow one of the speakers after a while, but who knows if that really had anything to do with overpowering them.


How to set gain levels. Turn gain all the way down. Start to turn volume up until you start to hear distortion. Once hearing distortion, back the volume down a tad. Now, leave it at that volume. Go to the amp and start turning the gain level up until you start to hear distortion. Once you hear distortion, back the gain down a tad.


So yes, gain should NEVER be used as a "volume control".

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 04:40 PM
Originally posted by Warlord187
So yes, gain should NEVER be used as a "volume control".

Maybe you guys misunderstood me.

What I was saying was.... if I have a super powerful amp 350W rms per channel.... and the infinities only run 90-100W RMS.

I was saying that wouldn't turning the gain on the amp halfway and LEAVING it that way help in not overpowering them? Any "volume" adjustments get done at the headunit... no doubt.

Warlord187
06-12-2002, 04:41 PM
Originally posted by DjPiLL
So if i do end up with a seriously powerful amp for those kappas.... as long as I dont seriously crank the volume... they should be fine... no?

True (kinda), but if you run 350W RMS to each Kappa, in order not to blow the speakers, you will have to keep the volume pretty low. The downside is the volume controls ALL of your system. If you keep the volume down low as to not blow the mids/highs, you won't hear your subs very well.

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 04:41 PM
Originally posted by DjPiLL
So if i do end up with a seriously powerful amp for those kappas.... as long as I dont seriously crank the volume... they should be fine... no?
You want to be reasonable with your power. Like I said before, I'd stick with something in the range of 150-175W. Something like the 800.4 would work nicely. Or you could do two 2-channel amps. Like Warlord said you really don't want your rears to be very dominant. They are there simply for fill or rear passengers. You want all your sound coming from up front. I consider it this way, when I go to a concert how do you sit? You sit facing the stage right? You wouldn't sit with your back to the stage, so why have your sound coming from behind you?

Also, I don't know how much you're planning on spending for those Infinitys, but you may want to do some shopping for Diamond Audio. The MSRP on the Infinity page seems a little high for those and the Diamonds will sound much better IMHO...

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 04:44 PM
What about power wire? Would four gague wire be sufficient to power three amps? Two 700x and one 750s? If it works for those three, if i go with two smaller 175W amps then that should definitely be fine.

Warlord187
06-12-2002, 04:46 PM
Originally posted by dbaudiopro

Also, I don't know how much you're planning on spending for those Infinitys, but you may want to do some shopping for Diamond Audio. The MSRP on the Infinity page seems a little high for those and the Diamonds will sound much better IMHO...

Oh heck yes. Diamond audio makes killer speakers. MB Quart also makes sweet stuff.

Hey, if you have the change, why not go with some Focals? :)

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 04:47 PM
On ebay u can get the Kappas in the $150 range.

Warlord187
06-12-2002, 04:49 PM
Originally posted by DjPiLL
What about power wire? Would four gague wire be sufficient to power three amps? Two 700x and one 750s? If it works for those three, if i go with two smaller 175W amps then that should definitely be fine.

Power guage, may as well go with 0 AWG from battery to distribution box, and than you could go with 2 AWG or maybe even 4 AWG from the distribution box to the amps.

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 04:53 PM
Originally posted by Warlord187


Oh heck yes. Diamond audio makes killer speakers. MB Quart also makes sweet stuff.

Hey, if you have the change, why not go with some Focals? :)
Diamond is typically cheaper than either of those though. I've seen Diamond 6.5" components in the $350 range which is the same as the Infinity (MSRP $349.95)...

Warlord187
06-12-2002, 04:54 PM
Originally posted by dbaudiopro

Diamond is typically cheaper than either of those though. I've seen Diamond 6.5" components in the $350 range which is the same as the Infinity (MSRP $349.95)...

I would hope the Diamonds are cheaper than Focals! :D

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 05:00 PM
Whats the deal with these focals? Are they good? Any links?

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 05:02 PM
Originally posted by Warlord187


Power guage, may as well go with 0 AWG from battery to distribution box, and than you could go with 2 AWG or maybe even 4 AWG from the distribution box to the amps.
You should easilly be in the 2AWG range from the amp to the distribution block and then 8AWG or 4AWG from it to the amps...

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 05:03 PM
Originally posted by dbaudiopro

You should easilly be in the 2AWG range from the amp to the distribution block and then 8AWG or 4AWG from it to the amps...

You mean i should go 2AWG from battery to dist. block right?

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 05:03 PM
Originally posted by Warlord187


I would hope the Diamonds are cheaper than Focals! :D
Focal and Diamond aren't even in the same league. I have Dynaudio, which is good competition for them, but Diamond is one of the best "bang for the buck" speakers I've listened to...

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 05:04 PM
Originally posted by DjPiLL


You mean i should go 2AWG from battery to dist. block right?
Yes I meant battery to distribution block.

I'm having trouble keeping up with two people. My fingers are starting to cramp... :crazy: :crazy: :crazy:

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 05:05 PM
Originally posted by DjPiLL
Whats the deal with these focals? Are they good? Any links?
Focals are awsome, but be prepared to drop some serious cash. If you are on more of a budget I would consider the Diamonds...

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 05:27 PM
Well what is the better sounding speaker.... (price doesnt matter)....

Diamond Audio or Infinity Kappa

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 05:36 PM
Originally posted by DjPiLL
Well what is the better sounding speaker.... (price doesnt matter)....

Diamond Audio or Infinity Kappa
Between those two IMHO, Diamond Audio. If price doesn't matter at all, you could look at Focal or Dynaudio...

http://www.diamondaudio.com/
http://www.focal.tm.fr/fr/car/index.htm
http://www.dynaudiousa.com/products/car/car1.htm

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 05:39 PM
It seems like Diamond Audio has good components for the fronts... but they only make one 6x9 speaker... the M391i. And that speaker isnt very expensive either. The components are a little pricey though. :-)

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 05:48 PM
Originally posted by DjPiLL
It seems like Diamond Audio has good components for the fronts... but they only make one 6x9 speaker... the M391i. And that speaker isnt very expensive either. The components are a little pricey though. :-)
If you think the Diamonds are expensive don't even look at the Focal or Dynaudio. :) What are you finding for prices???

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 05:51 PM
Well ive been looking on ebay as a reference.....

This is what i find strange....

You can get an Infinity 60.5cs for about $160 and a 693.5i for $150.

In Diamond... you can get the components for about $300.... and the 6x9 (the only 6x9 they seem to make) for about $110.

Why is there such a difference in price between the diamonds when the infinitys are about the same.

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 05:53 PM
I guess the point i am trying to make is I dont mind spending $450 or so for a set of cabin speakers (components and rears).

Im just curious as to why the Infinities are so close in price, and the diamonds have a such a gap. Makes me believe that maybe the diamond components are better than infinity, but the infinity 6x9s are better than diamond.

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 05:56 PM
Originally posted by DjPiLL
Well ive been looking on ebay as a reference.....

This is what i find strange....

You can get an Infinity 60.5cs for about $160 and a 693.5i for $150.

In Diamond... you can get the components for about $300.... and the 6x9 (the only 6x9 they seem to make) for about $110.

Why is there such a difference in price between the diamonds when the infinitys are about the same.
My guess would be popularity. They probably only make one 6x9 because not many people who buy Diamond Audio buy 6x9's. It's been proven that an oval speaker cone does not provide the sound quality that a symetrical cone does. I would guess that's what makes them cheap on Ebay as well. The components are good and $300 for what you are getting is not bad (again, that's my opinion)... :)

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 05:59 PM
Are there any issues with mixing and matching speaker brands? Diamonds in the front and Infinities in the Back?

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 06:06 PM
Originally posted by DjPiLL
I guess the point i am trying to make is I dont mind spending $450 or so for a set of cabin speakers (components and rears).

Im just curious as to why the Infinities are so close in price, and the diamonds have a such a gap. Makes me believe that maybe the diamond components are better than infinity, but the infinity 6x9s are better than diamond.
A cool feature that I forgot to mention is if you move up to the M6 series the crossovers have a special "RAF" output. The RAF or rear accoustic fill allows you to connect rear fill speakers to your system without adding another amplifier. This would allow you to bridge the 700X to the fronts for more power, and still allow you to have your rear 6x9's for rear fill.

Can't believe I forgot this feature...:crazy:

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 06:09 PM
Originally posted by DjPiLL
Are there any issues with mixing and matching speaker brands? Diamonds in the front and Infinities in the Back?
There is nothing wrong with doing this. True audiophiles will argue that they won't be voice and timbre matched and things won't sound right. But you have to be an obsessively anal listener to notice... :alien:

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 06:19 PM
So on the 700x.... if I bridge each channel thats 350W RMS going to each front speaker. How does this power get distributed to the rear speakers? Does 175W go to the front and 175W go to the rear?

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 06:47 PM
I did some more reading regaring this and it looks like that you still need to run separate power to the rear speakers. It wont be like you are splitting your bridged power between the two speakers. I dunno correct me if im wrong.

dbaudiopro
06-12-2002, 08:30 PM
Originally posted by DjPiLL
I did some more reading regaring this and it looks like that you still need to run separate power to the rear speakers. It wont be like you are splitting your bridged power between the two speakers. I dunno correct me if im wrong.
Nope you don't have to run separate wires. I actually have a friend here with the Diamond Audios set up this way. It takes one pair in from the amplifier, then send one pair out to the mid drivers, one pair out to the tweeters and one pair out to the rear fill. See:

http://www.diamondaudio.com/Files/products/M6%5Fmids%5Frev1%2EPDF%5F

There is no even distribution of power. The rears are automatically reduced by 10dB though, so they will be quieter than the fronts. The proportion will be the same all the way through the volume scale.

This is actually a really cool option. Xtant does a similar thing with their amps. They have modules that allow you to run a set of passive speakers for rear fill...

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 10:30 PM
It sounds pretty intriguing... but i dunno.

Actually I was doing alot of thinking about upgrading and what I should do next.

I think the next step would be to overhaul all my inside speakers. Im probably just gonna go with the Infinity Kappas. People that own them seem to like them alot, and they are known for giving a nice crisp sound, which is what im looking for. Im just going to power them using the 700X amp.

So what ill probably do next is buy the Infinity 60.5cs and 693.5i. Ill pick up the RF 700X amp. I *may* or may not pick up the Pioneer headunit. The one I want is $550 buks easy (DEH-P9400MP). I might pass on that for now and just use the high level inputs that I have running to the trunk for the bazooka for now. I'll have to see... ill probably just say fuckit and get the headunit anyways since ill get it from the same place ill get the kappa's from. (www.ikesound.com). Plus then I can run all RCA jacks instead of using high level inputs. Ill also run 4 gague wire to the trunk for the amp.

Lemme see how this XM radio install goes on Saturday. If I can manage getting that hooked up on my own, then ill go to step 2.

I am probably going to hold off on the bandpass subwoofer and amp for that for now to see how the inside cabin sounds running those kappas on a 90w RMS per channel amp. If the Kappa's arent loud enough, ill have a bandpass box built and ill run it off the 700x and ill get a pair of 700s amps for the kappas. Besdies I do have that Bazooka sub for now.

We'll see. ;)

Warlord187
06-12-2002, 11:09 PM
Dude, if you are going to do anything other than the Bazooka, it is HIGHLY recommended that you get an aftermarket head unit. The sound and clarity will be so much better.

DjPiLL
06-12-2002, 11:11 PM
Yeah thats what I figured. I emailed ikesound to get them get me a price. I want a package deal. I would imagine the Bazooka should sound better once it gets plugged directly into the new headunit's Subwoofer outs?

dbaudiopro
06-13-2002, 12:40 AM
Originally posted by DjPiLL
I think the next step would be to overhaul all my inside speakers. Im probably just gonna go with the Infinity Kappas. People that own them seem to like them alot, and they are known for giving a nice crisp sound, which is what im looking for. Im just going to power them using the 700X amp.

I'll be the first to admit that "good sound" is very subjective. Personally I wouldn't consider Inifinity to be "crisp." I find them to be very harsh and inaccurate in their midbass reproduction. But like I said, this is very subjective and that's just my opinion... :)