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    Hey Sir Peva - i have been reading ur posts about replacing a starter. After spending most of yesterday on it , im resigned to removing the motor mount, my question is - to jack up the motor, do i have to remove the passenger side nuts as well to get the motor up 2 inches? - many thanks in advace

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    OK. When the pressure transducer on one of the a.c. lines senses lack of refrigerant, it prohibits the compressor from coming on. You may have already known that. Leaks in these cars are usually in the evaporator - maybe you already know that too. Be sure to put some UV dye in it when you charge it. That way, leaks will be easy to pin down in the future. Once you put dye in it, if it ever needs recharging again, you don't add any more dye (unless the system gets flushed out). If you already have dye in it, the way to tell if the evaporator is leaking is to look for the dye in the end of the condensate tube. If you don't have dye in it, it can be hard to prove. But if you think you smelled leaking 134A in the cabin, then that would be an indication.

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    There is no more over heating. I have lost all the Freon we put in it. A friend of mine is going to check it for leaks today. The compressor did engaged after the fan assembly & Freon was installed. I assume it has a leak. Will know more this evening...it is too hot in Missouri right now to check it...lol Thank you so much for the quick reply. Will let you know what we've found or not found...lol

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    My 1999 chrysler concorde recently over heated, my was blowing hot and at that time I smelled an odor (similiar to sulfur). I since have replaced relays, fuses the whole fan assembly, and freon. I thought it was fixed, it blew cold air and the fans were working properly until today. I turned the a/c on and it blew hot air, no cold at all. Engine light came on and had codes ran, replaced the radiator fan/hi/lo relay. Air still blows hot. Other than a leak could you tell me what this could be. Thanks!

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    Hi peva, I had a quick question for you....I noticed today my a/c seemed to be cutting in and out every now and then...when i ran the test on the ATC head it gives me a code 36

    I looked in the FSM and i didn't see a code 36 and i was wondering if you know what this means..
    Thanks
    Scott

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    Just liked your photo of the cars out under the maple tree. Looks like a happy, married couple!!

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    Peva,Still tryin to get the BCM problem fixed. Dealer says used one wont work. Used part dealer on web says it will. Who do I believe? Crap got me as nervous as a whore in church. Just want to get it fixed. Used,remanufactured,new, which route should I take?

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    I wanted to ask you some questions about replacement LEDs and those new (tricky) duel color LED signal lights. You seem to know more then most of the guys out there about electronics and any advice you can give would be a BIG help.
    Anyway, I wanted to replace all of my tail lights with LEDs and add a string of LEDs in the trunk light bar and that to me seems pretty straight foward install.
    Now for those duel color LED signal lights I have read all kinds of different install methods and so far no one has come up with one straight foward install that to me really works and works well. Any ideas ??

    thanx in advance!!
    Captain

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    please and thank you!
    You responded to my post about my 03 Corde...please if you get a chance look at my latest post about this issue...it COULD BE the Cam pos sensor! Thank you for your time!

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    Concerning your post below, I was wondering how your experience has been with those KOYO 62032RDC3 bearings. My A/C is intermittently slowing/squealing, and I'd like to replace it before it locks up and requires compressor replacement.

    Taken from This Thread
    It takes an industry standard part number 6203 with seals on both sides. You get them from any local bearing supply house.

    The a.c. belt idler pulley bearing has been needing replacing at least every 6 months on my daily driver 2.7 that I drive 400 miles every week (approximately 10,000 miles). I tried pressing in SKF bearings, and they didn't do any better than the NTN brand bearings that come in all pulleys you buy at the auto parts stores.

    What I finally figured out was that the pulley bracket is vibrating and the grease is being forced past the seals over a short period of time by the vibration, the bearings run dry, and it's downhill from there.

    This was discussed on another LH car forum a few months ago. Someone there posted about a special seal that Koyo puts in some of their bearings that is specially designed to block the grease from escaping. The bearing with that special seal is Koyo part number 62032RDC3. I tried my first one 4 months ago, and so far it is still quiet. But I won't know if it lasts any longer than the industry standard bearings and seals until it has been trouble-free for more than 6 months (past November).

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    I'm not an expert on what tire sizes you can use. But there is a web site that you'll find linked - has "miata" in the url - that has a tire calculator so you can determine what tire sizes won't affect your speedomoter and odometer.

    And sorry for the elayed reply - this is the first time I've seen this "Visitor Messages" thing. I wonder if it's new?

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    Good Evening,

    You seem to be the resident Concorde expert and you've got a rocking profile photograph! So I thought you might possibly answer a question of mine, please? :)

    I've got the stock size '16 inch rims and I'm trying to find a wider tire size for the vehicle - do you have any thoughts on what will fit?

    Many thanks!
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