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Hard downshift when stopping

12K views 13 replies 10 participants last post by  GB49 
#1 ·
1995 Intrepid 3.3 Base model
96,656 miles

Just bought the car today and I noticed this. When ever you are coming to a stop, like at a stop light the car will downshift kind of hard. Not soo hard that the whole car jaunts, but hard enough to fell a bump and annoy me. It had an ATF+3 change at 88,981 miles or about a year ago. I'm thinking about taking it to the dealer for an ATF+4 change and a scan of the transmission codes. I did this with my old 94' Intrepid, the ATF+4 seemed to stop the similar downshifting issues. Also, the transmission computer, should I disconnect the battery so the computer can 'reprogram' its self? I did that with a 1994 Plymouth Acclaim I had with the A604 overdrive trans.

Thanks in advance.
 
#4 ·
I had a hard shifting issue with my car a few months after I had it in the dealer to have them change the fluid to ATF 4. I droped the pan myself and found that the trans filter and come loose. After I put in a new filter and refilled the trans myself with AFT 4 the shifting problem went away.
 
#5 ·
thanks for the imput, I'll check the transmission mount in the morning, assuming its not raining.

I also have a friend with a Snapon Scanner that can read the current software, and if its possible to update it with newer software. It can also do a quick learn.

I'll be installing an external transmission cooler soon, so then I'll have the fluid changed with ATF+4.
 
#6 ·
The dealer calls it bump shift.
You can get them to reprogram the computer to eliminate this.

I had it done on my 94 LHS.

These are relatively gutless, heavy cars with a deep first gear.
To make these cars more lively they will downshift to first at about 3 or 4 mph. If you roll through a stop sign you'll be taking off in 1st. Feels nice and snappy.

After the reprogram. You will need to almost stop to get first. Now when you roll through a stop sign to say 2 or 3 mph. You'll be taking off in 2nd. No more bumpshift but you'll understand the reason for the original program.

A torquey car with a relatively close ratio transmission do not have these issues. Mainly because they do not need to use first to adequately accelerate the car.
Anyone who's drove a 440 Mopar knows what I'm talking about.
 
#7 ·
Or a 400 Firebird, 1st gear was useless in that car :D
 
#9 ·
jfsram said:
The dealer calls it bump shift.
You can get them to reprogram the computer to eliminate this.

I had it done on my 94 LHS.

These are relatively gutless, heavy cars with a deep first gear.
To make these cars more lively they will downshift to first at about 3 or 4 mph. If you roll through a stop sign you'll be taking off in 1st. Feels nice and snappy.

After the reprogram. You will need to almost stop to get first. Now when you roll through a stop sign to say 2 or 3 mph. You'll be taking off in 2nd. No more bumpshift but you'll understand the reason for the original program.

A torquey car with a relatively close ratio transmission do not have these issues. Mainly because they do not need to use first to adequately accelerate the car.
Anyone who's drove a 440 Mopar knows what I'm talking about.

my es doesnt downshift to 1st till dead stop. I wonder if they implemented these values in the TCM after they found what was wrong.

Or if autostick is the cultprit. I dont use D very much if at all. unless i have pop cans in the cup holders.

autostick downshifts from 4th at about 15 3rd at about 10 -5 then right after that 2nd and stays. untill dead stop
 
#12 ·
Leeser said:
So if you don't have it "reprogrammed" will it ever develop into anything or will it just continue to be annoying?

edit: Does this all apply to a 98 Concorde?
Keeping in mind that these are electronically controlled transmissions. It's possible it will get worse, but it usually leads to immediate failure, as with any electronic component. There really is no inbetween. It either works or it dosn't. I'm guessing my current Intrepid has the original 1995 software on it, and my old 1994 had the latest software, plus fresh ATF+4.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Just to add to the confusion. I had the bump shift on mine also. Mine turned out to be a bad TCM. Had a bad solider joint on the board. But I had all kinds of other weird problems along with it.
One tip, if the dealer puts the scanner on it and says the pressures are off, don't take it for the real problem.
The dealer and another trans shop that later fixed the problem checked the pressures (shift pressure check is the standard thing they do) and said they looked bad. After they rebuilt my trans, found that was not even the problem and it didn't need it. Turned out it was the TCM.
Probably would not apply to yours, but just wanted to share the info..
If possible I think I would ask a shop to try a replacement TCM if they had one on hand before a rebuild, if the transmission did not have a lot of miles and abuse on it anyway.
A sticky valve pack can also cause shift problems.
 
#14 ·
I had my tranny repaired when the car was still under factory warranty. When I came to a stop and then accelerated the engine would rev but no wheel turn. Then after maybe 2 seconds the car would squeal away as the tranny jerked into motion. I think the car was at or under 30,000 miles at the time. I can’t remember what they did but parts were replaced and the software was upgraded. Only when its freezing cold out and the tranny is still cold does it do this but no where as bad as before the fix....knock on wood.
I'd go to the dealer and see what they can do and also, try to drive normally.
I'm in the habit of very slow acceleration down the road when its cold in an effort to make things last as long as possible. I want to run this car till the wheels fall off but if the drive train goes I'll be forced to junk her...Don’t like to talk about that. :icon_mi_1
I also get the transmission flush thing from the dealer every once in a while. It’s like $100 and I think it has helped.

-GB49
 
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